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Forced Induction Turbo, Supercharger, Methanol, Nitrous |
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02-18-2016, 05:59 PM | #15 |
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Exactly, but if you want a really responsive engine on acceptable hp goals, why change too forged Pistons whit 12.5:1 if the oem piston holds up for the task
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02-18-2016, 06:07 PM | #16 | |
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But that's not on stock Pistons I guess. Personally I don't have to go over 350whp, I think that will do it for me |
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02-18-2016, 06:16 PM | #17 |
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So that seems to me, that my shopping list should be like this.
Rods Bearings Gaskets Head studs Valve springs And maybe oil pump? Are Cosworth offering any blue printed beefed up pumps jet? Like the ones you always included in the EJ builds, don't think it's a bad aide att tracking, but maybe the oil pumps are better att FA? Haven't looked in to that so much. |
02-18-2016, 06:33 PM | #18 |
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Honestly for 350whp ish, I don't think you will need:
Gaskets, head studs, valve springs, and an upgraded oil pump unless you plan to raise the stock redline. If you plan on tracking you MUST HAVE an oil cooler. Our engines run pretty hot stock so with all the added power you need an oil cooler. |
02-18-2016, 07:06 PM | #19 | ||||
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Everything else looks fine. Main Bearings and valvesprings are overkill, but King bearings makes an alternative to OEM if you do decide to split the case. You'll need new rod bearings for the new rods regardless. Quote:
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I also agree that an oil cooler is imperative. Any kit with an air-oil heat exchanger. The coolant-based heat exchangers are massively insufficient for high-power applications. I noticed a clutch is missing form this list. That will be necessary.
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02-18-2016, 08:31 PM | #20 |
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I would replace the stock pistons if I was having work done. Admittedly , I haven't seen anywhere that pistons are a common failure point. Pistons may become the weakest link, if, everything else is upgraded. On the off chance that a piston lets go and destroys all the other engine work, that would be tragic.
P.s. when I do have the motor built, it will most likely be at stock compression or close to Last edited by seito23; 02-18-2016 at 09:12 PM. Reason: compression |
02-19-2016, 02:26 AM | #21 | |
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Going up against 2-3 Porsche Cayman S, Porsche 993 C2, Ford Focus RS, Evo x, imprezas, and so on. But will do my best and then some. Mod list too this date.......... https://www.facebook.com/F.Wernboe/ The Perrin oilcooler is on the car, djust forgot to mention it in the description. I'm also running Agip I cint 5w40 and change oil and filter after each race weekend. The clutch will be upgraded from the exedy stage 1 to somethings better. But valve springs I will change anyway, do it doesn't seem like a bad idea on a motor going FI on high rpms most of the time, so that I don't get floating and break a rocker or valve. |
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02-19-2016, 02:43 AM | #22 |
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Based on what others have said before, it might be worth checking the OEM pistons and smoothing off any sharp edges if there are any as it will help with knock resistance. The same was mentioned by @Matt@Cosworth about aftermarket pistons so I don't see why OEM would be any different. If you have the head off it might be worth looking at the DI injector area for the same thing although I would be cautious about this, I seem to remember Carolina Dyno saying that this was a potential area to increase knock sensitivity,
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02-19-2016, 08:40 AM | #23 |
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If the car is a pure track car, and you don't mind hearing piston slap when it's cold, then forged pistons are fine. If it's a street car and sees cold weather use, the piston slap from forged pistons (until they heat up and expand) could get really annoying. I know a couple people that put in forged pistons and regret the decision.
For your power levels, I would only replace things that you know are failure prone or are single use items (gaskets, studs, etc).
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02-20-2016, 08:42 AM | #24 |
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I'm on the almost same boat.
My list is, Skunk2 rods King's bearings ARP head studs Reimax oil pump gear Main case bolts Gasket set GSC single valve spring kit. One thing I have missed is thr tapered small end of stock rods and matched stock piston pin area. But Skunk2 rods have this shape. So I have to go to the machine shop to match the stock pistons. Last edited by makinen; 02-21-2016 at 06:47 AM. |
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02-20-2016, 06:11 PM | #25 | |
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02-20-2016, 09:59 PM | #26 |
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It makes no sense to use the stock pistons with an aftermarket rod. The pistons fail right around the same HP level the rods do.....
Then there's the problem of fitting the small end of the rod into the stock piston--bad idea to machine them. You'll be hammering on the wrist pin bushing with that end mill during the process. BAD idea. Last year we did a motor for someone and we tried to use the stock pistons only to discover the rods don't fit without a good deal of work. In that case we used CP off the shelf 10.5:1 that don't cost a whole heck of a lot. Driving it after the fact even NA? Not a huge difference in power. Maybe 10-15 hp or so, but with the ability to run crappier gas and much more boost. If you get the high boost pulley with any of the SC kits you'll more than make up for the slight loss of compression, but gain a whole lot more reliability. Stock pistons are hypereutectic and don't expand a whole lot, but they still expand and run tight end gaps. Get hot on track with them and it's bad news. A forged piston with 3.5-4 thousands clearance will do much better on track with a .017-.018 top ring gap, and has zero piston slap hot or cold on the FA20. Every motor we've put in the last few months has run just that, and you'll be hard pressed to tell it isn't stock when you fire it up. |
02-21-2016, 02:28 AM | #27 | |
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02-21-2016, 06:43 AM | #28 | |
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I planned not to exceed the power level that the stock rods failed. I only want to make the big ends kept the shape more than the stock. I've prepared King's bearings also. For the machining of small ends, the stock one also machined as I observed. Here is an example video that machining similar way (don't know my case is the same or not.) |
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