Sheared/Siezed ARP stud (after having 3 stock studs strip)

[TRAKRAVN]

I've had issues with the Muteki nuts on the 12x1.5 pitch Arp studs as well in the past. Now I just use stock nuts and cut off the closed end. I've never had a problem since.

I even tried re-tapping the Muteki nuts that I had and it didn't help.

[JohnJacobsen]

Any problems with the Project Kicks?

[MuseChaser]

Originally Posted by Kostamojen

Well I don't want the lugs to fall off, and its what a couple of actual RL mechanics not in this thread and have experience with ARP studs recommended, so ya...

In my experience, "RL" mechanics are the ones who are most guilty of overtorquing lug nuts, BY FAR. I dread the few times I'm forced to take my car in to a shop where customers aren't allowed to assist or observe (inspections, new tires mounted, mostly). Those guys never use a torque wrench 'cause they're in a hurry to produce (or lazy) and crank those things on way too tight w/ an impact gun set on kill. When I get home, I always loosen then retorque the lugnuts. Sometimes they're own so tight I can barely loosen them.. and that's using a MAC impact wrench and a full sized DeWalt compressor. -Soooo... so much for "RL" mechanics. Do not put anti-seize on studs. Hand-thread and -tighten. Then torque to a reasonable amount (I use 85 ftlbs). Done.

[JohnJacobsen]

All mechanics are not the same. If your shop is using an impact to install your wheels it's time to find a new shop.

My problem came when nuts were half way off, where there should be no torque. I used a torque wrench to install and they were not cross threaded. Like I said before, with new ones I started to have the same problem. It's like the Muteki nuts are just a hair to tight and they gall the threads.

[Bodalenko]

I've driven trucks for over 40 years and have never stripped a wheel nut or cross thread a stud. Then out of the blue I had an issue with two of the OEM studs and cross threading the OEM nuts. No idea why but it resulted in 2 mangled threads. I fixed by buying a 12x1.25 tap and dye set and using them to recut the threads. Worked a treat and now as soon as I feel even a minor roughness while 'hand tightening' I whip out the tap and dye and run them over the stud and through wheel nuts. I replaced the OEM nuts with McGard Spline drive and all seems fine. I still throw the OEM nuts and OEM wheels on when I get a service.

As far as anti seize goes, I have always used grease and wipe the excess off before putting nuts on. May be an old wives tale but the grease apparently keeps the wheel nuts tight, and of course makes removal easier, especially on trucks.

[Sportsguy83]

Originally Posted by JohnJacobsen

Any problems with the Project Kicks?

I have them for over two years, wheels out numerous times and no issues at all.


BTW, I have a quality impact gun that has three speeds, and always start the lugs by hand, put all the way in with the lowest setting of the gun then finish by split beam torque wrench.... No anti-seize, rarely clean with a brush.

Never an issue on multiple cars.