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Engine, Exhaust, Transmission Discuss the FR-S | 86 | BRZ engine, exhaust and drivetrain.

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Old 07-24-2014, 12:53 AM   #15
Jmonty
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Nice write up and review
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Old 12-24-2015, 02:01 AM   #16
xtral
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sorry for reviving this thread, but how did you manage to punch the pin back without damaging the lockout ring ?

thanks
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Old 01-17-2016, 08:24 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by xtral View Post
sorry for reviving this thread, but how did you manage to punch the pin back without damaging the lockout ring ?

thanks
Perhaps he didn't.

I couldn't.

That pin is

I think the channel for the ring is too tight, and I agree with the statements about it not sliding up and down as easily anymore, thats fully greased up to boot.
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Old 01-18-2016, 08:08 AM   #18
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Dude even from the pics, you really can't tell the difference. I guess you'd have to know its there. I would have spent 100$ on something else, or just saved it. And you gave it a pretty bad review, so that would disappoint me to pay money for something that needs extra push pull or whatever to work. That tells me that design is not flawless. Put something in a car it should work better
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Old 01-18-2016, 11:31 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by SPCorBUST View Post
Perhaps he didn't.

I couldn't.

That pin is

I think the channel for the ring is too tight, and I agree with the statements about it not sliding up and down as easily anymore, thats fully greased up to boot.
with the inspiration from another thread.. I bought this tool, and it did perfectly push the pin inside,
Actually with this beauty, we do no longer need the hummer to make the pin out... (with was quite painful)
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Old 01-18-2016, 02:29 PM   #20
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Putting the pin back in is for sure the hardest part of the install by far. Last time I installed one, I thought I lost it, and it was just hiding in the customer's rubber floor mat! What I did to help get it through the reverse lockout was squish the whole pin a little with needle nose pliers. When you're hitting the pin in, put something metal and flat up against the pin to avoid hitting the reverse lockout when it's just about all the way pushed in. I used the wide part of the needle nose pliers, since I had them handy. You could also use a flat piece of plastic or anything similar.

For helping with the movement up and down of the reverse lockout, we put a few drops of Boshield on the shifter, that helps a lot. You can also use a thinner grease or similar lubricant. Hope that helps!
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Old 09-21-2016, 08:22 PM   #21
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So I hate bump an older thread but I would like to share my findings. I just installed the beatrush but the uninstaller of the stocker is all the same and the reinstall of the pin for those that reuse it.

Use the correct tool the first time. My stubborn ass started with things from around there garage, namely a nail and and Allen wrench, which did not work at all. So after an hour I went to hardware store and got a 3/32 pin punch. It's about 6 inches all together but the first 2 inches is 3/32 so you can follow the pin out all the way. Got back from the store and got to work, had it out in less then a minute with the aid of standard hammer.

On the reinstall of the pin, perrin and beatrush reuse the pin so I'll share this part too. Of course your working in reverse for all of it but what I found was the holes didn't line up so getting pin in all the way was difficult. I found that if you work the pin till you get it through the center of the shifter, test it by lifting the lockout to see if it engages correctly. Also at this point the pin was mostly in and I only could just see the tip of the pin. Then once you get the pin seated in the center of the shifter and it engages correctly, put it into 3rd then work the pin in the rest of the way. The pin will go in nice and easy using the punch the rest of the way.

Hope this helps out some people.
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Old 07-17-2018, 07:19 PM   #22
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Fick man... Its not coming out with a 3lb sludge. How cam something so small be THIS difficult?
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