HKS Supercharger owners thread

[HuntingtonFRS]

What's the average rate to pay someone to tune this kit with dyno time?

[Tradewind]

Interesting thread

[Efferalgan]

Update: couple of week ago I finally received my "rehaul kit" for V2. However, it consisted noting but of a SC unit itself. So, I had to borrow traction fluid and filter from another (full) kit (thanks for the owner - he also had a V2 failed and bought a new entire kit to replace the blower). Luckily, after some email exchange HKS agreed to send the missing parts of the advertised "kit" free of charge which is rare good news (if they really do it) from HKS - still appreciate, as I paid $2100 (including shipping from the US to Russia) for the kit.


The car is up and running fine - just as before the SC failure. However, recently (just about 400 km after the new SC was installed), I noticed the following "oil in intake" problem:



Details here:
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=98687

Crawford AOS definitely doesn't work. However, even if so. This looks as a bit too much of blow-by for normally operating system. HKS doesn't even clearly recommend a catch can in the manual... What to blame? Could it be because of the tune (I'm running Delicious Flash&Go 16.50)?

[Andew727]

I had originally thought that it was traction fluid because there was a drip on the bottom of the compressor and i had an engine failure on top of it, so i was quick to point fingers and not completely look at what was going on. i had a lot of blow by, but not nearly as much as i see in your set up. i was not running a catch can but i am throwing one on this time. a TRD catch can.

i have decided not to change up the piping on my v1 kit yet, parts became too expensive and relocating the maf was going to be a headache. i am still doing a full engine build, and i will be boring the restrictor to hks specs, and running a 95mm pulley this time.

[Scott@HKSUSA]

Originally Posted by Efferalgan

HKS doesn't even clearly recommend a catch can in the manual... What to blame?

We've been running 12-13 psi with our in-house car with stock pcv (no catch can) and our inlet pipe, throttle body, and blow-by hose is dry as a bone. Your post made me curious so I just pulled it off to double-check.

Our in-house car has ~21,000 miles on it now and it has been boosted for ~20,982 of them with the v1, v2, and now the v3 kit. And I'm not trying to make a case for or against catch cans, just simply stating that our car has never run one and we've never had a oil or blow-by issue.

How many miles are on your engine? How many of those have been under boost? And lastly, have you done a compression / leakdown test lately?

[Andew727]

Originally Posted by Scott@HKSUSA

We've been running 12-13 psi with our in-house car with stock pcv (no catch can) and our inlet pipe, throttle body, and blow-by hose is dry as a bone. Your post made me curious so I just pulled it off to double-check.

Our in-house car has ~21,000 miles on it now and it has been boosted for ~20,982 of them with the v1, v2, and now the v3 kit. And I'm not trying to make a case for or against catch cans, just simply stating that our car has never run one and we've never had a oil or blow-by issue.

How many miles are on your engine? How many of those have been under boost? And lastly, have you done a compression / leakdown test lately?

i had the compressor on for about 2,000 miles when we snapped a valve spring, stuck an intake valve open, something (probably the retainer) dropped into the cylinder and came back out without doing much damage to the piston. none of my blow by reached the intake manifold though, just a little gummy oil directly down the compressed air hot pipe leading to the intercooler. intercooler wasnt contaminated either.

the engine is cracked open already, doing a full build. i was initially going to change up the piping, enlarge the intercooler and relocate the compressor but my budget didnt allow for it.

i had minimal oil/fuel vapor blow by but it was gummy so i wanted to point fingers and blame the compressor. i have a TRD catch can that ill throw on to see if it reduces the mess. i would also like to fully remove the resrtictor on the compressor when i add this smaller pulley to the mix finally. is this recommended with a built engine on e85?

i do not want to void my compressor warranty. i went with cosworth head gaskets that will lower compression .08-1.0 also.

[Efferalgan]

Originally Posted by Scott@HKSUSA

We've been running 12-13 psi with our in-house car with stock pcv (no catch can) and our inlet pipe, throttle body, and blow-by hose is dry as a bone. Your post made me curious so I just pulled it off to double-check.

Our in-house car has ~21,000 miles on it now and it has been boosted for ~20,982 of them with the v1, v2, and now the v3 kit. And I'm not trying to make a case for or against catch cans, just simply stating that our car has never run one and we've never had a oil or blow-by issue.

How many miles are on your engine? How many of those have been under boost? And lastly, have you done a compression / leakdown test lately?

I'm also curious since this mess appeared just less than 300 miles after the new blower was installed. I'll need to make some more observations before saying that it's a consistent problem rather than a one-off but massive oil spit for whatever reason. The only confirmed fact is that the AOS doesn't work, otherwise it would serve its purpose and prevent this mess.

The engine is 25500 km of which about 8000 km boosted (up to 7500km on the first SC and just 500 on the replacement). Compression was checked less than 1000 miles ago - OK. Never needed to top up any oil and now it's still at top mark. What exactly is the leakdown test that you suggested?

I really need a good catch can which in fact catches oil. Then it should be easier to define whether there is a real oil problem, how big is it and what is the cause...

[Scott@HKSUSA]

A leakdown test can help determine A) if there is cylinder leakage and B) where the leak is coming from.

Quick Google search - found decent article on how and why:
http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/engine/...akdown-tester/

Basically, worn rings can and will seal good enough to produce a decent compression test result, making you think everything is OK. A leakdown test will confirm good cylinder sealing or reveal a leak.

[Andew727]

Originally Posted by Scott@HKSUSA

A leakdown test can help determine A) if there is cylinder leakage and B) where the leak is coming from.

Quick Google search - found decent article on how and why:
http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/engine/...akdown-tester/

Basically, worn rings can and will seal good enough to produce a decent compression test result, making you think everything is OK. A leakdown test will confirm good cylinder sealing or reveal a leak.

yes scott, i understand how they work and how to perform them, but i skipped that step because i am replacing pistons, rings, rods, bearings ect while i have the engine cracked in half already. i had a lot of fine metallic contamination in my oil samples so i went with my rule to buy once and cry once. plus its really annoying to perform a leakdown/compression test while the engine is in this car.

i would recomend to anyone running this kit or FI in general to buy beefier valve springs for sure. they a brittle and can be fully dpressed with my fingers

****whoops, sorry scott, i thought that post was targeted towards me.****

but scott if you could answer my question about the restrictor removal or boring would be awesome. i do not want to void my compressor warranty.

[Scott@HKSUSA]

Andew727 - No worries. Your compressor warranty won't be affected by your decision on the restrictor. If there is a manufacturing defect with the blower itself, you're covered.

[empower-auto]

Originally Posted by Scott@HKSUSA

Andew727 - No worries. Your compressor warranty won't be affected by your decision on the restrictor. If there is a manufacturing defect with the blower itself, you're covered.

Scott is there somewhere or someone you could point me to that could give me some better info regarding modifications to the restrictor and what to expect (roughly) and different bore or totally removed?

I am running a V2 kit at 43mm bore restrictor with only aftermarket intake and exhaust from the midpipe back.

9.25 psi is my consistent peak boost (surprisingly consistent) at max RPM and I'm looking to take the next step. At an altitude of around 1400ft. it made 248whp and around 190ft.lb torque on a tune that was not pushing boundaries. E10 94 Octane

[Andew727]

Originally Posted by empower-auto

Scott is there somewhere or someone you could point me to that could give me some better info regarding modifications to the restrictor and what to expect (roughly) and different bore or totally removed?

I am running a V2 kit at 43mm bore restrictor with only aftermarket intake and exhaust from the midpipe back.

9.25 psi is my consistent peak boost (surprisingly consistent) at max RPM and I'm looking to take the next step. At an altitude of around 1400ft. it made 248whp and around 190ft.lb torque on a tune that was not pushing boundaries. E10 94 Octane

if you dont plan to add fuel mods to support more air then im sure hks's design was most effective with the restrictor, otherwise they wouldnt use it.

[Scott@HKSUSA]

Originally Posted by empower-auto

Scott is there somewhere or someone you could point me to that could give me some better info regarding modifications to the restrictor and what to expect (roughly) and different bore or totally removed?

I am running a V2 kit at 43mm bore restrictor with only aftermarket intake and exhaust from the midpipe back.

9.25 psi is my consistent peak boost (surprisingly consistent) at max RPM and I'm looking to take the next step. At an altitude of around 1400ft. it made 248whp and around 190ft.lb torque on a tune that was not pushing boundaries. E10 94 Octane

HKS doesn't have anything published specific to the FR-S s/c kits, but they do have this chart showing boost, hp, and tq with various restrictor diameters:
http://www.hks-power.co.jp/en/produc...estrictor.html

Flow increases with a square curve and can be interpolated by an area ratio so even without knowing an actual airflow value, we can calculate (R2xPi=area2):

43mm x .5 = 21.5mm x 21.5 x 3.14159 = 1452.19mm2
45mm x .5 = 22.5mm x 22.5 x 3.14159 = 1590.43mm2

1590.43/1452.19 = 1.095 (9.5% flow increase)

I just picked 45mm as an example to run through, but based on the % you want to increase, you should be able to calculate the restrictor area (diameter) you'll need from there.

And I guess I should qualify - increasing flow into the supercharger by 9.5% won't increase boost pressure by 9.5% because airflow across the intake valves is on its own square curve. But at least this will give you reference for what changes to expect.

[Scracho]

Really interested in this kit having been a fan of HKS with my previous cars (RX-7's, WRX, STI). Having been S/C before on my FRS with a competitors kit using a Rotrex unit, I'm somewhat hesitant in the "long term" reliability of the HKS blower itself. It appears that everything else (piping, intercooler, etc) is well engineered and made from quality materials, but the actual S/C unit is questionable.

@Scott@HKSUSA - How does this unit compare to the track proven, reliable Rotrex units and why should I consider this kit over another?