Throw-out bearing

[YamahaR86]

Originally Posted by thambu19

I would like to hear from people who live in the warmer regions about any TOB issues they had. Is this a problem only for those in the snowbelt?

Guess you could say I live in a warmer region (Florida).

I had this issue pop up on me at 19k miles. Took me 3 days to keep taking my car to the dealer because the support tech they kept calling didn't want to open it up until it was a last resort (they sprayed lubricant on the outside area). I believe because they said it happened on a 2014 model and they replaced it but the noise still persisted.

Finally opened it up and they said might as well get a new part in there since it's open. The people there said there were signs of a little bit of rust on the TOB. I got my car back, immediately felt the clutch was "lighter" or easier to push down. Noise went away and haven't heard it since (at 22k miles now).

[thambu19]

@strat61caster
Thank you.

Mine does not make any noise yet but I only have 7500miles on the car. If there is something that could make the TOB last longer (before the squeal even starts) I would love to know.

I have already reduced my clutch pedal throw to reduce the force on the TOB when my pedal is all the way down at the floor. But from what I read this is a lubrication issue/design issue and it is only a matter of time

[Nickosport]

I get my car back from the dealer tomorrow. They were initially going to do the TOB and fork. For whatever reason, they did an entire clutch assembly after inspection of the clutch. Service rep said he'd give me more info when I pick up the car tomorrow morning. Both under warranty - MY2015 w/ 22.5kmi. I'll update this tomorrow when I know more. Ill ask him if I can see the old clutch as well, ill try to take pictures if they let me.

[stevesnj]

They should let you take pics, it's your clutch, you bought it..lol

[strat61caster]

Originally Posted by thambu19

@strat61caster
Thank you.

Mine does not make any noise yet but I only have 7500miles on the car. If there is something that could make the TOB last longer (before the squeal even starts) I would love to know.

I have already reduced my clutch pedal throw to reduce the force on the TOB when my pedal is all the way down at the floor. But from what I read this is a lubrication issue/design issue and it is only a matter of time

Not sure if any adjustment will make a difference, the only thing that might is minimizing the amount of time your clutch is disengaged (terminology varies wildly here, what I mean is you want to minimize your time with your foot depressing the clutch pedal, so at a long stop light it is preferred that you shift into neutral and have your foot completely off the pedal until you are ready to go).

This isn't guaranteed to be an issue, while there are a lot of posts freaking out about it now I would bet that the number of people actually affected are very low, both now and in the future. While I do post that I have the noise it could very well be deemed 'loud but normal' and cause me no problems for tens of thousands of miles to come. This wouldn't be the first issue to pop up with hundreds of 'the sky is falling the car is terrible Toyobaru screwed us' and then a year later there's not even 100 publicly confirmed instances (out of tens of thousands if not hundreds of thousands of units) and it's only remembered by a few armchair quarterbacks who are still around that were posting b.s. at the time (like me now).

[thambu19]

I see a lot of people having TOB squeals and the dealer replacing the TOB, Fork and sometimes the clutch too. I also saw a few posts where the TOB melted completely. I am trying to understand if they are related or completely separate. What I mean is if it is just a squeal in cold start I can live with it as long as it does not blow up.
Those whose TOB actually melted/disintegrated, did you have any other symptom other than the squeal? Did you have the squeal at all?

[Tcoat]

Originally Posted by strat61caster

One of the most valuable lessons learned in college: More lube.

.

Either you were doing things wrong or went to an all boys collage.

[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by Tcoat

I did think of that way back in the beginning and quite honestly that was what was sort of baffling me. It wasn't until I came across the info on the broken ones that I felt comfortable enough to present my theory. If it is pushing that evenly and self centering then there is no way that one side should crack and break and the other side show no signs of issues. The ball pivot can certainly take up some of the slack but the fork is still firmly attached at both the top and bottom so any twist could get transferred through the body and into the bearing.

The fork isn't firmly attached anywhere. there's a clip that keeps it in place where the 2 feet make contact with the TOB but top and bottom are opposed spherical joints. They can get away with a stamped part because it was specifically designed to be forgiving.

What it can't do is hold up to being forced if the TOB binds hard on the snout. It looks like that's exactly what happened with the busted fork in the picture.

[Phantobe]

Originally Posted by Tcoat

Either you were doing things wrong or went to an all boys collage.

An all boys college and lube I can only think of about two things lol. One is very different from the other.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

[Tcoat]

Originally Posted by Ultramaroon

The fork isn't firmly attached anywhere. there's a clip that keeps it in place where the 2 feet make contact with the TOB but top and bottom are opposed spherical joints. They can get away with a stamped part because it was specifically designed to be forgiving.

What it can't do is hold up to being forced if the TOB binds hard on the snout. It looks like that's exactly what happened with the busted fork in the picture.

Well I am glad I presented as a theory not as fact!

[track junkie]

Anyone have or seen this Technical service bulletin from Subaru?
12-190-15R, Oct. 30, 2015, "Elimination of Creaking Sound from Clutch Pedal Assembly."

"This BRZ bulletin provides a procedure to address customer concerns of a creaking sound heard when operating the clutch pedal. The cause of the sound has been identified as a very slight amount of movement between the 2 layers of metal (circled in yellow) which form the specific clutch and brake pedal assembly mounting bracket shown in the illustration and photos."

I am going to ask my dealer to take a look at my car regarding this TSB.

[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by track junkie

Anyone have or seen this Technical service bulletin from Subaru?
12-190-15R, Oct. 30, 2015, "Elimination of Creaking Sound from Clutch Pedal Assembly."

"This BRZ bulletin provides a procedure to address customer concerns of a creaking sound heard when operating the clutch pedal. The cause of the sound has been identified as a very slight amount of movement between the 2 layers of metal (circled in yellow) which form the specific clutch and brake pedal assembly mounting bracket shown in the illustration and photos."

I am going to ask my dealer to take a look at my car regarding this TSB.

IIRC, that's a different issue. It's more like a click. @Aztec and I tinkered with his but it just returned after a few days.

[strat61caster]

Originally Posted by Tcoat

Either you were doing things wrong or went to an all boys collage.

Eww gross, it was in machine shop class thank you very much.


*also sexy times with all genders, orifices, toys, and appendages is improved with extra lubrication

#notthatthere'sanythingwrongwiththat

[Packofcrows]

i've found out that if you cant smoothly shift 1-2nd and 2nd to 3rd, IT MAY be due to TOB. Sometimes its visible...well felt when accelerating at higher speeds.

IMO if you have odd sounds, clutch engages weird...meaning it feels off or you cant smoothly shift 1-3 gears softly, it may be reason to believe TOB is cause.