What should i expect running 18x10?

[Super Dave]

Originally Posted by fumanchu1

If you know someone who is running this exact setup than why would you ask your question? you obviously have your answer if you know exactly what was needed to get them to fit, if you haven't ridden in his car yet ask him to do so and voila you have your answer.

#1 im deployed and on the other side of the world of said person....
#2 I figured while I was bored at work I would see if anyone else had any insight on how this setup would handle/feel. not so much fitment

[Pat]

Originally Posted by Super Dave

Sarcasm aside this is actually the stuff I was looking for... I can understand the fact that it will ride rougher, but what makes it have worse steering feel? and will it honestly be that significantly slower?

Some would notice the worse acceleration. Others may not. I know I would.
The larger contact patch in front will decrease steering feel.

[Super Dave]

Originally Posted by Pat

Some would notice the worse acceleration. Others may not. I know I would.
The larger contact patch in front will decrease steering feel.

pretty good to know. I was hoping since these wheels are pretty light I would see decreased negative effect from the bigger contact patch. when all said and done they should weigh less or right about the same as the stock wheels

[Pat]

Originally Posted by Super Dave

pretty good to know. I was hoping since these wheels are pretty light I would see decreased negative effect from the bigger contact patch. when all said and done they should weigh less or right about the same as the stock wheels

It's about contact patch more than weight.

[fumanchu1]

Originally Posted by Super Dave

#1 im deployed and on the other side of the world of said person....
#2 I figured while I was bored at work I would see if anyone else had any insight on how this setup would handle/feel. not so much fitment

Oh well that makes sense lol.

[BobBRZ]

Don't forget about unsprung weight. That will affect the ability of your suspension to respond to any road imperfections. It will take a greater upwards force (a bump) to make the suspension react since it has to fight the weight of the wheel plus tire to move upwards. A lighter wheel + tire combo will make the suspension feel much more supple and responsive. The stiff coil overs and low profile tires will also contribute to a harsh ride.

[NLSP]

To me, the car feels less agile went I went from stock to 17x9, but feels more stable at high speeds. Steering will also feel heavier (whether that's good or bad depends on the person; I like it). Sometimes I think about switching to a 17x8 setup to get some agility back...

[mav1178]

If you have enough camber dialed in (at least -2 each corner), you will not rub in the rear.

The front may come close to the brake hardline bracket.

As for poke, even 9" wide wheels will look like they "poke" on the bottom, even with a high offset. That's up to you to decide what is good or bad.

Mileage and ride quality will vary.

-alex

[Sportsguy83]

The rub will depend on how low and camber angles of the car.

[HatchirokuV2.0]

Originally Posted by Super Dave

As the title states I bought a set of wheels that are 18x10 along with HKS coils to fit these wheels in there. Im planning on running 255 all the way around.... so realistically what should I expect running this wide of a wheel/tire? I know this is wayyy too much wheel for stock power but in all honesty im more so planning for FI in the future. Am I going to hate how the car feels now? Sorry if this seems like a really really dumb question!

With 18x10 +40, on 255/40 or 255/35, expect the front to poke out about 1MM. Rear will barely clear. A really good roll and pull will fix it, but be careful being as your side-marker is slap in-between the bumper and quarter. Heat those panels up like hell, too! The softer the paint and the more hot the metal is... the farther you can roll/pull.

[mav1178]

Originally Posted by HatchirokuV2.0

With 18x10 +40, on 255/40 or 255/35, expect the front to poke out about 1MM. Rear will barely clear. A really good roll and pull will fix it, but be careful being as your side-marker is slap in-between the bumper and quarter. Heat those panels up like hell, too! The softer the paint and the more hot the metal is... the farther you can roll/pull.

Above is completely relevant or unnecessary, depending on the alignment specs.

And what is ... "poke"? What is your reference point? 1mm from what?

-alex

[Jolt182]

My friend runs 18x10 +40 on 255s. He rubbed a bit in the rear. just the plastic tab on hard turns. The tab wore down fast and doesnt rub anymore. We have since been out for some AutoX fun and he didnt seem to have any rubbing going on. Provided he is running negative camber though. I run 18x9.5 +40 on 255s and havent rubbed at all fortunately. That .5 inches makes a big difference lol

[Super Dave]

Originally Posted by Jolt182

My friend runs 18x10 +40 on 255s. He rubbed a bit in the rear. just the plastic tab on hard turns. The tab wore down fast and doesnt rub anymore. We have since been out for some AutoX fun and he didnt seem to have any rubbing going on. Provided he is running negative camber though. I run 18x9.5 +40 on 255s and havent rubbed at all fortunately. That .5 inches makes a big difference lol

Do you know how much camber he is running by any chance?

[HatchirokuV2.0]

Originally Posted by mav1178

Above is completely relevant or unnecessary, depending on the alignment specs.

And what is ... "poke"? What is your reference point? 1mm from what?

-alex

Poke is how far the wheel is going to sit outside of the fender, i.e. scrubbing and rubbing. Like for example... Someone running 15x10's on a stock honda with no fender pulling/rubbing and no widebody on a stock suspension. They sit way outside of the fenders.