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10-30-2015, 03:17 PM | #15 | |
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10-30-2015, 03:22 PM | #16 |
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A damaged throwout bearing could definitely prevent the clutch from engaging/disengaging properly. If the clutch wont engage or disengage right, then the clutch will slip - hotspotting the flywheel. Ask the inspector how he knows that the flywheel was hotspotted before the TO bearing failure. I guarantee you he wont have an answer for that - there is no way to determine which happened first.
On another note - put the car in neutral at stoplights if you don't already. That will save the TO bearing.
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10-30-2015, 03:28 PM | #17 | |
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10-30-2015, 03:30 PM | #18 | |
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10-30-2015, 05:02 PM | #20 | |
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I couldn't tell you I've only driven 1-2k km on the car bought it and it started doing it on the drive back(6hr drive). Either it was just defect, either it didn't like the long drive or Dan rode the clutch lol |
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10-30-2015, 05:07 PM | #21 | |
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10-31-2015, 11:10 AM | #22 |
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I don't know the exact warranty stipulation on the TOB but here's info on warranty issues.
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=96221 Here's the 2013 Warranty info on the transmission and dispute process
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10-31-2015, 11:10 AM | #23 | |
...Just add nauseum
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Ah. You didn't mention that before or I didn't see it. Yes, a stiffer clutch will increase throw out bearing wear. All I was saying is increased horsepower alone will not increase throwout bearing wear.
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-Spartarus Last edited by Spartarus; 10-31-2015 at 12:11 PM. |
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10-31-2015, 11:28 AM | #24 |
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This forum is flooding with this throw out bearing issue. Should just show Toyota corporate these threads, maybe they will wake up.
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10-31-2015, 12:00 PM | #25 | ||||
...Just add nauseum
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Your car is a wear part. The whole car. Sh*t wears out. SOMETHING has to wear out first. If it wasn't this it'd be something else. Just be thankful it isn't a Kia Rio and the "wear part" in question isn't the timing belt snapping before the maintenance interval on an interference engine. These bearings seem to consistently wear out between 50k and 70k depending on clutch usage and technique, but many people have gone way over that without problems. This almost always sounds operator-induced. The clutch inspection interval is 15,000 miles. The wear on the bearing will most likely be audible in a test several thousand miles before it goes out. Almost all the users with the problem have reported driving the car with a strange/bad noise coming from the clutch. The ones who didn't report it probably should have (didn't notice or didn't correlate a bad noise to a mechanical issue). Correct maintenance means by the time you hit 60K the clutch has been inspected 4 times. Quote:
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No. It can't, it didn't, and it won't. On cars with a hydraulic TOB where the slave cylinder and TOB are combined, that might be true under very specific conditions, but in this car, with a clutch fork, that just isn't possible. You could replace the TOB with a flat metal donut and the clutch would work perfectly (until friction melted the clutch fingers... It wouldn't work for very long.). The fingers would eventually be damaged and the clutch would howl like a banshee when you pressed it, but it would work just fine.
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-Spartarus Last edited by Spartarus; 10-31-2015 at 12:22 PM. |
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10-31-2015, 12:31 PM | #26 | |
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10-31-2015, 04:06 PM | #27 |
...Just add nauseum
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I'll concede it's possible... but it there would have to be a lubrication issue as well. That or you'd have to drive on a bad bearing for quite a while, and even then. You would definitely feel it in the pedal, and hear the bearing screaming... the rotating part doesn't touch the snout. To score the aluminum, you would need a motherf*cker of a side load in transit. I'll admit a bad bearing and lack of lube could cause that much sideloading, but at that point you're driving on a component that is positively identifiable as broken.
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-Spartarus Last edited by Spartarus; 10-31-2015 at 04:26 PM. |
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10-31-2015, 04:34 PM | #28 |
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Google it. You'll see no shortage of image results for shredded Subaru transmission snouts.
The bearing goes bad, causing the sleeve to spin on the shaft, which scores it all to hell. I'm not sure if this is a Subaru-only thing, or just something that happens a lot more often on Subarus than other cars. Here's the google image results for 'Subaru transmission snout' https://www.google.com/search?q=suba...ih=661&dpr=1.5 Edit: I have a spare transmission for my Miata in the garage and I went out and took a look at it. The Miata transmission has the snout as a separate piece that is bolted onto the trans housing. It looks like Subaru transmissions have the snout molded into the housing, which both makes the snout weaker and also introduces a split line running lengthwise on the snout. The Miata snout is one piece with no split line. I haven't pulled the transmission out of my FR-S yet, but I wouldn't be surprised if the transmission uses a Subaru-style housing. If so, prepare for throw out bearing problems or invest in one of the snout sleeves. -Justin
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Last edited by Justin.b; 10-31-2015 at 04:55 PM. |
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