SCCA Solo C Street Discussion

[Briankbot]

Originally Posted by solort

Is the largest bar setup for CS the TRD rear (and sell the front) and the Whiteline 22mm adjustable (for good balance)?

Some of the fastest guys out there are definitely using this or a very similar setup.

Originally Posted by Biggins

The car I drove recently had the Hotchkis 25mm front bar. It was pushier than what I have on my car now (19mm), but we were both pretty quick on a slalom/transition intensive course. I like my car pretty loose, so when I add the rear bar and springs, I'm going to at least try an event with the 19mm on the stiffer setting. I suspect I'll end up putting the TRD bar on the front after some testing. I don't think you will have any problems with a 22mm bar though.

Keep in mind the Hotchkis bar is hollow so comparing it to a 22mm solid is apples and oranges going by size alone. If I remember correctly the 25.4mm Hotchkis hollow bar is probably similar to some of the 22mm solids out there in terms of spring rate. But don't quote me because I could be wrong...

[renfield90]

I drove an STX car recently, and that's probably where my car is headed. Any interest in my full replacement Konis wrapped in TRD springs? Only ~7000 miles on them, most of which was driving to Lincoln and back twice.

[SVLTE]

Originally Posted by renfield90

I drove an STX car recently, and that's probably where my car is headed. Any interest in my full replacement Konis wrapped in TRD springs? Only ~7000 miles on them, most of which was driving to Lincoln and back twice.

Any more detailed thoughts on the comparison between cars? Been thinking about doing this myself since it would be way more fun for HPDE's, but I'd lose any local class competition moving to STX.

[renfield90]

A well setup STX car drives like a dream. No torque dip, noticeably more power, and handling-wise the car has no bad manners - it's razor sharp in a slalom and there's so much more stick in the sweepers.

The downside to STX is you have many more knobs to turn, which means a poorly setup STX car can drive worse than in CS form. It's also more expensive and less streetable due to ride height and spring rate, and there's talk that you will eventually snap axles.

I've also got wheels and sway bars for sale, though I probably have a local buyer for the bars.

[renfield90]

A well setup STX car drives like a dream. No torque dip, noticeably more power, and handling-wise the car has no bad manners - it's razor sharp in a slalom and there's so much more stick in the sweepers.

The downside to STX is you have many more knobs to turn, which means a poorly setup STX car can drive worse than in CS form. It's also more expensive and less streetable due to ride height and spring rate, and there's talk that you will eventually snap axles.

I've also got wheels and sway bars for sale, though I probably have a local buyer for the bars.

[ryan t]

has anyone been able to wiggle the rear subframe around or anything else to even up rear camber? im 2.25lr and 3rr. wish i could even that out

[justinco]

Originally Posted by ryan t

has anyone been able to wiggle the rear subframe around or anything else to even up rear camber? im 2.25lr and 3rr. wish i could even that out

Was the car aligned with weight in the drivers seat? If not, then this is pretty normal, to account for driver weight when the car lowers a bit more after you sit in it (and the -camber increases on that side).

Usually if the setup is done by someone who knows what they are doing, they will ask you your weight and put sandbags or something in the driver seat when they are aligning the car.

Also, you got that much rear camber on a stock class prepped car?

[ryan t]

Originally Posted by justinco

Was the car aligned with weight in the drivers seat? If not, then this is pretty normal, to account for driver weight when the car lowers a bit more after you sit in it (and the -camber increases on that side).

Usually if the setup is done by someone who knows what they are doing, they will ask you your weight and put sandbags or something in the driver seat when they are aligning the car.

Also, you got that much rear camber on a stock class prepped car?

trd springs gave that rear camber. ill measure it again with weight in the seat and see how much it changes

[TMF]

If it doesn't even out, it is pretty tough to make any significant change. I recall that my alignment guy has tried on my past subies with the same suspension design to loosen, wiggle, etc, and he maybe got a tenth or two of a degree...

[justinco]

Originally Posted by ryan t

trd springs gave that rear camber. ill measure it again with weight in the seat and see how much it changes

Interesting, that seems odd that you would get that much camber from just adding the springs (lowering a tad) but not too familiar with the setup...

My STX car has -3* in the rear with adjustable LCA's and suspension.

[simpleisbest]

My guess is that ryan t is using a home camber gauge.

DIY home camber gauges are rarely accurate and need a truly flat surface to be somewhat precise. DIY camber gauges are very useful to measure the amount of change when tweaking your alignment.

In my opinion, you shouldn't use a DIY camber gauge to measure how much actual camber you have. You should use it to measure how much your camber changed (ie, after installing springs or camber bolts).

YMMV.

[ryan t]

Originally Posted by simpleisbest

My guess is that ryan t is using a home camber gauge.

DIY home camber gauges are rarely accurate and need a truly flat surface to be somewhat precise. DIY camber gauges are very useful to measure the amount of change when tweaking your alignment.

In my opinion, you shouldn't use a DIY camber gauge to measure how much actual camber you have. You should use it to measure how much your camber changed (ie, after installing springs or camber bolts).

YMMV.

Its a longacre camber guage on a flat leveled floor. Ive used it for years as i used to race circle track. Those cars had solid rear axle and you almost sat on it so im learning the camber gain in this independent rear end.

[simpleisbest]

Originally Posted by ryan t

Its a longacre camber guage on a flat leveled floor. Ive used it for years as i used to race circle track. Those cars had solid rear axle and you almost sat on it so im learning the camber gain in this independent rear end.

That's a great home set up! I'm just saying your 0.75 difference in front and rear camber is probably pretty accurate. Your measured values of -2.25 and -3.0 are likely not. The suspension geometry does not gain that much neg camber from lowering springs as you suggest.

[redlined600]

Originally Posted by ryan t

has anyone been able to wiggle the rear subframe around or anything else to even up rear camber? im 2.25lr and 3rr. wish i could even that out

Both lower and upper arms are connected to the subframe so shifting it should have no effect.