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10-01-2015, 05:45 AM | #15 | |
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If you have the little extra money to spare, those get my vote as a viable fix to the lack of OG Whiteline pieces. But don't know how many they will be making
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10-01-2015, 12:38 PM | #16 | |
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10-01-2015, 01:04 PM | #17 |
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I went with Racer-X but Velox is definitely the better option if you are looking to save weight.
I like that both allow you to choose the type of rod end, so you can't go wrong with either one. Here's a shot of mine: |
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10-02-2015, 11:48 AM | #18 |
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They had some pretty massive production problems, We managed to get a few in right before they stopped shipping them but they went pretty quickly.
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10-02-2015, 12:20 PM | #19 |
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In the rear? How's that work with the multilink setup? A link or some pics would be great, I wasn't aware of this.
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10-02-2015, 12:40 PM | #20 | |
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I'd take a picture of mine, but it's raining like crazy and I'm lazy. But all you'd see is slightly different looking bolt in the end of the stock lower control arm. Everyone and their dog rebrands the spc/whiteline style bolts. Here's amazons lowest price for them. You can check amazon, they have them for as little as $11 with free shipping. Or if you'd rather chevy cobalts came with 12mm strut bolts. I'm guessing chevy would sell crash bolts for the cobalt. |
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10-02-2015, 01:43 PM | #21 | |
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I was under the impression that bolts only work for the front struts, the rears don't have holes that are reliable for using undersized or eccentric bolts to relocate, I can't seem to find what you suggest, please post a link and let this be a monument to my stupidity (I would have bought them 10 months ago to even out the rear if they were under $50). Install video, pics, anything. All I can find are eccentric bushings for the rear well over $100. http://www.ft86speedfactory.com/whit...l#.Vg69r3pVhBc Edit: pics of the OE setup, it makes sense that it can be done as I know toe can affect camber there with the three mounting points affecting each other, I just missed the memo on a specific solution if one exists, seems to be scarce, my google fu is usually not so lacking. Last edited by strat61caster; 10-02-2015 at 01:59 PM. |
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10-02-2015, 02:15 PM | #22 | |
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This is how mine look. It's pretty boring right. That bolt in the left side is an eccentric bolt. The toe adjustment is no different that it would be with any after market control arms. I can't imagine how that hole couldn't take the mounting point being a couple mm out of position, or any other reason not to take this route. I have a set of the bushings you posted, but I don't have them installed, they just weren't worth the hassle. |
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10-02-2015, 02:20 PM | #23 | |
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Glad to see it's working out for you and I learned something today. |
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10-22-2015, 03:07 PM | #24 | |||
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10-22-2015, 05:38 PM | #25 | |
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10-22-2015, 06:39 PM | #26 | |
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For my personal needs, I just need 0.5, but don't mind being able to adjust for more, so might go with the Whitelines. YMMV |
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10-27-2015, 10:41 PM | #27 |
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I considered Whitelines, went with SPL. Now reading this thread I'm really glad I did. The SPL were easy to adjust enough for a noob to drive to the shop for alignment and they do actually exist.
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10-28-2015, 11:36 AM | #28 |
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I was talking to a vendor last month and they said that the Whitelines, along with many other manufacturers with similar designs were seeing high failure rates. The bolt that is used to adjust the length of the control arm is where the failure usually occurred, just shearing off.
The vendor also told me that the only LCA that they hadn't had any major issues with was the SPC. Makes sense then that Whiteline has decided to essentially copy the SPC design. I ended up going with the SPC and I'm very happy with them, my only complaint is lack of colour... |
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