DIY - Swap clutch slave cylinder and hydraulic line for improved feel and control

[ck-GT86]

Originally Posted by steve99

If your new clutch and flywheel assembly is significantly lighter than the original unit it can cause issues with idling as the ecu software detects abnormal changes in idle speeds and trys to compensate.

lighter clutch flywheels can also cause difficulty in initiial takeoff as less stored energy in lighter components so you have to use more rpm to takeoff, also if clutch has more "bite".

you could try adjusting the pi/di tables to run full DI up to 0.3 engine loads and bump your idle to 750 if not already done.

running full DI at idle seems to allow ecu to compensate quicker

also try removing the weird negitive intake cam advance settings in the intake avcs tables at low rpm/load they seems to be for emmissions only

see tune tweaks thread

I spoke too soon, the car still dies when the HVAC or lights are on. Must be the flywheel, i got the Southbend Stage 2 with steel flywheel. Oh well, will try having my tuner raise the idle.

Thanks @Ultramaroon and @steve99

[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by ck-GT86

I spoke too soon, the car still dies when the HVAC or lights are on. Must be the flywheel, i got the Southbend Stage 2 with steel flywheel. Oh well, will try having my tuner raise the idle.

Thanks @Ultramaroon and @steve99

Light flywheel?

Kind of an important detail. ...for the record.

[RobertPaulson]

so i had the pleasure of trying Ultramaroons car out yesterday at a local meet. first impressions just trying to start the car.

*car is off and i push in clutch*
"is this really all the motion *repeats* omg it is and ... its ... nothing, like on and off."
*starts laughing and looking at ultra*,
me to ultra: "is this really it? *he nods* ok don't laugh if i stall"
ultra: "you won't stall"
*starts car and starts rolling*
"omg this is soooo nice"
*drives for about 10 feet and looks at ultra*
"i'm sold"
*backs car into someone elses spot who had left for the exhaust showoff because that's how i roll*


so needless to say, i'll be ordering parts shortly and paying my buddy ultra a visit for some wrench time on my car and to share some laughs because THIS IS HOW THE CLUTCH SHOULD FEEL

[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by RobertPaulson

so i had the pleasure of trying Ultramaroons car out yesterday at a local meet. first impressions just trying to start the car.

*car is off and i push in clutch*
"is this really all the motion *repeats* omg it is and ... its ... nothing, like on and off."
*starts laughing and looking at ultra*,
me to ultra: "is this really it? *he nods* ok don't laugh if i stall"
ultra: "you won't stall"
*starts car and starts rolling*
"omg this is soooo nice"
*drives for about 10 feet and looks at ultra*
"i'm sold"
*backs car into someone elses spot who had left for the exhaust showoff because that's how i roll*


so needless to say, i'll be ordering parts shortly and paying my buddy ultra a visit for some wrench time on my car and to share some laughs because THIS IS HOW THE CLUTCH SHOULD FEEL

lol... Best part was watching the other guy drive towards his special spot, look miffed, and drive off to the "regular cars." Classic.

[zeviance]

Just did this mod with the autozone 900061 clutch slave cyclinder - the difference is pretty noticeable and the clutch feels more like the one I have in my evo.

Do yourself a favor - if you're working on this mod by yourself, you can get a brake bleeder so you can bleed the clutch on your own. [ame="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000MXW2EM?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailp age_o01_s00"]Amazon.com: Motion Pro 08-0143 Hydraulic Brake Bleeder: Automotive[/ame]

It took me less than 10 minutes to get everything done (minus the part where I broke the banjo bolt because I torque it too hard. (subaru part num: 112925161 btw)), together with the mtec short spring + steel clutch line the car feels way more drive-able.

[Tt3Sheppard]

Just picked up the slave from Subaru since can no longer order online from Autozone. Curious, has this DIY fixed any of the squeaking clutch issues? Is grease required for the cylinder push rod?

[sato]

Originally Posted by Tt3Sheppard

Just picked up the slave from Subaru since can no longer order online from Autozone. Curious, has this DIY fixed any of the squeaking clutch issues? Is grease required for the cylinder push rod?

I just got the squeaky clutch (still on stock master and slave) ... Waiting on somebody's answer.

Sent using Tapatalk

[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by Tt3Sheppard

Just picked up the slave from Subaru since can no longer order online from Autozone. Curious, has this DIY fixed any of the squeaking clutch issues? Is grease required for the cylinder push rod?

Just a tiny dab of high-temp, high-load bearing lithium soap-based grease on both ends.

The manual calls for Nichimoly N-130 or equivalent.

I found only one reference online specifically equating it with Conoco-Phillips Multiplex Red #2.

[Tt3Sheppard]

Installed a few hours ago. Two questions if anyone can assist.

1) clutch is currently even/very slightly lower than brake pedal. Is adjustment needed?

2) when the car is off and I push the clutch in a can hear a clunk from what I think is the housing. I can only feel and hear it when the car is off. About 3/4ths of pushing the clutch in I can feel a slight notch and can hear an audible clunk. Wondering if this was already there but now more pronounced with new slave cylinder. Maybe related to the pedal adjustment.

Car so far shifts and drives normal.

[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by Tt3Sheppard

Installed a few hours ago. Two questions if anyone can assist.

1) clutch is currently even/very slightly lower than brake pedal. Is adjustment needed?

2) when the car is off and I push the clutch in a can hear a clunk from what I think is the housing. I can only feel and hear it when the car is off. About 3/4ths of pushing the clutch in I can feel a slight notch and can hear an audible clunk. Wondering if this was already there but now more pronounced with new slave cylinder. Maybe related to the pedal adjustment.

Car so far shifts and drives normal.

1. I don't like the idea of adjusting the clutch by comparing it to a non-related reference but in this case, it seems to work out ok.

2. That's a little disturbing. There might be a manufacturing defect in the new slave cyl. Now that you know how easy the swap actually is, I suggest going back to stock and compare. Remember, the whole purpose of this swap is to gain feedback from the clutch at the expense of pedal force.

On the subject of verifying clutch adjustment, here is yet another way to get comfortable with the tough/grab point.

Find a nice flat place where you can creep along at a casual walking pace, say 2 mph.

1. Get going in first and disengage the clutch.
2. Adjust your speed to coast at 2-3 mph.
3. Without giving any gas, slowly raise the clutch pedal.

You will feel the characteristic clunk of the driveline backlash when you reach the touch point.

What is happening here?

With the transmission in gear, the wheels are spinning the clutch disk.

The engine is idling a little faster than the clutch disk.

When the clutch begins to grab, it accelerates the clutch disk and all that transmission and differential backlash is taken up in the clunk.

You can tickle the clutch at that spot and get a feel for the exact touch point. Is it high enough that you know you can comfortably disengage the clutch for each shift? That's basically what you need to decide for yourself. Mine's maybe 1.5 inches off of the floor. I have long legs and I always mash it to the hardstop when I shift.

Any time you mess with the adjustment, always always always verify this.

[Tt3Sheppard]

Originally Posted by Ultramaroon

1. I don't like the idea of adjusting the clutch by comparing it to a non-related reference but in this case, it seems to work out ok.

2. That's a little disturbing. There might be a manufacturing defect in the new slave cyl. Now that you know how easy the swap actually is, I suggest going back to stock and compare. Remember, the whole purpose of this swap is to gain feedback from the clutch at the expense of pedal force.

On the subject of verifying clutch adjustment, here is yet another way to get comfortable with the tough/grab point.

Find a nice flat place where you can creep along at a casual walking pace, say 2 mph.

1. Get going in first and disengage the clutch.
2. Adjust your speed to coast at 2-3 mph.
3. Without giving any gas, slowly raise the clutch pedal.

You will feel the characteristic clunk of the driveline backlash when you reach the touch point.

What is happening here?

With the transmission in gear, the wheels are spinning the clutch disk.

The engine is idling a little faster than the clutch disk.

When the clutch begins to grab, it accelerates the clutch disk and all that transmission and differential backlash is taken up in the clunk.

You can tickle the clutch at that spot and get a feel for the exact touch point. Is it high enough that you know you can comfortably disengage the clutch for each shift? That's basically what you need to decide for yourself. Mine's maybe 1.5 inches off of the floor. I have long legs and I always mash it to the hardstop when I shift.

Any time you mess with the adjustment, always always always verify this.

I actually just came back from lunch break and made a few adjustments.

1) I removed the cotter pin and adjusted the clutch bracket by one 180 degree turn to slightly lower the clutch pedal. Double checked free play at the top and was not having any resistance from the cruise control switch. Engagement from the bottom is close to 1 1/2 inches of travel before you can feel the car start to move. I also don't remember that clutch rod being so flimsy after the pin is removed but it's been a couple of years since I last adjusted so maybe that is normal.

2) The clunk noise I was hearing went away after the clutch was slightly lowered. Maybe the cylinder rod was going in too deep/too much force with a slightly higher clutch pedal? I thought it might have been the slave as well but from the engine bay the sound was coming from either the firewall location or the transmission itself.

That link you provided I am wondering if that would ever change because from what I can see that rod doesn't seem to be related to the clutch pedal height. You spin the bracket and loosen the nut so I would think the bracket would move down a bit but the rod itself would always be in the same position/distance. I'm guessing that is more to do with the cruise control switch keeping the clutch from fully returning to the proper position. Or am I an idiot

Appreciate the assistance! I will be testing it more this week using the method you provided.

[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by Tt3Sheppard

I'm guessing that is more to do with the cruise control switch keeping the clutch from fully returning to the proper position. Or am I an idiot

Appreciate the assistance! I will be testing it more this week using the method you provided.

Exactly, the cruise control switch is the hardstop at the top of the pedal arc. With rotating the rod in the clevis, you are changing the effective length of that pushrod. If you don't allow the pedal to swing further up, something else will have to give. The master piston never makes it to full rest.

[chaoskaze]

I really wanna drive one of these. Since I got really use to stock clutch... Wonder how it will feel like? Does it Feel like a Honda? XD


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by chaoskaze

I really wanna drive one of these. Since I got really use to stock clutch... Wonder how it will feel like? Does it Feel like a Honda? XD

It will take zero time for you to "learn muscle memory" or whatever.

It will immediately be intuitive and you will say to yourself "Ah, I really CAN drive a stick properly!" Then you will quickly take it for granted until you drive someone else's 86.