CSG and RCE tag-team suspension Q&A thread! Ask us anything!

[djliquidsteele]

Originally Posted by djliquidsteele

No, its more steady state turning I feel like it is slightly understeering. I'll tighten up the rear swayer and see how that goes. Thanks for the info.

So, it seems I had to adjust my driving a little. I was so used to the slight over steer that I wouldn't really get into the throttle until the exit of a turn. I have learned, though I can get on the gas earlier and in it a little more and allow the diff to do some more work and bingo bango, faster into, through, and out of the turns. I just wasn't used to that much grip.

#drivermod

[solidONE]

the old "bingo-bango" lmao

[tracerit]

Installed Flex Z coiloverse 2 weeks ago and I went in to get an alignment but after seeing my rear camber at -1.9 L, -2.5 R, I'm considering getting LCA to bring them both to -1.5 L/R. I'm not sure if it's worth $200 (for SPC LCA) to fix that just for mainly highway driving. Opinions?

[solidONE]

Originally Posted by tracerit

Installed Flex Z coiloverse 2 weeks ago and I went in to get an alignment but after seeing my rear camber at -1.9 L, -2.5 R, I'm considering getting LCA to bring them both to -1.5 L/R. I'm not sure if it's worth $200 (for SPC LCA) to fix that just for mainly highway driving. Opinions?

Have you checked your ride heights? Perhaps making the ride height more even will in turn even out the camber a bit. Typically lower = more neg camber.

[tracerit]

Originally Posted by solidONE

Have you checked your ride heights? Perhaps making the ride height more even will in turn even out the camber a bit. Typically lower = more neg camber.

yup, both rears are at 25.5" fender to ground. This is without me in the car. I actually mentioned if I should up the rear right height a bit to get less camber but then with me in the driver seat, the left would be even lower, so i edited that mention out of the post haha. If -2.5 isn't too bad I might just keep it as is.

If I were to go with LCA's I was t hinking of the SPC just mainly because they're the cheapest.

[OkieSnuffBox]

^You need to corner weight the car with you (and safety equipment you use) in the car at the time.

[solidONE]

Originally Posted by tracerit

yup, both rears are at 25.5" fender to ground. This is without me in the car. I actually mentioned if I should up the rear right height a bit to get less camber but then with me in the driver seat, the left would be even lower, so i edited that mention out of the post haha. If -2.5 isn't too bad I might just keep it as is.

If I were to go with LCA's I was t hinking of the SPC just mainly because they're the cheapest.

What's the build date on your car? Mine is lop sided with the stock lower control arms as well. 1.5 LR 2.0 RR with a 10mm drop.

[yamsta]

I apologize if this has been discussed earlier but after a quick search I couldn't find specific answers to my concerns. I've enjoyed the FR-S' stock suspension and wheels/tires for the last 3 years. My stock tires wore out at 30k miles so I decided to get new wheels and tires. I ended up getting the Kosei K4R 17x8 +36 wrapped in Michelin Pilot Sport A/S 3 91Y 225/45/17 on my stock suspension FR-S. I got these wheels for a few reasons including the fact that they were lighter yet wider than stock and the offset gave a nice flush look to the car. After installing the wheels and tires I did notice that I feel like there is a slight increase in body roll and the car feels slightly more "floaty" -- my guess is because of the wider track and very slight increase in sidewall size. I do not plan to track the car and I do not want to lower it because I only drive on the street, albeit in a spirited manner. So my questions are:

1. What exactly am I feeling here? What exactly has changed?
2. What would be the "easiest" way to fix this, if any? Like I mentioned, I do not plan to track or lower my car. Just spirited daily driving.
3. On a slightly side note, are there any alignment changes I can make to make the car feel more precise on the street? I understand that camber isn't adjustable in stock form but is there anything quick/cheap I can do to alleviate this (I want to preserve tread life as much as possible)? I don't want to get sucked into an endless cycle of mods

Thanks.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by yamsta

I apologize if this has been discussed earlier but after a quick search I couldn't find specific answers to my concerns. I've enjoyed the FR-S' stock suspension and wheels/tires for the last 3 years. My stock tires wore out at 30k miles so I decided to get new wheels and tires. I ended up getting the Kosei K4R 17x8 +36 wrapped in Michelin Pilot Sport A/S 3 91Y 225/45/17 on my stock suspension FR-S. I got these wheels for a few reasons including the fact that they were lighter yet wider than stock and the offset gave a nice flush look to the car. After installing the wheels and tires I did notice that I feel like there is a slight increase in body roll and the car feels slightly more "floaty" -- my guess is because of the wider track and very slight increase in sidewall size. I do not plan to track the car and I do not want to lower it because I only drive on the street, albeit in a spirited manner. So my questions are:

1. What exactly am I feeling here? What exactly has changed?
2. What would be the "easiest" way to fix this, if any? Like I mentioned, I do not plan to track or lower my car. Just spirited daily driving.
3. On a slightly side note, are there any alignment changes I can make to make the car feel more precise on the street? I understand that camber isn't adjustable in stock form but is there anything quick/cheap I can do to alleviate this (I want to preserve tread life as much as possible)? I don't want to get sucked into an endless cycle of mods

Thanks.

Your increased grip is probably loading the suspension more

[Clipdat]

I'm currently on RCE Yellows on stock dampers and I'm finding that they don't rebound quickly enough over uneven pavement. On aggressive canyon runs I will bottom out the front of the car and scrape it as the dampers struggle to rebound quickly enough over uneven pavement.

I like the feel of the RCE Yellows and how predictable they are but I'm ready to upgrade to coilovers. If money were no object I'd get the Ohlins road and track, but is there a coilover system in the $~1500 range that will give me somewhat comparable performance to the Ohlins' high quality damper?

[tracerit]

1. I'm going to put on SPC LCA to fix my rear camber (bringing them from -1.9/-2.5 to -1.2/-1.2). The shop is going to install them for $30 and then do an alignment. From their wording it seems they're installing and going straight for an alignment back to back. Should I request to drive it around a bit to let things settle in then do the alignment or will it be okay to skip that part? If not, I'll just install them myself and then drive around a bit and then some before dropping my the shop.

2. Also, I went with 1/16 in toe in per @CSG Mike's recommendation, after calculating it, it came out to .06 degrees, the alignment guy couldn't get it to that so he matched both rears to .08 instead. Should I request going down to say .05 or .04 if .06 can not be achieved? This will be for mainly highway driving. At .08 it seems to pull right a bit after going straight for maybe 200-300ft (estimated).

For reference my front alignment is -1.3/-1.3 with .06 toe in both sides.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by Clipdat

I'm currently on RCE Yellows on stock dampers and I'm finding that they don't rebound quickly enough over uneven pavement. On aggressive canyon runs I will bottom out the front of the car and scrape it as the dampers struggle to rebound quickly enough over uneven pavement.

I like the feel of the RCE Yellows and how predictable they are but I'm ready to upgrade to coilovers. If money were no object I'd get the Ohlins road and track, but is there a coilover system in the $~1500 range that will give me somewhat comparable performance to the Ohlins' high quality damper?

If there was, nobody would buy the Ohlins...

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by tracerit

1. I'm going to put on SPC LCA to fix my rear camber (bringing them from -1.9/-2.5 to -1.2/-1.2). The shop is going to install them for $30 and then do an alignment. From their wording it seems they're installing and going straight for an alignment back to back. Should I request to drive it around a bit to let things settle in then do the alignment or will it be okay to skip that part? If not, I'll just install them myself and then drive around a bit and then some before dropping my the shop.

2. Also, I went with 1/16 in toe in per @CSG Mike's recommendation, after calculating it, it came out to .06 degrees, the alignment guy couldn't get it to that so he matched both rears to .08 instead. Should I request going down to say .05 or .04 if .06 can not be achieved? This will be for mainly highway driving. At .08 it seems to pull right a bit after going straight for maybe 200-300ft (estimated).

For reference my front alignment is -1.3/-1.3 with .06 toe in both sides.

1. should be fine, as long as everything is torqued.

2. 0.08 is fine.

[yamsta]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

Your increased grip is probably loading the suspension more

Thanks, however, is there anything I can do to help balance things out a little. Meaning less body roll and add a little bit more precision back? Sorry, I'm not very much in tune to what suspension mods or alignment changes would be ideal for a strictly street driven car!