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#1 |
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FT86
Join Date: Aug 2015
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Getting Turbo for automatic FRS.
Hi, I just got my Ultramarine FRS a week ago. I have the TRD exhaust system installed. I planned on getting a turbo like Full blown I saw a video that with that turbo it can hit 400 Horse. Turbo + Installation will run about $6,000. The only thing I'm worried about is that I wont be using my car for racing but its something I want to have for fun while driving even my frs is Automatic. My big question is that if I drive my car with the turbo on a daily basis does it shorten the length of my engine life? I only have 100 miles on my engine right now. Thanks in advance your help will most likely decide if i will get a turbo. Thank you very much in advanced.
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#2 |
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Senior Member
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yes
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| The Following 5 Users Say Thank You to KenTK808 For This Useful Post: | BlueDubbinTDI (08-29-2015), dpgfunk (09-01-2015), drewbot (08-29-2015), Freeman (08-29-2015), Pat.Thornton (08-31-2015) |
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#3 |
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Senior Member
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Be prepared for the worst. If $6k is your budget have spare funds on the side if anything goes wrong. Remember this will absolutely void your power train warranty. I literally just bought my SBD V2 turbo kit this past Thursday for my automatic and I'm as nervous as you. However, I have just under 30k miles driven in mine...it's definitely time for a change..
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#4 |
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Senior Member
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If you're going to boost the car (turbo) then have funds set aside to replace the engine and transmission, just in case they fail. That old phrase "you have to pay to play" comes to mind
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#5 |
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Think about it...you will be running the car at a level that the engine and transmission were not designed for. There have been post around here about engine failures even in non-boosted (stock) rides! Why boost it and then have to worry each time you take it out that its going to self-destruct.
I say enjoy your new car and warranty by keep the engine stock, unless you have money to burn. |
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#6 |
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Once the warranty is up then turbo it. I say all this assuming you have a second car to drive around while you work on this one.
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#7 |
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Yes sir, as everyone else said you're putting additional stress on your engine. It really depends on whether or not you want to roll the dice every time you go for a drive. For many people on this forum it's worth the risk, for other's it's not. It all depends on your own personal preference, funds, and circumstances.
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#8 |
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Get a wide band to monitor a/f and a boost gauge. No gauges is playing with fire.
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#9 |
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Some Dumb Guy
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I had my Ultramarine for a long time. My B2B warranty is up and I'm no where near the mileage (22k). Thought about FI, read about FI and tried a road coarse stock. Not going FI, this car is more fun in the curves than my motorcycle. I will be upgrading the tranny as I love manual mode and the paddle shifters.
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#10 |
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No rice, no life
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400hp is a lot. I believe the auto trans can handle up to 300 lb/ft of torque but I'd suggest you try researching that topic on your own. Everyone's experience is different.
I'd recommend getting the turbo kit and aiming for 300whp first. This is a pretty common power level for turbo'd FRSs, while there are much fewer people running 400. If you still feel as though you want more power, you can always move up to 400whp later on. Just keep in mind that this will probably require E85 (which may be common in Ohio, but is impossible to find here in New Jersey). As far as reliability goes: in my experience 250-300whp is very reliable, 300-350whp is potentially risky, and at 350whp+ you should probably invest in another daily driver just in case lol
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#11 | |
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Quote:
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2014 Subaru BRZ
FBM Turbokit: GTX3076R - ECUTEK HRI FlexFuel tune - FBM 3" Turboback Exhaust - 550cc Injectors - Walbro 485 Fuel Pump - 4bar Map Sensor - FBM Oil Pan - ACT SB7-XTSS - AMSOIL all fluids - Forester XT Oil Cooler - Cusco engine, trans mounts - Whiteline rear differential bushings - Perrin shifter bushing - Firehawk 235/45/17 - AEM Failsafe |
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#12 | |
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Quote:
Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk
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FRed-S
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#13 |
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The question that always comes to my mind is why jump straight from stock power (160-170whp) straight to 400whp? It's an incredible leap, not just in terms of how terrifyingly fast it's going to be in a straight line, but also in terms of all the supporting modifications you will need.
You won't be able to drive it on the standard tires, or even "good" tires, you'll need great tires (and wide ones) to approach having some traction. Your suspension will also need to be massaged to keep up. Brakes should be looked at. That 400whp won't be on pump gas, either. You will be tethered to e85 pumps. I'll always recommend going in stages on the power unless you've already done it before and you know what you are getting into. Going too far can lead to the opposite of what you want, which is I assume to enjoy driving the car more. Not less. |
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#14 |
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Nicely put. I'm in that boat with a new "relatively" stock ride and have zero desire to get to 400hp. After a bit you start breaking stuff lol. For me, around 250whp is the magic number. Keeps things manageable and still a blast to drive. Like a friend of mine says, "Better to drive a slow car fast, than a fast car slow".
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