07-28-2015, 02:23 PM | #85 | |
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With my luck so far on this car it may just explode
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07-28-2015, 06:00 PM | #86 |
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hey, when things break it is just an excuse to go buy nicer replacment parts. atleast that is what i tell myself when i need to feel better about breaking random things and wasting countless amounts of money on things i shouldnt be.
AND if it blows up that will make for a very awesome video |
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07-31-2015, 10:40 AM | #87 |
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http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=74391
i did just stumble across this build which im reading now. but he was running a CX turbo kit with i imagine little to no issues soo we have hope that it may not explode |
07-31-2015, 10:51 AM | #88 | |
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07-31-2015, 10:58 AM | #89 |
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yea im slowly reading into that, you would think after blowing the motor twice with what im assuming was the CX kit that he would not go with CX again. but pretty sure they are a sponsor so i hope they are atleast covering all the bills
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07-31-2015, 11:03 AM | #90 |
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That's the conclusion I came too. He has to be getting reimbursed by them, or works for them in some form or another.
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07-31-2015, 01:21 PM | #91 |
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Or if you know the mechanics of how all this stuff works - the motor blew because of countless reasons related to air fuel/temp, oil, etc... The motor isn't going to blow because of what brand turbo is pushing air into it. It might blow because too much air is blowing into it, but not because of what label is slapped on the outside.
While the CX kit may not be a true pro quality kit, it can be for a small extra fee - about $600. $100 to machine the flanges on the manifold, $250 for a tial wastegate, $200 for a BOV and $50-$100 for a better air filter. Throw in $10 for some better bolts and you have a very nice kit. And no - I'm not sponsored by anyone but Visa lol.
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07-31-2015, 07:20 PM | #92 |
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I'm very interested in the cxracing manifold plus downpipe combo. Why would you machine the flange? The tial f38 fits right in and it is a proven wastegate. I might have to get this and start gathering my parts and the intercooler kit.
The build is looking good ! |
07-31-2015, 07:23 PM | #93 | |
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Quote:
I decided to remove the light weight crank pulley as I've heard too many horror stories on this motor, which required me to remove the turbo manifold - so I had the flanges milled to a nice flat surface for re-installation. The downpipe is nice and fitment is really good. I got the downpipe wrapped finally too. Putting most if not all of it back together tonight.
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07-31-2015, 11:47 PM | #94 |
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So here are the newly milled Turbo manifold flanges (no RTV sealant any more - perfect fit):
And here is a picture of everything coming back together again now that the stock crank pulley is back in place. New additions: Tial wastegate (purple for some contrast) and Greddy FV BOV + blue silicone vacuum lines. At this time I can't modify the oil pan and drain line from the turbo, but will likely do so after my first oil change to eliminate the slight upward bend the oil must take to return to the oil pan. Gravity does put it in there and when I took the oil line off the turbo the oil was a good 5" down the tube (not backed up to the turbo), but just to be safe as other members have pointed out I will move it the next time it makes sense to do so. Tomorrow the new Koyo radiator goes in and it's ready for the first (non-tuned) test drive with the MAF disconnected. Then next week at some point it's time to get tuned.
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08-01-2015, 11:26 PM | #95 |
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I hate intercooler piping
I think just about the hardest part of any turbo install is the damn intercooler piping... If I never have to install a FMIC again it will be too soon.
Blitz filter, Tial wastegate, Greddy BOV, Koyo radiator and factory crank pulley installed. Tomorrow the coolant gets put in and I bleed the brakes. Hopefully I will get to drive it tomorrow for the first time...? 2nd gear is dead - Perrin bushing and Megan Racing trans mount didn't remedy the issue.
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08-02-2015, 12:48 AM | #96 |
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Did you have to modify the be radiator fans or the crash bar to fit the turbo or intercooler?
What diameter is the downpipe then it merges with the oem piping? I'm pulling the trigger on the manifold pretty soon. How much did you mill off? 1/32"? Sorry for all the ?'s |
08-02-2015, 09:48 AM | #97 | |
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Quote:
The downpipe is 3" internal diameter where it meets the factory exhaust. I believe they only milled about 1/32" - nothing much but it made a huge difference on fitment. You'll be happy with their manifold, just get it milled like I did so you have no issues. And use the oem gaskets.
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08-02-2015, 07:09 PM | #98 |
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Took the car out for the first test drive today:
I'm thinking about painting the intercooler black to give it a true "Sleeper" look.
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brz cx racing turbo, brz rebuild, brz turbo |
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