FRS Track Build

[derek1ee]

Originally Posted by Sleepless

Cantrell makes a bar for the twins too; I have one

wait what? it's not on their website. i will give them a call tomorrow. can you share some photos of it installed and price? thanks!

[Sleepless]

Originally Posted by Pat

Wait...you're saying on the track NT01s last half as long as AD08s/Star Specs? And you're driving the car at it's limit? That's tough for me to believe.

Why? Makes total sense given NT01s are TW100 and the others are TW180 and TW200... I got 6 days on the NT01s and 10 days on the ADO8s. Still working on the Star Specs...

[Pat]

It has more surface area, less tread squirm, is designed to tolerate heat better, etc. I understand treadwear ratings, but it's also important to consider how the tire is used. Using the a tool for it's intended purpose is important.
For example, driving a snow tire on a highway in 30 degree weather, it would last much longer than an R-comp. But on the track in 90 degree heat I would expect different results.
I don't understand how you only got six days out of NT01s. Did you run an enduro or something? Around here people typically get something like 25 to 35 20-minute sessions out of them, depending on the car. Hell, one of my friends with a gutted New Beetle and stock power ran a set for two whole seasons.

[Sleepless]

Been running NTO1s on a variety of cars since 2007 and they typically last around 6 track days on all of the cars (Cayman S, 993 Turbo, BRZ, Mustang Cobra, ...).

TW200 tires are designed for racing, both AX and road course. This is a very competitive tire segment so the manufactures frequently change the compounds. I've learned to appreciate them greatly over the past few years.

Anyway, this is my experience. Tires and brake pads are very much a personal choice ...

[Sleepless]

Originally Posted by Pat

Around here people typically get something like 25 to 35 20-minute sessions out of them, depending on the car.

At 5 session per day, that's 5-7 days

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by Sleepless

Why? Makes total sense given NT01s are TW100 and the others are TW180 and TW200... I got 6 days on the NT01s and 10 days on the ADO8s. Still working on the Star Specs...

I polish off street tires in 2 days of track driving, front and rear. I can assure you that I'm not understeering by any means, and those fronts are still cording...

[emirdtm]

Originally Posted by smoltz

Started doing HPDE w/ BMWCCA and Porsche (in my Porsche 996 Turbo). I've done about a half dozen events so far. Really enjoying it, but trying to decide if I want to continue with my 911 Turbo or get something that's a little cheaper to run. In looking at vehicles with a lower cost of operation, came across the BRZ\FRS. Seems like it would be a good platform.

If I were to head in this direction, I would buy a new FRS, and then spend 10-15k (parts only) to get it ready for track use, focussed on safety, longevity and performance. I've read a bunch on the forum and have some ideas of my own, but wanted to just put the question out there and see what folks thought, where should I spend my money? In terms of requirements, car will be for use at HPDE for the next few seasons, I need to be able to drive it to the track but likely won't see any extended street use other than that. In general, I'd rather do fewer high quality upgrades and then as budget allows go wider than try and do a million things and cut corners everywhere to hit a price point.

If I was you I would also consider a S2K I had both and from my experience the S2K needs a lot less $$ to be VERY competitive on the track

[Lynxis]

If I had 10k to spend on track focused modifications, I'd do the following:

Add monitoring/diagnostics/data logging
Lightweight wheels and good tires
Big Brake Kit and brake ducting. Upgrade pads and fluid too.
Coilover suspension and track alignment
Oil cooler
Full exhaust including headers and tune

I think these are the best bang for buck modifications you can make and all of them will put you at around 10k if you are buying good stuff new.

The OEM safety equipment should be fine at this stage. That said, if you want to take the car farther than I mentioned, then stripping the interior is a natural next step and you should definitely be looking into a cage, seats and harness.

[jvincent]

I was about to write almost the same thing as @strat61caster.

Brake pads and fluid are a must. On my 5th or 6th track day ever I melted the stock pads after two hot laps.

My other track mods are:

- Crash bolts installed to max out the camber on the stock suspension.
- Oil cooler.
- Upgraded tires/wheels (Hankook V12s) and have a OFH and OFT tune.

My next upgrade is coilovers and after that I am most likely done.

[philooo]

Originally Posted by Lynxis

If I had 10k to spend on track focused modifications, I'd do the following:

Add monitoring/diagnostics/data logging
Lightweight wheels and good tires
Big Brake Kit and brake ducting. Upgrade pads and fluid too.
Coilover suspension and track alignment
Oil cooler
Full exhaust including headers and tune

I think these are the best bang for buck modifications you can make and all of them will put you at around 10k if you are buying good stuff new.

The OEM safety equipment should be fine at this stage. That said, if you want to take the car farther than I mentioned, then stripping the interior is a natural next step and you should definitely be looking into a cage, seats and harness.

That is what I did on my car and a good list of things to do.

I drove my porsche 996 (base) to a bunch of track days but I decided that I did not want to really go that fast, more learning how to balance the car around and also have something easier to maintain and also something dedicated for the track so I didn't have to live with it in the city.

My list, in that order

step1:
- brake fluid
- track brake pads
- good tires

step2:
- oil cooler for peace of mind
- 6 point harness and race seats

step3:
- big brake kit, em are fine but will cost more over time
- coilover suspension

step4:
- whiteline bushings


Useless but fun:
- exhaust + tune
- E85 kit + tune

for log monitoring, iphone app like harrys lap timer works just fine.

[donoman]

I've done 3 trackdays and can confidently agree that brake pads should be the first to go. I smoked mine in the 1st day at my local track. It ended up scoring the rotors and was an expensive mistake. I ended up buying racing pads (Project Mu ClubRacer) and hi-temp fluid.

Next 2 trackdays were back-to-back and the brakes performed flawlessly. The stock tires were a blast to learn the car on. I had a lot of fun even though I literally could not pass anyone in the B session. I took it easy and just enjoyed feeling the car.

It's probably time for new tires but since I'm going to do that, I might as well get wider 17x9 wheels to get more rubber under the car.

So the slippery slope begins...

[philooo]

I agree track brake pads are a must. stock pads are useless on the track, like any other cars they are designed for the road: silence, durability and dust minimization.

I actually have a set of carbothech XP12 for sale
I used them one day at sebring, then went for the essex sprint kit...if interested
I actually also have a set of dab t3 rotors for sale.

If you don't want to go big brake kit, you will have to get the pads and the aftermarket rotors as well.

[jvincent]

Originally Posted by philooo

If you don't want to go big brake kit, you will have to get the pads and the aftermarket rotors as well.

Aftermarket rotors aren't a requirement, the stock ones or cheap replacements are fine.

Pads and rotors are consumables. Depending on how much track time you get and what your braking is like you will wear them out either quickly or very quickly. At that point you need to decide whether the cost of a BBK and its lower operating cost is worth it.

[philooo]

I agree, stock rotor work fine, they just a tendency to warp under heavy heat.
the aftermarket rotor will give you a little bit more margin...until you go with big brake kit