CSG and RCE tag-team suspension Q&A thread! Ask us anything!

[solidONE]

Originally Posted by 7thgear

regardless of the stud issue though, a 13mm offset shift while the width remains the same means a noticeable affect on scrub


did TRD simply go to please the stance people, or does this actually work into better geometry?

I wonder if there is a difference between TRD Japan and TRD USA. I'm thinking TRD USA sell products like those 5AD body kits that were dealer options before TRD released their aero package. Motegi wheels were also a dealer option as well. Not the kind stuff that I'd expect from factory tuner like TRD, Nismo, etc.

[BigFatFlip]

Originally Posted by 7thgear

does our rear toe go in or out when the rear is raised above oem?

Not entirely sure which way toe-in/out goes, but comparing my alignments before and after I raised my ohlins ~1/4" (6mm), my driver side toe went from -0.04" to 0.08" while the passenger stayed the same at 0.07". Don't know if that helps you any

Edit: These are for the rears

[7thgear]

Originally Posted by BigFatFlip

Not entirely sure which way toe-in/out goes, but comparing my alignments before and after I raised my ohlins ~1/4" (6mm), my driver side toe went from -0.04" to 0.08" while the passenger stayed the same at 0.07". Don't know if that helps you any

Edit: These are for the rears

indeed



it's always weird when only one side reacts.

[notout86]

This thread is amazing. So much to know. I curse the person who pointed me to it.

All I want is to keep the nice even wear I am getting, but make it so I get a smaller radius turn for a given angle of the steering wheel. When I try to nose-in park between 2 cars I tend to overshoot, and at the same time the back does not come out and around, like it did in my previous car. At roundabouts I have to adjust steering or paddle-shift down helps, whereas my previous just seemed to go round I am not talking a lack of lock. Can it be as simple as a little more front toe out and rear toe in?

[LittleBlueGT]

Originally Posted by 7thgear

does our rear toe go in or out when the rear is raised above oem?

If the toe arm was relatively horizontal before, then any change in ride-height (up or down) would result in toe-in, no?

The tow control arm is much shorter then the lower rear arm, and the upper-wishbone.

[strat61caster]

Following up on this post:

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showp...postcount=2558

And tagging @Shankenstein

Autocrossed today, started out like I said I would at around 28 ish cold, felt best on the first run, went away on runs 2 & 3, coming up to the 29-30 range measuring after coming off, rolling a bit and hopping out, I believe I dropped 1 psi after run 2. I chatted up a guy who's wicked fast and his suggestion was to start the day at 25 cold and let them float up to 32 or 33. Based on that I dropped another 2 psi so hypothetically down to 25 cold and it worked really well. 27-28 measuring coming after my run so some time to cool down. I dropped another psi and it got worse for my last two runs (didn't have convenient air to add a psi back).

So yeah, based on today my stock 86 (plus brake pads, fluid, camber bolts to -1.1 degrees up front) on 215/45/18 Dunlop Direzza ZII Star Spec on oem wheels seemed to really like hovering around 27-28 psi coming off the autocross course. My new baseline is 25 psi cold in the morning and I'll keep progress logged in my little build thread as I tweak. As is well known having the rear 1-2 psi lower hooks it up and reduces some oversteer but I find that any oversteer incidents can be traced back to the driver if the suspension/sways are stock.

Sorry if I let any cats out of the bag for the uber competitive guys, or maybe I'm off base and y'all are runin' 'em up at 44 like some guys with heavier cars do in which case you're welcome.

[scirocco78]

What size rear sway bar requires the use of these rear sway bar support braces I see being sold? Does it depend on what spring rates you have too?

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by solidONE

I wonder if there is a difference between TRD Japan and TRD USA. I'm thinking TRD USA sell products like those 5AD body kits that were dealer options before TRD released their aero package. Motegi wheels were also a dealer option as well. Not the kind stuff that I'd expect from factory tuner like TRD, Nismo, etc.

They are very different.

I'll try to catch up with the rest of this thread tonight.

- Andrew

[killerkid08]

Hey gents, I see you are delivering some great advice, and I'm surely in need of some here. We all have the pipe dream of the perfect suspension, which rides like butter with the significant other in the car, and leaves GT3s and GT-Rs begging in the corners. I know that's not a logical thing to expect unless I'm constantly swapping between parts whenever Im feeling antsy. What I want to know is what do you find to be the best compromise suspension setup to purchase? Money isn't a factor and neither is complexity of setup. The range can include coils and struts to your skunkworks Penske setup.

I currently have 18×8.75 ,38mm offset, wheels, 245/45/18 G-Sport 2s (probably changing to Mich PSC2s or PSS), EIBACH sportlines, stock struts and supporting components, and would like a car that is competitive with most higher end sports cars, but isn't a reason to see my chiropractor once a week. The car will progress towards 450-500+ whp in the next month or so, to support the suspension. I don't autocross, but do attend HPDE Events and Track Days, when I can, which is usually few times a year. I'm focused more on spirited canyon carving and don't enjoy rubbing the paint of my fenders(EIBACH) in a loaded tight turn.

I hope I've given you enough information to be informed as to what I'm wanting. Ultimately, this will be a competitor to all things supercar for less money. ( Insert giggles here) I've considerded Ohlins R&Ts, KW V3s, Club sport versions of most reputable manufacturers, but I just find myself going back and forth. I started to piece together a RCE\B8 kit, but wonder if it will be capable and complaint enough to avoid the couch at home and the ditches/sand traps.

[The_Understated]

If money isn't an issue you may want to look at some brands above and beyond the KW V3s and R&Ts, JRZ for example. The main focus is choosing a spring rate and damper combo that suit each other for what you need. The spring rate can be "relatively" low as long as the damper and it's settings are suited for the spring.

I'll let the experts jump in here (they seem to be busy with racing in stuff right now xD) when they're free but thats just my .02 from my limited experience.


EDIT: Calum's post below reminded me of the Raceseng and Renske thread that's going on. The discussion has some awesome information in it from one of the penske Design Engineers: http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showt...t=89839&page=3 (It's on page 3 for me, but I have the posts/page maxed out, not the default. lol Read post #81 and onwards)

[Calum]

You should take a look at these. http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=77604

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by killerkid08

Hey gents, I see you are delivering some great advice, and I'm surely in need of some here. We all have the pipe dream of the perfect suspension, which rides like butter with the significant other in the car, and leaves GT3s and GT-Rs begging in the corners. I know that's not a logical thing to expect unless I'm constantly swapping between parts whenever Im feeling antsy. What I want to know is what do you find to be the best compromise suspension setup to purchase? Money isn't a factor and neither is complexity of setup. The range can include coils and struts to your skunkworks Penske setup.

I currently have 18×8.75 ,38mm offset, wheels, 245/45/18 G-Sport 2s (probably changing to Mich PSC2s or PSS), EIBACH sportlines, stock struts and supporting components, and would like a car that is competitive with most higher end sports cars, but isn't a reason to see my chiropractor once a week. The car will progress towards 450-500+ whp in the next month or so, to support the suspension. I don't autocross, but do attend HPDE Events and Track Days, when I can, which is usually few times a year. I'm focused more on spirited canyon carving and don't enjoy rubbing the paint of my fenders(EIBACH) in a loaded tight turn.

I hope I've given you enough information to be informed as to what I'm wanting. Ultimately, this will be a competitor to all things supercar for less money. ( Insert giggles here) I've considerded Ohlins R&Ts, KW V3s, Club sport versions of most reputable manufacturers, but I just find myself going back and forth. I started to piece together a RCE\B8 kit, but wonder if it will be capable and complaint enough to avoid the couch at home and the ditches/sand traps.

If your budget can support it and complexity isn't an issue, you may be interested in our RCE Tarmac 3 set up. A true 3 way with separate low/high speed compression damping as well as rebound damping. With lots of power on a lightweight RWD chassis...that adjustability can be pretty helpful. I just spent a day with them on crappy back roads on our 2015 WRX and the ride is quite good even on very firm springs. A very advanced shock in a durable package at a good price.

JRZ is an option and they now include a few things to make them a little more "streetable". Excellent valving...we've spent a ton of time with them and helped with their BRZ set-up.

The new Raceseng Penskes sound interesting if you have the budget. Details are slim at the moment though. I need to call those guys...

- Andrew

[kingkenny]

Anyone have experience with Cusco 3x coilover ?

[The Slow One]

Does anyone have a good idea what's a good base setting to set the Eibach R2 Coilovers for the rebound and bump for track use?

My Mods currently are: JRSC, e85, Full exhaust, on 245/40 Dunlop Z2ss. There's more but I think that would be a good idea already.