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| Electronics | Audio | NAV | Infotainment Anything related to in-car electronics, navigation, and infotainment. |
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#15 |
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Join Date: Apr 2012
Drives: FR-S Monogram Whiteout 6MT
Location: Arizona
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#16 |
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Join Date: May 2013
Drives: WRB BRZ
Location: ABQ
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Okay, looks like you are looking at a 2-way component set for the front. The 6.5" goes in the door, and the tweeter would replace both the stock tweeter and 3" in the dash. These would be wired to the passive crossover provided with the component set. The crossovers would be powered by the left and right front channels of the amplifier.
The rear speakers could then be powered off the rear left and right channels of the amplifier. This means you would also need a separate sub amp. You could also run the rear speakers off head unit power (or don't even use rear speakers) and bridge the rear channels of the amp to power a subwoofer. |
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#17 |
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Join Date: Aug 2012
Drives: 13 gbs brz
Location: SF
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ditch the rear fill speakers and run front components only (6.5 mids in the door and tweets in the dash). at a $1000 price point, rear speakers are going to detract from your sound quality. in order for rear speakers to make sense, you'd want an active setup, meaning you would need a sound processor. maybe you could find an ms8 to fill that role if you're willing to use the stock head unit or a lower cost aftermarket unit. you can often find a used ms8 on diymobileaudio.com (and also I encourage you to spend a lot of time on that site reading through diys and other folks' build logs). diymobileaudio will answer pretty much all of your questions.
my suggestion based on your above posts is: (i) low cost aftermarket headunit; (ii) a solid four channel class d amp; (iii) front component setup with tweet/6.5 mids; (iv) a ten inch sub. You'll want to ditch the rear speakers, run the hu to the 4ch amp. Two channels will power front components (each channel feeds to a passive crossover provided with the components, which sends highs to your tweet and mids to your 6.5). You'll bridge the remaining two channels to power your subwoofer. If you want to use your current mono amp to power your sub, the setup gets a bit more complicated, but is still doable. You'll also need to pick up sound proofing materials, cables, appropriate fuse and power cables/wire. I see you've already got a sub and box you like, so that's good. Even if you do the work yourself, it's going to be tough to get everything done for under $1k. Maybe if you find all used stuff and try not to spend too much on head unit. Gluck man
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> CA crew. gbs brz ltd. 370z (sold). ap2 s2000 (sold). fg2 si (sold).
Last edited by butdamnbrian; 07-05-2015 at 05:52 PM. |
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