AVO Turbo Kit Owners Topic

[DesertFrs]

Originally Posted by Astroboy

I tried that today, and unfortunately the tube slid out a little after tightening the tube back up -___-
I'll try using a different clamp


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What bov are you using?

What you can also do is notch the mounting plate of the wastegate just a tad bit to slide the hose further and then tighten it. that should do the trick.

[kbogarto]

Originally Posted by AVOturboworld

Check to make sure the hose from the compressor cover to the actuator has not come off, or if you are using an electronic boost solenoid, that it hasn't come off that.

Sure enough that hose had come off. I put it back on but am
Afraid it will happen again. Any ideas on this?

[Fastbrew]

Zip tie.

[protpibe]

Originally Posted by kbogarto

Sure enough that hose had come off. I put it back on but am

Afraid it will happen again. Any ideas on this?

Don't use a zip tie, it will become brittle and break.

Use a fuel injector clamp

Attachment 113254

[Astroboy]

Originally Posted by DesertFrs

What bov are you using?



What you can also do is notch the mounting plate of the wastegate just a tad bit to slide the hose further and then tighten it. that should do the trick.

I'm using a turbo world bpv


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[onzippy]

Originally Posted by Astroboy

I tried that today, and unfortunately the tube slid out a little after tightening the tube back up -___-
I'll try using a different clamp


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Same problem here. On my second year with the kit and the turbo inlet tube loosening is the one annoying thing that keeps reminding me this is not OEM. Needs adjustment monthly.

The angle of the turbo and interference from the compressor side tube makes the inlet tube sit at an angle, plus the tube diameter is plainly larger than it should be for the size of the inlet housing flange so loose fit to begin with.

With the original hose clamp I popped the screw head off because I made it that tight. Switched to a t-bolt hose clamp and made it even tighter. There was no noticeable difference.

If you search you'll find others reporting the same. The posted recommendation I like the most it to remove the turbo and have a shop weld a bead around the inlet flange to catch the clamp, like a regular hose fitting might have.

Only thing needed now is motivation to remove the turbo...but I just switched to e85 and having way to much fun with that right now.

[Fastbrew]

Dear Paul and AVO users:

I am currently setup with an AVO turbo running at 12PSI on 92 octane fuel. I don't have ready access to E85 so I want to continue using this for the moment.

I have been looking at the "Stage 3" equipment list from AVO.

I currently have the
AVO 2.5" cross over
AVO 3" front pipe all the way back to the 3" Perrin - all catless
AVO Stage 2 Turbo Kit
Base Kit with 8 PSI Actuator
OEM Blow Off Valve
OMNI 3 Bar Uprated MAP Sensor
AVO Type I breather can for turbo

My question -

What would I need to add to get this to "stage 3"?

I see:
injectors
fuel pump
3" turbo discharge pipe
3" cross over pipe
and maybe the BOV
Is there an upgraded turbo that needs to go in as well? Or is the existing turbo upgrade-able?

The next question is - what is likely to be the result of this compared to my current setup? I like my setup. It dynos at about 280WHP on a good cool day. Drift office tune.

But - my goal was to have it over 300 - (as high as possible if the engine won't burn up immediately
I recently had the plugs pulled and took a good look at the car after running for a few months at 12PSI. Everything checks out great.

So - if I made the above changes and re-tuned - what would the prediction be on the changes I would get - not only in HP - but response with the extra fuel and air?

I am not going to toast this engine by trying to push it over the limit with with 92.
I am hoping that I can figure out the E85 thing here in Portland, OR. So, I guess these modifications would apply to that when the time comes - correct?

Any thoughts would be appreciated.

Thanks for reading.

[JD86]

Originally Posted by onzippy

Same problem here. On my second year with the kit and the turbo inlet tube loosening is the one annoying thing that keeps reminding me this is not OEM. Needs adjustment monthly.

The angle of the turbo and interference from the compressor side tube makes the inlet tube sit at an angle, plus the tube diameter is plainly larger than it should be for the size of the inlet housing flange so loose fit to begin with.

With the original hose clamp I popped the screw head off because I made it that tight. Switched to a t-bolt hose clamp and made it even tighter. There was no noticeable difference.

I was having the inlet hose come off repeatedly to the point the fan belt ate a hole in it and I had to replace it. When I did the replacement we made a few changes. We trimmed the BOV pipe as this was pushing the alignment out. I swapped the standard clamp out for a T bolt clamp. Lastly I put a couple of cable ties around the inlet hose and one of the hoses to the left (looking at the front of the car). I'm pretty sure it was the intercooler hose, but can't visualize it right this second...
Anyway end result is that the intake hose hasn't come off since and that was some eight months ago. Total cost of fix - 1 T bolt clamp, 2 cable ties, half an hour stuffing around.

[onzippy]

Originally Posted by kbogarto

Sure enough that hose had come off. I put it back on but am
Afraid it will happen again. Any ideas on this?

Idea: Put some loctite on it and shove it back in the hole.

[protpibe]

Originally Posted by onzippy

Idea: Put some loctite on it and shove it back in the hole.

loctite needs threads and is actually very brittle

I've been struggling with the inlet pipe popping off since the kit was almost new. I've tried just about everything, but have finally accepted the fact that it wont' be 100% secure ever. That pipe does not see any positive pressure, so as long as it's on a bit, you should be fine.

I'm currently using a T-Bolt clamp on the turbo inlet, and cable ties to hold the inlet hose against the support that sits vertically infront of the rad. It seems to work well enough.

[protpibe]

Originally Posted by Fastbrew

Dear Paul and AVO users:

I am currently setup with an AVO turbo running at 12PSI on 92 octane fuel. I don't have ready access to E85 so I want to continue using this for the moment.

I have been looking at the "Stage 3" equipment list from AVO.

I currently have the
AVO 2.5" cross over
AVO 3" front pipe all the way back to the 3" Perrin - all catless
AVO Stage 2 Turbo Kit
Base Kit with 8 PSI Actuator
OEM Blow Off Valve
OMNI 3 Bar Uprated MAP Sensor
AVO Type I breather can for turbo

My question -

What would I need to add to get this to "stage 3"?

I see:
injectors
fuel pump
3" turbo discharge pipe
3" cross over pipe
and maybe the BOV
Is there an upgraded turbo that needs to go in as well? Or is the existing turbo upgrade-able?

The next question is - what is likely to be the result of this compared to my current setup? I like my setup. It dynos at about 280WHP on a good cool day. Drift office tune.

But - my goal was to have it over 300 - (as high as possible if the engine won't burn up immediately
I recently had the plugs pulled and took a good look at the car after running for a few months at 12PSI. Everything checks out great.

So - if I made the above changes and re-tuned - what would the prediction be on the changes I would get - not only in HP - but response with the extra fuel and air?

I am not going to toast this engine by trying to push it over the limit with with 92.
I am hoping that I can figure out the E85 thing here in Portland, OR. So, I guess these modifications would apply to that when the time comes - correct?

Any thoughts would be appreciated.

Thanks for reading.

How do you have the AVO 3" Front pipe if you don't have the 3" downpipe and over pipe? They come as a package since the flange locations were changed.

Get a 3" downpipe with 3" crossover pipe and you should break 300whp. Check with your tuner to see if injectors are necessary, but the stock fuel pump will work fine. (tuner might not be utilizing DI in the top end).

[Sportsguy83]

If your turbo inlet hose pops off, and you start sucking unmetered air (MAF is not counting the air going into the turbo) while WOT, it will be a very bad day.

This matters if you are running a MAF based tune (MAF sensor meters air and tells the computer how much air is going in so it can calculate how much fuel is needed).

It doesn't matter if you are running a Speed Density tune (the amount of fuel is calculated based on inlet air temperature, engine load and manifold absolute pressure among others)

Most AVO users run on a MAF based tune.

[AVOturboworld]

Originally Posted by Fastbrew

Dear Paul and AVO users:

I am currently setup with an AVO turbo running at 12PSI on 92 octane fuel. I don't have ready access to E85 so I want to continue using this for the moment.

What would I need to add to get this to "stage 3"?

I see:
injectors
fuel pump
3" turbo discharge pipe
3" cross over pipe
and maybe the BOV
Is there an upgraded turbo that needs to go in as well? Or is the existing turbo upgrade-able?

The next question is - what is likely to be the result of this compared to my current setup? I like my setup. It dynos at about 280WHP on a good cool day. Drift office tune.

I would concentrate on the 3" discharge and crossover pipe. That would provide the most gains.

You don't need to upgrade the turbocharger, the only limitation you are fighting is available fuel. The current turbocharger will go out to 420+ whp on e85, or 360whp on race gas. It's a common misconception that the turbo is "small" because it spools up so quickly, but it's actually a medium sized turbo that has excellent response because of the short exhaust runner design.

But - my goal was to have it over 300 - (as high as possible if the engine won't burn up immediately
I recently had the plugs pulled and took a good look at the car after running for a few months at 12PSI. Everything checks out great.

So - if I made the above changes and re-tuned - what would the prediction be on the changes I would get - not only in HP - but response with the extra fuel and air?

You won't be running out of fuel if you are going to run on standard 92 octane pump gas - it's e85 that pushes the need for injectors and a fuel pump. With the full 3" turbo back and a retune, it will likely push past 300whp.

I am not going to toast this engine by trying to push it over the limit with with 92.
I am hoping that I can figure out the E85 thing here in Portland, OR. So, I guess these modifications would apply to that when the time comes - correct?

All modifications that improve air flow pre-turbo and exhaust flow post-turbo apply!

Pretty much all you will need at that point is to get the injectors/fuel pump, and a flex fuel kit. And tuning, of course.

[protpibe]

Originally Posted by Sportsguy83

If your turbo inlet hose pops off, and you start sucking unmetered air (MAF is not counting the air going into the turbo) while WOT, it will be a very bad day.

Yeah good call, I forgot I'm running SD lol

pls disregard my previous no-care attitude towards that inlet pipe if you're using your MAF haha