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Old 05-26-2015, 07:16 PM   #15
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I know nothing about starters, but could this be somehow related to the vehicles immobilization feature? Like it doesn't recognize this as the same engine, so there's no handshake when the key is turned and thus it refuses to initialize/power up the starter?
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Old 05-26-2015, 07:36 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by protpibe View Post
I've already checked if the engine is seized

The starter motor *does not* spin when it is connected to the vehicles electrical system, both INSTALLED and NOT INSTALLED into the engine block. It does spin when I remove it from the vehicle and test it with a battery charger.

I've put the car in higher gear and pushed it in my garage and heard the engine turn. It is not seized.
My first thought was immobilizer, but you kept your original ECU, DI driver box, etc right? I didn't think you would need to recode anything if you kept your original electrics.

Did you try your other key by chance? Wondering if it could be the battery in the keyfob.... Do you have anyway to pull codes or is the dash throwing any lights when you try to turn the key??
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Old 05-26-2015, 08:23 PM   #17
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My first thought was immobilizer, but you kept your original ECU, DI driver box, etc right? I didn't think you would need to recode anything if you kept your original electrics.

Did you try your other key by chance? Wondering if it could be the battery in the keyfob.... Do you have anyway to pull codes or is the dash throwing any lights when you try to turn the key??
Yeah I kept my existing ecu/fuel computer, etc. I have a CAFI Dashlinq with torque in dash, I'll check to see if there are any codes. I'll also try a spare key.. coudln't hurt, right?

I've been at work all day long and have been looking over some wiring diagrams. Even though the grounds LOOK fine, I think they may be the culprit.
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Old 05-27-2015, 11:14 AM   #18
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Just two ground straps under the motor to the frame rails. The rest is all plug and play harness stuff. Is your injector ecu bolted down to its bracket on the passenger side head or do you just have it laying there for testing? It needs to be grounded or the car won't start
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Old 05-27-2015, 04:34 PM   #19
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I am thinking bad solenoid.

You have not checked power at the starter while attempting to crank.

Put a voltmeter on the starter power lug. The one with the braid on it.

Turn the key.

Tell me what the voltage at the lug is when the key is turned to the crank position.

It should be around 12 volts.

What you are really checking for is current: if there is not enough current, it wont maintain the 12 volts.

You can also monitor the voltage on the input side of the solenoid. There should be 14 volts before you turn the key and it should drop when you do turn the key.

If you have a clamp on current meter that can handle 100 amps or so, then you could use that instead.

My guess is a bad solenoid. When you actuated the starter on the bench, did you do it by jumping the power to the lug with the braid or did you do it by attaching the jumper cable to the input lug and then use a small jumper to actuate the solenoid.
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Old 05-29-2015, 06:25 PM   #20
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+1 on solenoid.

1 other thing to try to isolate the starter issue... Have you tried to roll or tow start the car? Assuming it's a manual.
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Old 05-30-2015, 08:17 PM   #21
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I'd place my money on the solenoid.

For reference here's a random pic of our starter.


The little spade connector triggers the solenoid. The bottom copper stud connects straight to the battery. The top stud with the wire goes to the motor. I'm assuming if you jump directly to the upper terminal you can get the motor to spin. Use a voltmeter and probe the pole going to the motor and attempt a crank. If you get no power coming out of the starter side of the solenoid, the solenoid is bad.
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Old 05-30-2015, 08:21 PM   #22
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I'd place my money on the solenoid.

For reference here's a random pic of our starter.


The little spade connector triggers the solenoid. The bottom copper stud connects straight to the battery. The top stud with the wire goes to the motor. I'm assuming if you jump directly to the upper terminal you can get the motor to spin. Use a voltmeter and probe the pole going to the motor and attempt a crank. If you get no power coming out of the starter side of the solenoid, the solenoid is bad.
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Old 05-31-2015, 12:04 AM   #23
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Old 05-31-2015, 12:42 AM   #24
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...tom cruise, awkwardly specific to the rescue
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Old 06-01-2015, 12:01 AM   #25
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i have a fa20 starter ill sale just pm me, came off a motor with 14k miles did a swap so no need in it..
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