Got a track related question? I'll try to answer.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by Apex_BRZ

Interesting note that it's post cooler. I tested it last night by cruising in 4th at 5k rpm and saw that it went up, but I never saw past 182. I'm sure it'll be a different story on the track during a 20-30min session.

So...that was the last mod. My car is DONE! Just wanted to say thanks for the help, Mike. You and a couple other people on the forum were a great help in deciding which direction I wanted to take with the car without spending money on things that just aren't necessary for my goals. Now I can focus on getting my other car running (toasted the clutch) and possibly track ready as well. Short of going with a BBK (which I'll decide later after monitoring the brake setup this season), it's a done deal. I'll be going through CSG for all fluids and maintenance items from here on. Thanks again for all the advice!

Mods:
Brakes
Touge Factory Brake Ducting
GT3 Lower Control Arm Air Guides
DBA T3 Rotors
Carbotech XP10 Pads
Spiegler Stainless Lines
KNS/Hard Brakes Titanium Shims

Miscellaneous
Jackson Racing Oil Cooler Kit
Perrin Lightweight Crank, Water, and Alt Pulleys
Perrin Shifter Bushing
Perrin Trans Bushing
Perrin Solid Steering Rack Mounts
Bridgestone Potenza RE-71R Tires (225/45/17)
Enkei RPF01 Wheels (17x7.5)

Fluids
Engine: AMSOIL Signature Series 5W30
Trans: Motul 300V
Diff: AMSOIL Severe Gear 75/90 (will be swapping to Motul 300V next fill)

Let us know if you need a cutch.

The trans should be Gear300, not 300V! If you have 300V in there, please don't continue driving your car...


If you want to do a quick test on the oil temps, do this. Park in your driveway, with a fully warmed up car. Then, turn the car off, and get a hose, and spray down your radiator and oil cooler. Start with a light misting so you don't thermal shock the cooler. Work up to a full on spray, so that you cool all the oil in the cooler.

Then, start your car, and watch your oil temp. It'll plummet as the cooled oil goes past the sensor, and then go back up as warm oil from the engine circulates through.

[superpenguin]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

Try to get at least 500 miles on the car, and change out the fluid in the transmission and differential.

They'll have some metal paste (normal) from breaking in fresh gears.

Sweet, thanks!

[dp1]

It's been a year on original j-hook AP Sprint rotors and 10+ track/ax days + summer street driving since. After 3 track days a week ago, I can now catch a nail on some of the small cracks in the middle of the rotor surface...spare blanks and hw from CSG are getting installed next week (this time trying plain blanks without j-hooks). Will order new spares from CSG soon.

[Teseo]

@CSG Mike
Its possible you can provide a pictures of sitting position for race?
Like how much lengh need for pedals and steering also.
I need some reference
Thanks

[Apex_BRZ]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

The trans should be Gear300, not 300V! If you have 300V in there, please don't continue driving your car...


If you want to do a quick test on the oil temps, do this. Park in your driveway, with a fully warmed up car. Then, turn the car off, and get a hose, and spray down your radiator and oil cooler. Start with a light misting so you don't thermal shock the cooler. Work up to a full on spray, so that you cool all the oil in the cooler.

Then, start your car, and watch your oil temp. It'll plummet as the cooled oil goes past the sensor, and then go back up as warm oil from the engine circulates through.

It's 300, sorry for the typo...and thanks for the warning!

The oil cooler is functioning, the temps fluctuate. I just can't believe it's THAT efficient when it's just trickle flow. When cruising at 70mph, it's 154. Stop at a light, and it can quickly go up to 170+. Today, it was about 20F warmer than when I last drove it. The temps were a little higher when cruising. I put it in 4th for a while and let the rpm sit around 5k and saw 190.

So, my only concern is how cool it seems to be when cruising when it's only suppose to be slightly open. It stabilizes at a low temp, so maybe the actual oil temp is 185 and the thermostat is opening and it's cooling it back down to what I saw cruising around as it passes by the sensor?

Let us know if you need a cutch.

Wouldn't happen to have a smoking good deal on a McLeod RXT or equivalent that is good for about 700tq/900hp would you?

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by Apex_BRZ

It's 300, sorry for the typo...and thanks for the warning!

The oil cooler is functioning, the temps fluctuate. I just can't believe it's THAT efficient when it's just trickle flow. When cruising at 70mph, it's 154. Stop at a light, and it can quickly go up to 170+. Today, it was about 20F warmer than when I last drove it. The temps were a little higher when cruising. I put it in 4th for a while and let the rpm sit around 5k and saw 190.

So, my only concern is how cool it seems to be when cruising when it's only suppose to be slightly open. It stabilizes at a low temp, so maybe the actual oil temp is 185 and the thermostat is opening and it's cooling it back down to what I saw cruising around as it passes by the sensor?



Wouldn't happen to have a smoking good deal on a McLeod RXT or equivalent that is good for about 700tq/900hp would you?

Yes, the thermostat is actually constantly opening and closing, but there is always at least a trickle flow.

If you install an in-line temp gauge on the "pre-oil cooler" line, you can actually see it fluctutate, whereas the post-oil cooler line generally is stable. Some of the cars I drive have this type of gauge, so I can actually see both.

You want that much clutch? O.o

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by Teseo

@CSG Mike
Its possible you can provide a pictures of sitting position for race?
Like how much lengh need for pedals and steering also.
I need some reference
Thanks

It differs with everyone, since torso/leg ratio varies... here's a copy/paste from a guide I sent @dp1.


Move the seat forward, so that when you brace your left foot on the "dead" pedal (left of the clutch), you can put your full foot on the pedal, while having your butt and lower back in complete contact with the bottom of the seat. Next, recline the seat enough so that your shoulders are comfortable. Reverse the head rest if necessary (I do not reverse it). Last, alter your steering wheel position so that when you hold at 9 and 3 o'clock, you have roughly a 90-100 degree bend in your elbows.

It may feel unnatural at first if you're not used to it, but it will give you better control of the car, reduce fatigue, and eliminate the loss of "butt feel". It should also eliminate the need to brace yourself while turning.

[Apex_BRZ]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

Yes, the thermostat is actually constantly opening and closing, but there is always at least a trickle flow.

If you install an in-line temp gauge on the "pre-oil cooler" line, you can actually see it fluctutate, whereas the post-oil cooler line generally is stable. Some of the cars I drive have this type of gauge, so I can actually see both.

You want that much clutch? O.o

Sounds good. As long as the temps sound normal, I'll quit worrying about it.

The clutch is for a supercharged ZO6. Smoked the McLeod RST I had in it last year at a 1/2 mile event.

Thanks for the help!

[superpenguin]

Here's one.

For mixed DD/HPDe driving, which would be better: a set of Adjustable Koni shocks with Swift springs, or an entry level coilover like the ST that doesnt have adjustable damping?

[AZP Installs]

Konis are phenomenal. I also like the Bilstein P14s as well.

Mike

[Apex_BRZ]

Had my track day at Road America. Lots of improvement with a new best time of 2.55:187 in a stock motor/suspension BRZ, but still a lot to learn as well. The new Jackson Racing Oil Cooler worked incredibly well. At Sebring, during a 65F day, I was seeing 286F oil temps. This weekend, at 75F...I was seeing a max of 224F oil temps.

As always, I was fighting with the brakes all day. I have Touge Factory Brake Ducting, DBA T3 rotors, Carbotech XP10/XP8 pads, Speigler Stainless Lines, and Motul RBF600 fluid. I now have a nasty vibration when hitting the brakes. I'm thinking it's inconsistent pad material, but I can't figure out when that could have possible happened as I was being extra careful. The paint markings on the rotors indicate it was approaching 630F. It reached somehwere between 550 and 630F, since the Red paint is turning pink (it isn't white yet).

I'd like someones thoughts on how the rotors look, this was at the track. Now, after a little street driving, it seems the pad isn't hitting the center of the rotor again like the stock pads did when I first installed these rotors (I was told they weren't bedded in properly). I'm not understanding what I'm seeing here or how it's happening. What could be causing the pad to not touch in the center? Why are my brakes pulsing again? I refuse to believe I "warped" the DBA T3's as my friends are suggesting.

[AZP Installs]

Originally Posted by Apex_BRZ

Had my track day at Road America. Lots of improvement with a new best time of 2.55:187 in a stock motor/suspension BRZ, but still a lot to learn as well. The new Jackson Racing Oil Cooler worked incredibly well. At Sebring, during a 65F day, I was seeing 286F oil temps. This weekend, at 75F...I was seeing a max of 224F oil temps.

As always, I was fighting with the brakes all day. I have Touge Factory Brake Ducting, DBA T3 rotors, Carbotech XP10/XP8 pads, Speigler Stainless Lines, and Motul RBF600 fluid. I now have a nasty vibration when hitting the brakes. I'm thinking it's inconsistent pad material, but I can't figure out when that could have possible happened as I was being extra careful. The paint markings on the rotors indicate it was approaching 630F. It reached somehwere between 550 and 630F, since the Red paint is turning pink (it isn't white yet).

I'd like someones thoughts on how the rotors look, this was at the track. Now, after a little street driving, it seems the pad isn't hitting the center of the rotor again like the stock pads did when I first installed these rotors (I was told they weren't bedded in properly). I'm not understanding what I'm seeing here or how it's happening. What could be causing the pad to not touch in the center? Why are my brakes pulsing again? I refuse to believe I "warped" the DBA T3's as my friends are suggesting.

Great to hear your oil cooler is working. I had the same experiences before and after putting in the Perrin/Setrab oil cooler setup on my BRZ.

I also have had the same issue with rotors and pads after running homestead this past winter. Centric premium rotors and hawk street-race pads.

I have since gone to the ST-40 328mm front calipers and rotors and ran Watkins with no brake issues this past week.

It may be time for a BBK even though it may appear as overkill it's nice knowing I won't have issues post track event with them.

Mike

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by Apex_BRZ

Had my track day at Road America. Lots of improvement with a new best time of 2.55:187 in a stock motor/suspension BRZ, but still a lot to learn as well. The new Jackson Racing Oil Cooler worked incredibly well. At Sebring, during a 65F day, I was seeing 286F oil temps. This weekend, at 75F...I was seeing a max of 224F oil temps.

As always, I was fighting with the brakes all day. I have Touge Factory Brake Ducting, DBA T3 rotors, Carbotech XP10/XP8 pads, Speigler Stainless Lines, and Motul RBF600 fluid. I now have a nasty vibration when hitting the brakes. I'm thinking it's inconsistent pad material, but I can't figure out when that could have possible happened as I was being extra careful. The paint markings on the rotors indicate it was approaching 630F. It reached somehwere between 550 and 630F, since the Red paint is turning pink (it isn't white yet).

I'd like someones thoughts on how the rotors look, this was at the track. Now, after a little street driving, it seems the pad isn't hitting the center of the rotor again like the stock pads did when I first installed these rotors (I was told they weren't bedded in properly). I'm not understanding what I'm seeing here or how it's happening. What could be causing the pad to not touch in the center? Why are my brakes pulsing again? I refuse to believe I "warped" the DBA T3's as my friends are suggesting.

You overheated the pads, and the rotors indicate that as well. The pad material is smeared on the rotor, indicating the pads got so hot that it was just melting off, and re-materializing on the rotor surface. The uneven contact is caused by that overheating/melting while the pad is hot (and thus expanded), and now the contact is uneven because in a cold state the pad's shape is different. This is also why race pads have a bit of "give" and make noise when cold; room for expansion is engineered into the pad backing plate.

You should swap to a higher temp pad in the front, and then match the pad in the rear. Report back with your findings after upgrading.

The staggered compound recommendation is faulty, and causes the front to do more work than necessary, overheating just the fronts.

[Apex_BRZ]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

You overheated the pads, and the rotors indicate that as well. The pad material is smeared on the rotor, indicating the pads got so hot that it was just melting off, and re-materializing on the rotor surface. The uneven contact is caused by that overheating/melting while the pad is hot (and thus expanded), and now the contact is uneven because in a cold state the pad's shape is different. This is also why race pads have a bit of "give" and make noise when cold; room for expansion is engineered into the pad backing plate.

You should swap to a higher temp pad in the front, and then match the pad in the rear. Report back with your findings after upgrading.

The staggered compound recommendation is faulty, and causes the front to do more work than necessary, overheating just the fronts.

Thanks, I'll give that a shot.

In the meantime...what do I do about the pulsing? Will a bed-in process shave it nicely and lay on a new, even layer of material on the rotor surface? If it's just pad material, it seems to me I only need to do that to fix this for now (while I work on another solution for the next track day).

Also, this is the first track day I ran the Titanium shims. My guess is they are doing more harm than good by trapping the heat in the pads. Toss them?


EDIT: Also, for anyone NOT doing the "pedal dance"...DO IT. I refused to do it for the first session at RA thinking it wasn't necessary. But during the first session, going down the hill into turn 5, I found out quickly that just having it off by holding the button down is no good. That bumpy hill when being hard on the brakes kept making the stability control flash at me, and every time it did it the back end kept wanting to come right around. Not a great feeling. Doing the pedal dance changed everything, it was consistent, predictable, etc.