WHAT WILL BE THE BEST TUNING TOOL FOR A NITROUS SETUP

[DustinS]

Nitrous Express Kit

Under a grand for the kit.

[Koa]

Originally Posted by Celadrielas

Ok, My question was more specifically why spend a couple of grand. If it's free and you can do it, sure. Why not? But I don't understand the 2-3 grand for a No2 kit when you can you spend ~$3100 and go legit FI if you put the leg work and research in. (one of our local car meet people did a SC kit)

also remember one can combine NOS and FI for a very potent, dynamic setup.

[mad_sb]

If your set on running a bottle then do some research on ecutek.

[themajesticone]

I would try to reach out to the top tuner shops personally and ask them their experience. It seems to be a rare occurrence to include NOS in a build.

[brznoob]

https://plus.google.com/116431783151...ts/fC7LVnj5y9u

Not running the RPM window switch yet as the tech had some setbacks getting the tach signal but looks like will soon be resolved and is totally wired.

[Zex_Frs]

I'm set on running nitrous because I like it don't get me wrong my last car was tirbo and I love it but is play out on the frs already also is supercharge. Most likely because they work really good with the frs. That been said I have talk to my ecu tek tuner but they haven't done any frs on bottle yet so I guess I will be the first one lol I'm just waiting on getting injectors and a pump as the tuner said I needed them to run e85 and the bottle let's see and I will keep you updated on build. And I spray s 75 with my wet zex Kit big difference on performance got me hook!!!

[TylerLieberman]

Friendly advice, make sure you have a laptop that will let you know the status of your manifold and when it's danger.

I didn't do that when I had my NOS installed and my floorpan fell out of my car. Major inconvenience

[Tromatic]

Don't forget to post pics post explosion!

[LS1M]

This is also my first post - well, second post, if you count the "hello world" intro I did last week. I ran nitrous at the drag strip on my Camaro for a couple of years. Cars typically "blow up" because there is too much nitrous in the cylinders at low rpm's. If you activate the nitrous when the rpm's are low, each cylinder gets a bigger fill of nitrous. Too much nitrous, too much torque, you end up with bent connecting rods. So a window switch is important, so you don't activate it until you're up at least over 3000 RPM. I also had mine shut it off just before it shifted, and a time delay on activiation. That was to allow the tranny to shift (didn't want to spray through the shifts) but probably doesn't mean much with a manual transmission. You certainly don't want to be spraying if you hit the rev limiter, because then you will have a major lean condition - all nitrous and no gas = boom! In addition to the window switch you need a throttle switch so you spray only at wide-open throttle. And of course you must make sure you don't run lean. I think that's everything - WOT switch, window switch, delay timer (optional), bottle heater (to make sure the nitrous is at a consistent temperature), and some way to measure your AFR so you're not running too lean. Running too lean will cause a backfire and possibly melt your pistons, running too much nitrous will create more torque than your engine can handle & bend your rods.

Properly installed and functioning, nitrous can be a blast and completely safe. Personally, I found it a pain to have to heat up the bottle, open the valve, purge, check, the solenoids, any time I wanted to use it. It was fine for the track, but too much hastle for a daily driver. It is fun, though...

-Mark

[Zex_Frs]

Originally Posted by LS1M

This is also my first post - well, second post, if you count the "hello world" intro I did last week. I ran nitrous at the drag strip on my Camaro for a couple of years. Cars typically "blow up" because there is too much nitrous in the cylinders at low rpm's. If you activate the nitrous when the rpm's are low, each cylinder gets a bigger fill of nitrous. Too much nitrous, too much torque, you end up with bent connecting rods. So a window switch is important, so you don't activate it until you're up at least over 3000 RPM. I also had mine shut it off just before it shifted, and a time delay on activiation. That was to allow the tranny to shift (didn't want to spray through the shifts) but probably doesn't mean much with a manual transmission. You certainly don't want to be spraying if you hit the rev limiter, because then you will have a major lean condition - all nitrous and no gas = boom! In addition to the window switch you need a throttle switch so you spray only at wide-open throttle. And of course you must make sure you don't run lean. I think that's everything - WOT switch, window switch, delay timer (optional), bottle heater (to make sure the nitrous is at a consistent temperature), and some way to measure your AFR so you're not running too lean. Running too lean will cause a backfire and possibly melt your pistons, running too much nitrous will create more torque than your engine can handle & bend your rods.

Properly installed and functioning, nitrous can be a blast and completely safe. Personally, I found it a pain to have to heat up the bottle, open the valve, purge, check, the solenoids, any time I wanted to use it. It was fine for the track, but too much hastle for a daily driver. It is fun, though...

-Mark

Thanks for the nice write up instead of saying stupid comments like post pics of the explosion, my Zex kit has the tps build in I have a window switch and heater also I had used nitrous before and know to set the windows switch to certain rpm and stuff.

[Zex_Frs]

Originally Posted by Tromatic

Don't forget to post pics post explosion!

Thanks a lot for the stupid response and will do!!! I write a post thinking I get some advised but guess this forum is a joke or the ppl here are

[Zex_Frs]

Can someone tell me how to close down the thread? Tired of dumb stupid response of ppl like supposedly senior members that should help or keep their mouth shut lol!!!