CSG and RCE tag-team suspension Q&A thread! Ask us anything!

[Calum]

Originally Posted by ja1217

Forgot to mention that LCA's are a no-go as I don't have the points for them in NASA's TT system. My problem is that I moved to significantly stiffer springs (had the shocks revalved as well) that don't have as much natural drop as the ones that came with the default Ohlins kit.

You could use a 12 mm camber bolt to make minor adjustments in the back. There was a thread on here a while ago about. I haven't tried it yet so your mileage may vary.

[8R6]

ive noticed a lot of the aftermarket rear LCA's have the holes to mount the strut, end link, and knuckles in different areas, but i havent seen anyone actually use them. its always still in the hole where the "factory setting" is. when/who uses the other holes and why?

[gramicci101]

Originally Posted by ja1217

Forgot to mention that LCA's are a no-go as I don't have the points for them in NASA's TT system. My problem is that I moved to significantly stiffer springs (had the shocks revalved as well) that don't have as much natural drop as the ones that came with the default Ohlins kit.

In that case, I don't know. Would Whiteline upper control arm camber bushings cost you points?

[srizzors25]

Originally Posted by x1UP

After much research, I think i'm just going to save up for Ohlins. Those are godly.

Well that solves that ha those are fantastic

[solidONE]

Originally Posted by Calum

You could use a 12 mm camber bolt to make minor adjustments in the back. There was a thread on here a while ago about. I haven't tried it yet so your mileage may vary.

The h&r bolts got me a plus/minus .5 degree of adjustment.

[Calum]

Originally Posted by solidONE

The h&r bolts got me a plus/minus .5 degree of adjustment.

What is it about the h&r bolts that's different then other bolts?

[solidONE]

Originally Posted by Calum

What is it about the h&r bolts that's different then other bolts?

The washers/spacers does not 'bite' into the mounting holes or subframe like the more common SPC type camber bolt kits do. The locking nut that comes with the kit seems to have a sufficient hold and keeps the bolts in the orientation set. Also on the bolt head, there is a dot indicating the highest point on the lobe, IIRC. Which comes in handy when making adjustments.


SPC bolts.


Notice the little nub in the SPC washer. That nub can bite into the inner portion of the mounting holes and deforms/widens the holes upon installation. Although they pretty much do the same shit besides that different washers.

[Calum]

Thanks. I'll take a grinder to my washers before I put them in.

[Ashikabi]

Hey guys, great sticky. I don't have time to read 250 pages do please forgive me if I'm reasking these questions

How does a stiffer spring rate in the rear(from the front) affect handling? Also how does changing the damper setting affect handling from front to rear? Ie... Stiffer rear springs increase oversteer, increase front damping increases understeer, etc. Spring rates I have are 6k front 7k rear(not going to change these but I want to understand how this will affect AutoX from stock so I can make changes to damping or add other suspension parts like a stiffer sway bar)

[Kostamojen]

Just wanted to update...

Did some testing with the 16mm swaybar with my current setup, and I'm VERY happy with what I have for backroad driving and daily use. Its very neutral yet very forgiving and still a crap ton of grip without a horrible ride.

I'm going to hold off any other upgrades until I do some autox this year and see if I really want to do anything right now... I'll probably just do the Bilstein B8's in the future with the tophats, and I'm contemplating some more suspension bushings to eliminate some slop (probably get some swaybar bushings soon, thats the only immediate thing).

I'll focus more on power upgrades for now and maybe brakes.

[Zacharary]

Just wondering if anyone knows a part number or suitable replacement for the little cap that goes over the top bolt of the front struts? (Missing in picture, which I found on the net)

[Myv]

Complete noob here, I'm interested in finally dropping the car (1" - 1.5" nothing more), I would say it's 90% DD (might see track just for fun with friends) and also driven in winter.

I'm thinking of purchasing coilovers, so it's important for it to have some rust protection. I could change to stocks every winter, but I'm going to assume I'll have to get an alignment every time this happens which is quite annoying.

My main question is, are there any other products I will require other than just the coilovers for my wheel specs below, like camber plates/bolt, LCA/UCA, etc. to make sure the suspension and handling functionality and adjustments are not out of whack. Functionality over looks is what I'm going for.

Summer
Front: 18x8.5 +33 (225/40/18)
Rear: 18x9.5 +40 (255/35/18)

Winter
Stock with winter tires

[Ashikabi]

@Myv for a 1.5inch drop you won't need anything extra. Nice coilovers have camber adjustment up front anyways. For that short of a drop you can get any brand coilovers. Just make sure they adjust from the bottom. I expect any $800+ coilovers will have this feature. I run Stance. I've heard great things about KW. Tein is a big name and Fortune500 is loved by the S2k crowd. All coilovers are powdercoated, rust in the winter should not be a problem, I'd run them year round.

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by Myv

Complete noob here, I'm interested in finally dropping the car (1" - 1.5" nothing more), I would say it's 90% DD (might see track just for fun with friends) and also driven in winter.

I'm thinking of purchasing coilovers, so it's important for it to have some rust protection. I could change to stocks every winter, but I'm going to assume I'll have to get an alignment every time this happens which is quite annoying.

My main question is, are there any other products I will require other than just the coilovers for my wheel specs below, like camber plates/bolt, LCA/UCA, etc. to make sure the suspension and handling functionality and adjustments are not out of whack. Functionality over looks is what I'm going for.

For functionality I wouldn't recommend those wheel specs. That's too wide IMO and I don't recommend staggered.

Some coilovers deal with salt/winter better than others. KW and our RCE coilovers are virtually rustproof while others WILL rust if they're not looked after.

Many coilovers come with camber plates, some do not. KW and our RCE coilover have a slotted lower mount to allow camber adjustment and then you can reuse stock mounts or add camber plates for even more adjustment. Depending on how much camber you want, camber plates may not be necessary. For the rear, adjustment is recommended and either the Whiteline rear camber adjuster bushing or adjustable lower control arms are your options.

- Andy