DIY: Whiteline Anti Lift Kit Install

[RallySport Direct]

We took our employee’s 2013 BRZ out to the shop to install the Whiteline Anti Lift Kit for the 2013-2014 Scion FR-S and Subaru BRZ. So we looked online to find the installation instructions and decided we would make a fairly comprehensive write-up for you!

Going into this, pressing the bushings out and back in seemed a little difficult, but once we got started, they pressed right out, and right back in. Guess that’s the beauty of having a new car to work on. Before we get started let’s see what Whiteline has to say about this product:

The Whiteline Anti Dive Kit is designed to add 0.5 deg static positive caster to both front wheels while changing the nature of front anti-dive & lift. These low compliance bushings also maintain higher dynamic positive caster & change the front control arm geometry that positively influences front suspension attitude. This leads to superior traction under power and braking, including cornering, dramatically reducing under steer & front wheel spin. The additional caster coupled with the new firmer bushings supplied serve to dramatically sharpen initial turn-in response then forcing more consistent alignment angles through the corner due to the reduced bushing compliance.

So we looked around the shop and found that the only thing we didn't have was the press kit to press the bushings out. So every other tool we needed was just laying around to make it easy on us. Here’s what we ended up using.

Keep in mind; you will have to get your car off the ground, securely on jack stands and front tires/wheels off the car to do this installation.

1) ½ in drive ratchet
2) Extensions
3) 17mm, 19mm sockets
4) Vice grips (for that pesky cotter pin removal)
5) Needle nosed pliers
6) Flat tip screw driver (small)
7) Drill with 10mm driver and 12mm driver (for removal of under tray)
8) Pickle fork
9) Hammer
10) Impact (not necessary, but makes things easier)
Here’s a picture of most of the tools we used. We didn’t use the pry bar, but it made it into the picture somehow.



Ok, now we’re getting somewhere. Since we didn't have the press toll required to press out the bushings, we ran down to AutoZone and grabbed one of these, it worked great!




Now that we have all of the necessary tools, let’s get started. First thing we need to take off is the under tray of the car to gain access to the bolts to take the lower control arm. It’s simply 8 12mm bolts, 4 10mm bolts and 6 plastic clips and it comes right off. Be careful as it might just fall off when you get the last bolt loose.


To get the clips off, simply slide a small flat tip screwdriver in the head and pop it out and it should slide right out.

There are five nuts/bolts that need to come off to get the lower control arm out. Some are 19mm and some are 17mm you see which is which once you get started. Here’s a shot of the control arm from below that shows you roughly where they are.


Bend the cotter pin as such that it slides out from the hole.

Now take the castle nut off.


Now that the nut is loose, just tap the top of the ball joint being careful not to damage the threads, and it should pop right out.



Now we can move to the front of the car and undo the bolt and nut that holds the front/lower control arm bushing in place (this is the one we are replacing)




Pull the pin out of the ball joint that connect to the hub spindle.


Then, simply break the nut loose and thread it off.



Now take your pickle fork and spread the ball joint loose. This shouldn’t take a whole lot of effort.



Now we can move on to the rear bolt/nut. Just get a ratchet on one end and wrench on the other and it should come right out.



Now that we have it loose, let’s go ahead and pull it out. The whole assembly is now ready to come out of the car.



Just wiggle it a little bit and it will come right out.


Phew, now the fun part begins



Take the whole arm assembly over to the press (or use the tool in the kit) and get that factory bushing out! You will want to press it out with the arm upside down, and press the new one in with the control arm right ride up. We used the #1 and #2 press sleeves for this process. Here’s how we had it lined up, with the #1 on the bottom and #2 on the top.



We found out that the bushing would only press out around 3mm then we had to press right on the bushing itself (the soft part) it seemed sketchy at first but it started moving and popped right out.



Next we pressed the new bushing in. when we first attempted to get it to go in, it almost immediately so we adjusted the approach and it seemed to work perfectly.



You can see here how we ended up pressing it in. It might look dangerous, but it worked perfectly.


Now press it all the way so the lip is fully seated against the control arm.



Now we need to lube up the bushing so we can slide the sleeve in.



Also, lube up the two outer bushings as well.



We can slide the sleeve into the bushing now. Just approach it at an angle and work it in and it should slide in with little effort.



Push the outer bushings onto the sleeve.



There you have it, now the arm is ready to install back onto the car.



Here we are placing the assembly back onto the car. It seemed to be easiest to slide the forward most bushing in place first, then slide the rear on in, then work on the ball joint into the spindle.



Line up the hole in the rear of the control arm and slide the bolt in and thread the nut. Don’t tighten it down just yet.



Take your front bolt/nut/plate and replace them in the front position, keep these loose as well (for now)



Then slide the ball joint into the hub assembly might be slightly tricky, but it will slide in.



Place the tie rod end in the rear of the spindle.



Thread on all respective nuts and tighten them to factory specifications.





You can replace the under tray and you’re ready to go! That wasn’t so bad, was it? Now you can enjoy the benefits of having the anti-lift kit installed! Get your car on the track and experience the difference this product makes in handling!



For more information on the Whiteline Anti Lift Kit, please click here!

Thanks,
Corby

[zc06_kisstherain]

[wootwoot]

How about a review and diy on that whiteline roll center correction kit?

[RallySport Direct]

Originally Posted by wootwoot

How about a review and diy on that whiteline roll center correction kit?

We did the write up on it at the same time as these. No review at this time as I don't think Kyle has driven the car since we have installed all of these parts. Hopefully we should be able to get one up soon

Here is the DIY on the Roll Center
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=48718

Thanks,
Rick

[YouShallKnow]

Just did this install, ended up destroying my ball joint boot with the pickle fork. I had no idea it was even a risk.

If you use a pickle fork be aware of the possibility of damaging the ball joint boot, if you do, you'll have to replace the entire ball joint, they do not sell the boot separately, and Toyota has started selling them WITH the entire control arm, which is over $200, making this a very expensive replacement.

Although you can special order JUST the ball joints for around ~$25 per, just be prepared to wait a few days.

I ruined mine on a Saturday evening, meaning all the parts departments were closed for Sunday, so I'll be out of my car until at least Monday night.

If you do this, understand that there is significant risk of destroying the ball joint boot with the pickle fork. Also, it takes TREMENDOUS effort to separate the ball joint, but I had 70k miles on mine, OP did his on a new one.

Also, DON'T USE A PICKLE FORK. It's maybe the worst tool for this job. From googling, it seems seasoned mechanics just hit the side of the hub assembly with a 3 pound sledge a few times, should pop it right out (which is what ended up working for me).

Also, there are many better tools for the job, this one seems to be the best as far as I can tell, but I haven't used it.

http://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-qua...tor-99849.html

[was385]

Originally Posted by YouShallKnow

Just did this install, ended up destroying my ball joint boot with the pickle fork. I had no idea it was even a risk.

If you use a pickle fork be aware of the possibility of damaging the ball joint boot, if you do, you'll have to replace the entire ball joint, they do not sell the boot separately, and Toyota has started selling them WITH the entire control arm, which is over $200, making this a very expensive replacement.

Although you can special order JUST the ball joints for around ~$25 per, just be prepared to wait a few days.

I ruined mine on a Saturday evening, meaning all the parts departments were closed for Sunday, so I'll be out of my car until at least Monday night.

If you do this, understand that there is significant risk of destroying the ball joint boot with the pickle fork. Also, it takes TREMENDOUS effort to separate the ball joint, but I had 70k miles on mine, OP did his on a new one.

Also, DON'T USE A PICKLE FORK. It's maybe the worst tool for this job. From googling, it seems seasoned mechanics just hit the side of the hub assembly with a 3 pound sledge a few times, should pop it right out (which is what ended up working for me).

Also, there are many better tools for the job, this one seems to be the best as far as I can tell, but I haven't used it.

http://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-qua...tor-99849.html

Can't agree with this enough. Unfortunately I didn't see it before giving this a go and ran into the same issue. As a whole, this is a pretty difficult install on car with 38k miles on it. Took a ton of force and pb blaster.

[continuecrushing]

so the hole on the whiteline bushing is off-center, right?

How do you make sure you press the bushing in correctly/facing the correct way?

Could it be adjusted?

[YouShallKnow]

Originally Posted by Shutter

so the hole on the whiteline bushing is off-center, right?

How do you make sure you press the bushing in correctly/facing the correct way?

Could it be adjusted?

The hole is off center, you have to just line it up by sight, it was kinda nerve wracking.

Theoretically you could press it out of the control arm and press it back in with a different orientation to adjust, but the hassle of removing the control arm (specifically the ball joints) makes this unrealistic.