N/A build pros and cons... - Page 2 - Toyota GR86, 86, FR-S and Subaru BRZ Forum & Owners Community

torqdork · 03-13-2015, 12:43 AM

After looking at your garage, the two things that I'd consider first are swapping the tires and wheels for something smaller and lighter. From what info is available, the tires weigh 29 lbs., wheels are also 29 lbs. per corner. That's a lot of unsprung rotating mass to get moving.

If they fit, I'd be going for 16", no bigger than 17", and max width of 225's. Most likely you'd save over 20 lbs. per corner, something you'd notice in every performance aspect of the car. It might not meet your visual needs, but after selling the existing setup the net cost would be less than regearing with better overall results.

FRSfan111 · 03-13-2015, 12:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TRD_Demon527

I upgraded to EBC brakes and rotors changed to the wrx 4piston calipers in the front. I stop on a dime. My suspension is coilovers swaybars strut bars and various components. The list of stuff done so far is posted in my garage with the photos.

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Sounds like a great start. In that case I highly recommend an oil cooler.
Engines get toasty on the track.

Perrin or mishimoto are good options. I have the mishimoto myself and a koyo radiator. Stock rad is fine for na but I wanted to stay cool when drafting.

jdmblood · 03-13-2015, 12:45 AM

Pros:
-reliability

Cons:
-no power lmao
-very expensive

TRD_Demon527 · 03-13-2015, 12:46 AM

I like the wheels n tires n I only use them for track days n autocross. Reason they have been on for the past few days is to break them in. For the weight and width it works for me. I normally use the stock wheels for daily use.

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TRD_Demon527 · 03-13-2015, 12:49 AM

My next batch of upgrades will end up being all about cooling and sir displacement. I'm getting a thermostatic oil cooler sandwich and I have a cooler. Just need to make lines.

I'm making a front splitter. Nothing crazy I want to upgrade the radiator and reduce the temp.

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FRSfan111 · 03-13-2015, 02:54 AM

Koyo radiator works wonders. Priced competivly, direct oem fitment, and about 3 times the size of the original radiator. Took 2 full bottles of Subaru blue coolant and a bottle of water wetter once all the air bubbles were worked out. Only sad thing isn't our radiators aren't visable as the heater core sits in front of them then my oil cooler. Inside the engine bay they sit under the core support lol. So only visable from just the right angle if the hoods up. Sneaky though!

TJ3000 · 03-13-2015, 03:07 AM

There's a whole lot more mods for N/A than you probably thought

Here's a few more...
-Throttle Body
-Balanced Crank Shaft
-Final Drive Ratio
-Stroker Kit
-High Comp Pistons (But comp is high enough)
-Oil Cooler
-Bigger Radiator

My question though is why do you want power if your going N/A? For a 4 cylinder car with not much torque if it's N/A your building the goal is Mid Range Punch Quick Revs and Balance not power.

TJ3000 · 03-13-2015, 03:08 AM

I forgot to mention changing your fuel injectors and fuel pump too.

donoman · 03-13-2015, 01:08 PM

Dont do it!!! Put that money into your daughters college fund. Or just buy a faster car.

Reason: you'll never get your money back on mods. You can get your money back on faster cars. And the mods you're gonna need to get more power are pretty involved.

TRD_Demon527 · 03-13-2015, 01:12 PM

My daughter has a age fund already. And I tend to keep the cars I build or restore.

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adamg · 03-13-2015, 01:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by donoman

Dont do it!!! Put that money into your daughters college fund. Or just buy a faster car.

Reason: you'll never get your money back on mods. You can get your money back on faster cars. And the mods you're gonna need to get more power are pretty involved.

Its not all about the money/investment. for some of us its about doing something different and having fun while doing it. Its also about the learning experience.

TRD_Demon527 · 03-13-2015, 01:22 PM

👍👍👍 nailed it right on the head @adamg

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gramicci101 · 03-13-2015, 01:32 PM

You're pretty much there for NA, other than a header. Get a catless header, flash for stage 2 with BPBs, and you're good to go. Beyond that, you start getting into ethanol, flex-fuel systems, and engine internals.

You can also lighten the rotating mass. Flywheel, driveshaft, wheels and tires. Those will really change the response and feel of the car, because you can put more of the power you do have to the ground.

TRD_Demon527 · 03-13-2015, 01:34 PM

I am in the market for a header actually. Just don't kno where to go at the moment

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03-13-2015, 02:54 AM	#20
FRSfan111 Sideways and smiling! Join Date: Jan 2012 Drives: First 86 FRS 5/8/2012 (second US) Location: Oregon Posts: 941 Thanks: 17 Thanked 273 Times in 179 Posts Mentioned: 15 Post(s) Tagged: 0 Thread(s)	Koyo radiator works wonders. Priced competivly, direct oem fitment, and about 3 times the size of the original radiator. Took 2 full bottles of Subaru blue coolant and a bottle of water wetter once all the air bubbles were worked out. Only sad thing isn't our radiators aren't visable as the heater core sits in front of them then my oil cooler. Inside the engine bay they sit under the core support lol. So only visable from just the right angle if the hoods up. Sneaky though! __________________ My build http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showt...08#post1283608

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03-13-2015, 12:43 AM	#15
torqdork Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2013 Drives: RV-7 Location: Out West Posts: 1,818 Thanks: 1,042 Thanked 893 Times in 562 Posts Mentioned: 45 Post(s) Tagged: 1 Thread(s)	After looking at your garage, the two things that I'd consider first are swapping the tires and wheels for something smaller and lighter. From what info is available, the tires weigh 29 lbs., wheels are also 29 lbs. per corner. That's a lot of unsprung rotating mass to get moving. If they fit, I'd be going for 16", no bigger than 17", and max width of 225's. Most likely you'd save over 20 lbs. per corner, something you'd notice in every performance aspect of the car. It might not meet your visual needs, but after selling the existing setup the net cost would be less than regearing with better overall results.

03-13-2015, 12:45 AM	#17
jdmblood Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2013 Drives: white subaru brz Location: miami Posts: 825 Thanks: 158 Thanked 289 Times in 183 Posts Mentioned: 14 Post(s) Tagged: 2 Thread(s)	Pros: -reliability Cons: -no power lmao -very expensive

03-13-2015, 03:07 AM	#21
TJ3000 Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2013 Drives: MT Raven Black FRS Location: Rancho Cucamonga Posts: 209 Thanks: 325 Thanked 98 Times in 57 Posts Mentioned: 35 Post(s) Tagged: 0 Thread(s)	There's a whole lot more mods for N/A than you probably thought Here's a few more... -Throttle Body -Balanced Crank Shaft -Final Drive Ratio -Stroker Kit -High Comp Pistons (But comp is high enough) -Oil Cooler -Bigger Radiator My question though is why do you want power if your going N/A? For a 4 cylinder car with not much torque if it's N/A your building the goal is Mid Range Punch Quick Revs and Balance not power.

03-13-2015, 03:08 AM	#22
TJ3000 Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2013 Drives: MT Raven Black FRS Location: Rancho Cucamonga Posts: 209 Thanks: 325 Thanked 98 Times in 57 Posts Mentioned: 35 Post(s) Tagged: 0 Thread(s)	I forgot to mention changing your fuel injectors and fuel pump too.

03-13-2015, 01:08 PM	#23
donoman Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2015 Drives: '13 FR-S Location: San Jose, CA Posts: 277 Thanks: 6 Thanked 87 Times in 48 Posts Mentioned: 3 Post(s) Tagged: 0 Thread(s)	Dont do it!!! Put that money into your daughters college fund. Or just buy a faster car. Reason: you'll never get your money back on mods. You can get your money back on faster cars. And the mods you're gonna need to get more power are pretty involved.

03-13-2015, 01:32 PM	#27
gramicci101 Off Topic Join Date: Feb 2014 Drives: 2014 Subaru BRZ Limited Location: Vegas, baby! Posts: 4,610 Thanks: 2,369 Thanked 4,243 Times in 2,170 Posts Mentioned: 43 Post(s) Tagged: 3 Thread(s)	You're pretty much there for NA, other than a header. Get a catless header, flash for stage 2 with BPBs, and you're good to go. Beyond that, you start getting into ethanol, flex-fuel systems, and engine internals. You can also lighten the rotating mass. Flywheel, driveshaft, wheels and tires. Those will really change the response and feel of the car, because you can put more of the power you do have to the ground.

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