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| Mechanical Maintenance (Oil, Fluids, Break-In, Servicing) Everything related to the mechanical maintenance of the FR-S and BRZ |
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#15 |
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I meant about the AT being higher CCA. I know the MT is 390 like you said and wondered what battery the mt had and if it was the same one or different
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#16 |
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I have a battery charger from Stanley 450 AMP.......
How do I use that... If I clip positive to positive and negative to negative.. wait 5 min and start the car... it does the clicking sound. bat charger is full.... lol
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#17 |
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What you have is likely a Jump starter that is intended for just starting the car, not charging the battery. If common batteries could be fully charged that fast we could have a lot more electric cars. If it is fully charged (and the switch to ON of course), you should be able to hook it to the terminals and start it up. No waiting 5 minutes. I would check the terminals of the jumper and see what kind of voltage you have. If the voltage looks good, and you are still not cranking, you could have something other than the battery keeping you from starting.
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#18 | |
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I have an extra security installed, I think it might be refusing the car to start. Though, I don't think it's the main reason. Since putting the key in overwrites the security. So I really don't know. Am I suppose to try starting the car 5 times in a row for a period of 3 seconds?
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#19 |
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Hey @Mikeez , is your car in a garage that is above freezing? If not you may have a bigger issue if you have had temperatures like ours the last couple of weeks. A dead battery can freeze. Anybody that has ever tried to boost a frozen battery can support me in the fact that the results can not be pretty. If your car is outside or in an unheated garage you may very well be frozen by now.
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#20 |
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I have a automatic transmission and the battery is 390 cca Panasonic and had to replace it a week ago.
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#21 | |
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I got to start the car with a 1500 amp power pack
Quote:
How old is the batter?
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| The Following User Says Thank You to Mikeez For This Useful Post: | Tcoat (03-08-2015) |
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#22 |
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For all of you using these high cranking jump systems to start your car with a dead battery: IF you "quick jump" a dead car then leave the car to charge the battery all by itself, get ready to buy a new alternator.
Alternators are not designed to charge a dead battery. You might get away with it once or twice, but it is definitely something you are told to NOT do by the alternator manufacturer. If you have a completely dead battery, you should disconnect it from the car (make sure it is NOT frozen) and trickle charge it at a low amp rate (2amps) for 30 hours before hooking it back up. 60 Amp-hour battery => 2 Amps * 30 hours = 60 Amp-hours |
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#23 |
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I bought the car in June when they first came out so it's a 2013 model
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#24 | |
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Quote:
You've not changed the battery since then? Check battery acid level, =p
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#25 |
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I don't have the old battery anymore, turned it in for a $12 core refund but it looked good when I checked the level though.
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#26 | |
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You dont HAVE to, but since youve gone through all the trouble, why not?
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Even being the source for the jumpstart can stress an alternator if the car being jumped is totally dead. If the battery is completely dead, (nothing even clicks) then it should be charged by something other than the car. ANd IF you have a monster alternator that can output a kajillion amps, then it would stress the battery to charge it from completely dead. |
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#27 | ||
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#28 |
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My car sat for about three weeks outside before the battery died - as in dead dead, couldn't even unlock the doors from the remote - and there were days where we didn't get above 20*F and nights that were near 0, so I'm not terribly surprised. I swapped in an older Odyssey PC680 last night (not ideal, only 170CCA) as a temporary measure until I pick up a Shorai LFX36L3-BS12 (540cca). This car isn't a daily and will be connected to a maintainer, so the LiFEPO battery should be up to the task.
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