Lowered. Boosted. Jdm. Its so shiny it hurts my eyes - LSX SWAPPED! V-8 Turbo!

[j0hnnybk01]

I want that kit on my car ! The price is really good but idk how long the turbo will last .

[Amir Ghadiri]

Originally Posted by j0hnnybk01

I want that kit on my car ! The price is really good but idk how long the turbo will last .

The CX turbos are fine in general, and the FRS/BRZ kit comes with one of their better ball bearing turbos. I know people with 20k+ hard miles at 18-20psi on the same unit. It will last

[j0hnnybk01]

Nice ! if that's the case i might bite the bullet on the kit early next year . how is the boost response ? What rpm is full boost ?

[mmmcambelsoup]

@Amir Ghadiri i just picked up some rpf1's 18x9.5 squared.. and was contemplating on tire size. I was going to run 245/35/18 (on ST coils). Then I saw your build with 265/35/18 (sex). But what I want to know is, did you need any fender work or cutting to make that fit? Do you rub on dips?

[Amir Ghadiri]

Originally Posted by j0hnnybk01

Nice ! if that's the case i might bite the bullet on the kit early next year . how is the boost response ? What rpm is full boost ?

Hey, sorry I never noticed this post! Boost response is actually really good, I'll be at full boost 10psi by 2.7-3k. I've had the kit on the car for a while now and I'm still very happy with it!

[Amir Ghadiri]

Originally Posted by mmmcambelsoup

@Amir Ghadiri i just picked up some rpf1's 18x9.5 squared.. and was contemplating on tire size. I was going to run 245/35/18 (on ST coils). Then I saw your build with 265/35/18 (sex). But what I want to know is, did you need any fender work or cutting to make that fit? Do you rub on dips?

Hey, sorry I never noticed this post! Depending on how low you are you may or may not need to roll your rear fenders. At stock ride height or maybe 1" lower, you won't need to. Any lower and you should roll. You won't need to roll the front either way! The front will rub at first, but if you let them roll naturally it will go away completely and the fender will come out looking very nice (much better than rolling with the tool).

With stock tie rods front, you won't rub on the inside. With extended tie rods, you will rub on the inside. I'm personally running 15mm spacers on the front so I'm good either way.

[Amir Ghadiri]

So the car has been smoking ALOT out of the FBM Catch can lately, so I already knew we had problems. I removed all turbo components to have them ceramic coated, and while I had the engine bay clear I lifted the motor to check compression. Upon testing I found compression at 140,170,160,150 PSI. Oh no!

Time for a rebuild! These parts will be going in then we'll tune for 18PSI pump.
JE Pistons 10.5:1
Brian Crower Connecting Rods - I-Beam Extreme w/ARP Custom Age 625+
GSC Power-Division Beehive Spring Kit
ARP Head Studs
DeatschWerks 900cc Injectors
DeatschWerks DW65C Fuel Pump

Stay tuned!

[Amir Ghadiri]

Also, I just picked up this Porsche 944 (1985.5 w/ 112K miles) this past Sunday. I'm going to build this as a cheap, bare bones AutoX/time attack car. Plans are as follow:
Stripped interior
Aluminum Dash
Kirkey Aluminum Bucket Seats
AC delete
New suspension

Stay tuned for updates on this as well, I'll update it on this thread.

[hmong337]

How much power were you running till you started losing compression? It just seems like these motors can't take much boost for very long. Do you run the car hard on track days or is it primarily a street car being blasted here and there?

[mmmcambelsoup]

Originally Posted by Amir Ghadiri

Hey, sorry I never noticed this post! Depending on how low you are you may or may not need to roll your rear fenders. At stock ride height or maybe 1" lower, you won't need to. Any lower and you should roll. You won't need to roll the front either way! The front will rub at first, but if you let them roll naturally it will go away completely and the fender will come out looking very nice (much better than rolling with the tool).

With stock tie rods front, you won't rub on the inside. With extended tie rods, you will rub on the inside. I'm personally running 15mm spacers on the front so I'm good either way.

All good, lol I ended up w/ 245/35/18 already. Def doing 265 next time around to make it more comfortable of a ride and flush. I appreciate the knowledge drop

[Amir Ghadiri]

Originally Posted by mmmcambelsoup

All good, lol I ended up w/ 245/35/18 already. Def doing 265 next time around to make it more comfortable of a ride and flush. I appreciate the knowledge drop

38 offset right? Depending on how close to 0 camber you want to be you may want to go with a 255 instead of a 265. If you're running stock control arms anyways then stick with the 265 as you'll have no camber adjustments and be stuck with some negative rear camber.

[Amir Ghadiri]

Originally Posted by hmong337

How much power were you running till you started losing compression? It just seems like these motors can't take much boost for very long. Do you run the car hard on track days or is it primarily a street car being blasted here and there?

300 WHP on 10 PSI boost. Also, I had a boost spike once a few months ago (27psi) and that is when I started to lose compression. That combined with very hard track (drift) use with very high temperatures contributed to the failure.

At the time, the car had a FBM Radiator, FBM aluminum fan shroud, and slim fans. Now it also has an engine oil cooler, but the damage has already been done.

[mmmcambelsoup]

Originally Posted by Amir Ghadiri

38 offset right? Depending on how close to 0 camber you want to be you may want to go with a 255 instead of a 265. If you're running stock control arms anyways then stick with the 265 as you'll have no camber adjustments and be stuck with some negative rear camber.

You hit the nail on the head, stock camber arms.. For now I dont mind the natural negative camber, so 265's it is. My rpf1's are the same exact specs as yours in SBC. Do you know if the wider tire 265>245 makes for a smoother ride?

[Amir Ghadiri]

Originally Posted by mmmcambelsoup

You hit the nail on the head, stock camber arms.. For now I dont mind the natural negative camber, so 265's it is. My rpf1's are the same exact specs as yours in SBC. Do you know if the wider tire 265>245 makes for a smoother ride?

I've never had 245's on my car so I can't say for certain, however I'm almost positive the answer is yes. If you're running the same suspension on both tire sizes, I would assume that you having a larger contact patch would contribute to a smoother ride. I doubt it would be that noticeable though.

On a side note, my friend German has the same wheels as us and he went from 245 to 265 and is definitely happier with the 265's.