SCCA Solo C Street Discussion

[Shark_Bait88]

There seems to be some confusion here.

The 2.0L has 155hp.

The 1.5L has 131hp.

The Twins have a slightly better power:weight than the 2.0L.

More detailed specs are available here: http://jalopnik.com/2016-mazda-miata...-to-1682771004

[G_Ride]

Originally Posted by CatDaddysBBQ

I think so far the press has only had the chance to drive the Japan market base model 1.5 motor though - they haven't released numbers on the 2.0 that the US and Europe gets, so even though it's doubtful to make 200hp, I'd wager that it will make enough to beat the twins in power:weight. It only needs like, 155hp to tie.

Originally Posted by Shark_Bait88

There seems to be some confusion here.

The 2.0L has 155hp.

The 1.5L has 131hp.

The Twins have a slightly better power:weight than the 2.0L.

More detailed specs are available here: http://jalopnik.com/2016-mazda-miata...-to-1682771004

Let's not forget about torque. Peak torque is almost the same as our cars. I'm just wondering what that torque curve looks like and what the gearing will be in ND.

[renfield90]

Originally Posted by G_Ride

Let's not forget about torque. Peak torque is almost the same as our cars. I'm just wondering what that torque curve looks like and what the gearing will be in ND.

Originally Posted by renfield90

$100 says no torque dip and 60+ MPH in second gear.

.

[Rampage]

All the automotive publications are stating 155HP and 148FT/LB. The 1.5 did 61MPH in 2nd gear at 7500RPM. With only 155hp, I do not see this car going to BS. It looks to me like it will be a solid fit in CS for solo and T4 for club road racing.

I am surprised that Mazda did not try to squeeze more HP out of it for the MX-5 but at the same time impressed with them sticking to the original intent of the car.

[G_Ride]

Originally Posted by renfield90

.

Maybe. The only way we'll know for sure is when they're released and dyno graphs start showing up.

Originally Posted by Rampage

All the automotive publications are stating 155HP and 148FT/LB. The 1.5 did 61MPH in 2nd gear at 7500RPM. With only 155hp, I do not see this car going to BS. It looks to me like it will be a solid fit in CS for solo and T4 for club road racing.

I am surprised that Mazda did not try to squeeze more HP out of it for the MX-5 but at the same time impressed with them sticking to the original intent of the car.

You're probably right. With what we know, the ND really does sound like a CS car.

[bimmer635csi]

Originally Posted by Rampage

I am surprised that Mazda did not try to squeeze more HP out of it for the MX-5 but at the same time impressed with them sticking to the original intent of the car.

They may have used the old insurance trick. Leave the "rated" horsepower low, but let the real horsepower fly off unbridled (pun intended).

[Quentin]

Originally Posted by bimmer635csi

They may have used the old insurance trick. Leave the "rated" horsepower low, but let the real horsepower fly off unbridled (pun intended).

Unlikely. Insurance isn't going to give a crap if it is rated for 155 or 180hp. These days, they only care about the safety ratings, how often it is wrecked, and how much it costs to fix. They may look at the Hellcat and immediately assume that it will be wrecked often and spectacularly, but not the Miata.


Sent from Tandy 400

[CatDaddysBBQ]

Absolutely. I'll bet it's right about the same if side by side, but will likely feel faster than the twins from the drivers seat.

[bslate3]

I'm trying figure out what front sway bar to get.

I thought the Strano bar would be best, but I hear of people selling them all the time.
Is it just too big?

The 20mm Whiteline adjustable bar with adjustable end links looks like the best deal. I might just get that.

I don't have Koni shocks and I don't plan to get any for a while so I want to make sure I get the best bar for the stock shocks. I don't want to create too much understeer.

I know a lot of it comes down to driving style.

[Shark_Bait88]

Originally Posted by bslate3

I'm trying figure out what front sway bar to get.

I thought the Strano bar would be best, but I hear of people selling them all the time.
Is it just too big?

The 20mm Whiteline adjustable bar with adjustable end links looks like the best deal. I might just get that.

I don't have Koni shocks and I don't plan to get any for a while so I want to make sure I get the best bar for the stock shocks. I don't want to create too much understeer.

I know a lot of it comes down to driving style.

I'm going to be re-evaluating which option I'm going with after my first event on some new tires, but I will likely go with the adjustable Whiteline 20mm. From what I can tell it seems like the best solution/deal.

[Briankbot]

Originally Posted by Shark_Bait88

I'm going to be re-evaluating which option I'm going with after my first event on some new tires, but I will likely go with the adjustable Whiteline 20mm. From what I can tell it seems like the best solution/deal.

I went with a Perrin FSB. I'm not sure it is the best bar for the class/my driving style, but I was chatting with vroom4 about some used parts and he was able to hook a good deal on a new one. It might be worth PMing him to see if he can do it again...

[qoncept]

I was running the Whiteline 22mm front bar last year and it was definitely too stiff, and I was on race tires. I ran a couple events with it this year on street tires and then switched to Strano with I'd say mild understeer. If I had it to do over again I'd stick with the stock bar for a while, but I sure as hell don't want to replace it again.

[G_Ride]

Originally Posted by qoncept

I was running the Whiteline 22mm front bar last year and it was definitely too stiff, and I was on race tires. I ran a couple events with it this year on street tires and then switched to Strano with I'd say mild understeer. If I had it to do over again I'd stick with the stock bar for a while, but I sure as hell don't want to replace it again.

I'm with you about the pain of replacing the sway bar. I remember thinking it should be an easy and quick job. It wasn't fun changing it by myself with the car on jack stands. I'm not a thin guy...

[travisb]

I'm getting ready to order some new tires and wheels. The car is currently stock except for front camber bolts.

I'm leaning towards 215/45 ZII and 17x7 Kosei K4R wheels. I plan on leaving these wheels and tires on Spring-Fall and switching back to stock during winter.

I drive about 15k miles per year and live near Richmond, VA (hot summers and occasional heavy rain, warm Spring and Fall). I plan on doing about 10 autox events per year - each one with 5-6 runs of less than 60 seconds each. The asphalt is usually rough and not a ton of grip on normal tires.

Does this sound like a good plan? What kind of life expectancy can I expect from the tires? Is it worth going wider tires/wheels? I'm not going for FTD, I just want a lot less sliding than last year.