Ca-Fi Dashlinq4 Android 4.1.1 Car Stereo - WHOA BABY!

[SilverlightPony]

Yeah, let's keep this thread about the Dashlinq4 itself, shall we?

[Naeblis]

Originally Posted by E1c

Tasker continues working for you after standby?
For me it seems that every app is killed during standby, except the standard radio app...

A better standby behaviour should be implemented, like on parrot asteroid smart.

Is there a way to save the last status of an app? Maybe with tasker? So that tasker automatically recreates the last status?

Hm, explaining in german is much easier Maybe someone understands me

For me both tasked and Waze stay open during standby. Spotify is always closed, but those two never are. No idea why one will stay open while another app closes.

[Bigmaxy]

Has anyone had a problem with the usb stop working? The wifi one seems fine still.
Was working fine except I would find Dashcommand would stop responding occasionally and put it down to the usb hub I was using.

Anyway. When it sopped working I removed the hub and went direct, dash command still wouldn't work. Plugged a flash drive in, still no good, no lights on the flash drive, tried my phone, no power or anything at all.
Soft rebooted and also tried the reset button, neither helped.

Just put it all back together and still nothing, next day I was just driving along and the usb comes to life all on it's own.

It's since died again. Pulled the unit out and checked the connection on the back, seemed fine. Unplugged and reseated all plugs but no luck.

Dud unit????? Next thing I'll try is backing it all up with Titanium and factory reset it.

Hoping someone has found a tried and tested cure though.

Cheers.

[SVXdc]

Originally Posted by born2lose

I went ahead based on your reviews and ordered the ca-fi, and now trying to figure out how to install it. I do have bookmarks to the posts explaining how to allign the brackets and also to the post on page 75 explaining how the connections should work. I have bought the antenna and the usb port adapters, so I think I'm quite prepared for the installation.

My question though - has anyone done an install on a toyota gt86, european model? To explain exactly what wires need to be cut, what goes exactly where?

I think you'll find that you only need to make one modification to the Dashlinq's harness -- changing the power antenna lead, as I describe in that earlier post.

GT86 models don't have the illumination(-) lead on the car's 6-pin harness, so you can leave the Dashlinq's SWC wire where it is. And GT86 doesn't have an amplifier for the door speakers like BRZ and FR-S in North America, so you don't need to pin the Dashlinq's amp trigger lead.

See the posts by Narcoden and my replies starting at #1659. He found his HU was doing strange things on the HU's amp trigger output and dimmer input. I recommend you use a voltmeter to do the same tests that I list in post #1662. If you find that the Dashlinq's illumination input lead does anything strange, you should un-pin it so it doesn't connect to your car (and post a reply here to let us know).

[Simok]

So for frs models you HAVE to pin the amp trigger lead? Ive been emailing Will about the door speakers not working and he said to check that my speakers are wired correctly. They are stock and have never been touched so I don't see how they could be incorrectly wired.

[SilverlightPony]

Originally Posted by Simok

So for frs models you HAVE to pin the amp trigger lead? Ive been emailing Will about the door speakers not working and he said to check that my speakers are wired correctly. They are stock and have never been touched so I don't see how they could be incorrectly wired.

All North American models must have that amp power lead powered, AFAIK.

[Skorov]

That was quite a read!

I went to install my Dashlinq today. I've wired up the Amp Power line to my aftermarket amp.

The problem is, it still doesn't work. I checked the voltage output and it's only seeing 0.3V.

It worked before when I tested it for the first time, but after flashing to the latest rooted version it doesn't.

Any suggestions before I flash back to stock?

[Simok]

Originally Posted by SilverlightPony

All North American models must have that amp power lead powered, AFAIK.

Which is this?

"Speaker Amp Trigger Lead

For BRZ, FR-S, and other models with a factory amplifier, you must add a new pin to pin #9 on the 10-pin plug -- the vacant slot between CA-Fi's ORANGE/BLACK (Power Antenna, at pin #8) and BLUE (dimmer, pin #10) leads, and connect that to their "pigtail" BLUE/WHITE wire labeled "AMP CON".


(click to see larger version).

Without this, the BRZ and FR-S door speakers will go silent. You can use the pin from the end of the SWC wire. Or, as someone suggested, steal the BLUE wire from another Toyota harness (Metra 70-1761, Scosche TA02B, or equivalent)."

Do I have to do the power antenna lead also if my car doesn't have a power antenna (below)?

"Power Antenna Lead

As mentioned earlier in the thread, CA-Fi's harness correctly pins the Power Antenna lead for Subarus (all models except non-navigation Legacy/Outback). But on FR-S and Toyota models, you'll need to extract their ORANGE/BLACK lead from their 10-pin connector, cut off the pin, and connect the Dashlinq's wire to the BLUE lead on your Toyota/Lexus antenna adapter (see addl. notes in my next post, below). On Subarus, you should remove (or don't use) the BLUE lead on the antenna adapter."

[SVXdc]

The power antenna lead is not just for a motorized telescoping antenna. All of the BRZ/FR-S/86 models (with the stubby antenna on the roof), as well as other Subarus and Toyotas with foil antennas on the rear glass, have an antenna booster amplifier. You must supply +12V power to that, or you'll have poor reception.

I don't know about Toyotas, but the Subaru ones start getting wiggy if the supply drops any below 12V (i.e., 11V won't suffice).

[SilverlightPony]

Originally Posted by Simok

Which is this?

"Speaker Amp Trigger Lead

For BRZ, FR-S, and other models with a factory amplifier, you must add a new pin to pin #9 on the 10-pin plug -- the vacant slot between CA-Fi's ORANGE/BLACK (Power Antenna, at pin #8) and BLUE (dimmer, pin #10) leads, and connect that to their "pigtail" BLUE/WHITE wire labeled "AMP CON".


(click to see larger version).

Without this, the BRZ and FR-S door speakers will go silent. You can use the pin from the end of the SWC wire. Or, as someone suggested, steal the BLUE wire from another Toyota harness (Metra 70-1761, Scosche TA02B, or equivalent)."

Do I have to do the power antenna lead also if my car doesn't have a power antenna (below)?

"Power Antenna Lead

As mentioned earlier in the thread, CA-Fi's harness correctly pins the Power Antenna lead for Subarus (all models except non-navigation Legacy/Outback). But on FR-S and Toyota models, you'll need to extract their ORANGE/BLACK lead from their 10-pin connector, cut off the pin, and connect the Dashlinq's wire to the BLUE lead on your Toyota/Lexus antenna adapter (see addl. notes in my next post, below). On Subarus, you should remove (or don't use) the BLUE lead on the antenna adapter."

yeah, I was getting my terminology mixed up a bit. That amp trigger lead needs to be powered or the door-speaker amp won't work; the power antenna lead needs to be powered in order to get decent radio reception.

[Rekkless]

How do you get internet while driving?

[emre1252]

Hi guys... i read all the pages you wrote about 80. Most of you have ca-fi universal model if im not wrong??? I have specific dashlinq4 for my Mazda3 with canbus. I have a question; as i see all the updates on the website are for "without canbus" versions. What about if i apply the rooted dashlinq4 update u published here for non canbus to my dashlinq4. Thanks.

[SilverlightPony]

Originally Posted by Rekkless

How do you get internet while driving?

Mobile hotspot, usually. Either a stand-alone unit or by enabling hotspot mode on your cellphone. Either way, there's a subscription cost for it.

[B-R-Z]

I bought a FreedomPop service for internet since my Verizon phone service doesn't allow tethering without paying for it. The service i got is 500mb/month and is free for 4g (yes, free) but if you want 3g AND 4g, its $4 per month--there are higher packages available. It runs on Sprints network if you want to check coverage, I was told coverage is bad if you go with 4g only, while 3g/4g provides continuous coverage. I've been using it for a month now and its well worth it for me. I only need it for Waze traffic updates for navi to avoid backups on my way to work. I paid $20 initially to sign up which included both a usb dongle and a WiFi device. Still can't get the usb device (Sierra wireless 250u) to work though