My rewiew of Tein's SRC from CSG

[cjd]

Originally Posted by wparsons

Are these the off the shelf SRC's, or the CSG spec SRC's?

CSG spec aren't yet available (even though they showed up on the site) so they're the normal ones.

[FastWhite]

Off the shelf SRC's.


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[Captain Snooze]

Originally Posted by msugi07

Thanks for the review. After this thread, I'm not sure if now I should get the street flex or SRC???

Your suspension has to work every time you drive your car. I am suggesting you should get the best dampers you are willing to pay for.

[Sugi]

Originally Posted by Captain Snooze

Your suspension has to work every time you drive your car. I am suggesting you should get the best dampers you are willing to pay for.

Nicely stated. I'm leaning more towards the street flex because I want to get the controller with it.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by msugi07

Nicely stated. I'm leaning more towards the street flex because I want to get the controller with it.

EDFC will work with the SRC, but you need two sets, since you have two adjustments.

[D1cker]

I've had these for 2 years, still love them.

Also I drove an FR-S with street flex at an autocross 5 minutes after hopping out of mine and it felt broken in comparison.

[Captain Snooze]

Originally Posted by msugi07

Nicely stated. I'm leaning more towards the street flex because I want to get the controller with it.

It comes down to inferior (not bad, just not as good as) dampers with electronic bells and whistles or superior dampers that you have to spend 3 minutes adjusting between street and track.

[cjd]

Originally Posted by Captain Snooze

It comes down to inferior (not bad, just not as good as) dampers with electronic bells and whistles or superior dampers that you have to spend 3 minutes adjusting between street and track.

What's another stack of cash? ... 3 minutes is 6 minutes just to play, how often? 10x is an hour, ... Ok, so you'd need to be adjusting a lot or using the GPS bit to really make up the price of two kits. I guess if I stay racing for at least 5 years this time it pays off the difference but still.

Or, one wife complaining, a quick twiddle in the car to something softer, and...

Hmmmm. Tempting after all. and probably not happening. Of course, at the moment I have a stock suspension setup and haven't driven for a few weeks.

[Captain Snooze]

Originally Posted by cjd

Or, one wife complaining, a quick twiddle in the car to something softer, and...

Huh? I thought we were talking about dampers here.

[cjd]

Originally Posted by Captain Snooze

Huh? I thought we were talking about dampers here.

Hah. Sound or... Anyhoo. Yeah. I like being able to drive us places in my car rather than her Prius... And she likes to knit in the car. Suspension too stiff is bad news. Finding out on date night all dressed up isn't such a good way to ruin my clothes adjusting the suspension...

That's about all the twirling I get to do anyway.

Carry on.

[FastWhite]

Ok, for the all the concerned members, I have heeded your concerns and I now have installed the LCA's. In the morning, eastern time, I will install the steering rack bushings and IMMEDIATELY drive to my alignment shop for an alignment. No more than 50 miles on it at present.
Also of note, I have re-installed the rear stock sway bar. I had a super pro 18mm adjustable. I found it drove very flat, felt neutral (never pushed it) but I was worried it was too stiff. Over bumps I was activating the traction control. Easily. Like pulling into my driveway at less than 5 mph. So horrible droop. There are bumps on the courses.
With the lighter bar the car does not feel as stiff, has sharper turn in and is better as a DD. 20mm front bar.
With my old setup of Koni's and yellow springs(250 lbs) I would be at full soft on the front and full stiff on the rear with the stock bar. With the bar I had large amounts of oversteer that I could not dial out. Went full stiff front and soft on the rear.
So with 2k more spring in the rear, what should I expect to have, more oversteer or under steer?
I have been researching but have not found that answer.


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[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by FastWhite

Ok, for the all the concerned members, I have heeded your concerns and I now have installed the LCA's. In the morning, eastern time, I will install the steering rack bushings and IMMEDIATELY drive to my alignment shop for an alignment. No more than 50 miles on it at present.
Also of note, I have re-installed the rear stock sway bar. I had a super pro 18mm adjustable. I found it drove very flat, felt neutral (never pushed it) but I was worried it was too stiff. Over bumps I was activating the traction control. Easily. Like pulling into my driveway at less than 5 mph. So horrible droop. There are bumps on the courses.
With the lighter bar the car does not feel as stiff, has sharper turn in and is better as a DD. 20mm front bar.
With my old setup of Koni's and yellow springs(250 lbs) I would be at full soft on the front and full stiff on the rear with the stock bar. With the bar I had large amounts of oversteer that I could not dial out. Went full stiff front and soft on the rear.
So with 2k more spring in the rear, what should I expect to have, more oversteer or under steer?
I have been researching but have not found that answer.


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The SRCs are designed around stock ways. The axle with the stiffer sway will give out first, so if you increase front sway, you will understeer more, and if you increase the rear sway, you will oversteer more.

[FastWhite]

Now given that this car will be an AX and DD with the 10k/12k springs. What would be a staring point initial setup?
For DD I like the 14/15 comp/rebound, for AX I think I'd start at mid range on the front and a little softer on the rear. 6/7 front and say 8/9 on the rear. With the stiffer rear spring generating oversteer. So starting out with the stiffer front and see what it does.
I should have some good experienced AX'ers as my first training day/race is an EVO school.
I'm looking for feed back here so feel free to chime in.


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[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by FastWhite

Now given that this car will be an AX and DD with the 10k/12k springs. What would be a staring point initial setup?
For DD I like the 14/15 comp/rebound, for AX I think I'd start at mid range on the front and a little softer on the rear. 6/7 front and say 8/9 on the rear. With the stiffer rear spring generating oversteer. So starting out with the stiffer front and see what it does.
I should have some good experienced AX'ers as my first training day/race is an EVO school.
I'm looking for feed back here so feel free to chime in.


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It's difficult to say without knowing the conditions you're driving in. To get the most out of your dampers, they need to be adjusted to the specific venue and course you're driving, as each parking lot is different. On a bumpier lot, you'll use less compression damping, while on a smoother lot, you'll use more compression damping.

On a course with more slaloms, you may use more rebound damping, while a course with more sweepers and c-boxes will find you using less rebound damping.

Also, swaybar settings are typically adjusted based on the course type; with a fast transition course, you want more front sway, while with a sweeping course, you want less front sway.

Start in the middle, and let your instructors help guide you through damper settings. You should be within a few clicks on all the settings on 10k/12k.