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#71 |
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It has been some time since I installed the Series 10 lights, so excuse me if my memory fails me. I removed the connectors from the OE headlights and pinned the wires from the new headlights into the OE plug. I left the plug and everything on the car side of that connection as it came from the factory.
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#72 | |
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#73 |
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I want to confirm the series 10 wiring.
to simplify this, what color wires on car side harness connect to the wiring harness on the HID headlamp side? can someone provide a simple color code? |
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#74 |
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to get the DRL to work, which white wire does the 12V has to be connected to. I am a little confused. I see two white wires from the 6 pin plug coming from the vehicle (passenger side). Driver side only has a one white wire
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#75 |
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Help? l cant get the DRL to turn on. Can someone advise on what I did wrong?
I removed the resistor and made a connection from both headlights i tried connecting by cutting male harness from the resistor and connecting the DRL to the positive end (green wire assume to be live wire). But no success. what am i suppose to do with the negative end? |
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#76 | |
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#77 |
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Never mind, I'm getting twisted up in the diagram. I'll try and read this thread later and put it together with the diagram.
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#78 |
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To clarify, what I did was leaving the female harness as-is on the car and cut the male harness from the resistor then hook both the DRL pin from the headlights together and connect to the positive side of the male harness. This is what I assume the OP means by tapping both to the live wire. But he didn't mention anything about the negative or grounding anything. I tried without grounding but no success.
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#79 |
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You have to ground it or there won't be any flow of electricity.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Tapatalk |
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#80 | |
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Thanks, but according to the OP's DIY how come they have nothing to ground. Does this mean that the negative wire from the male harness will be extended to the body of the car? (I'm assuming the positive side will have 2 wires going to each headlight and the negative will be connected to the body of the car?) |
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#81 | |
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Now you're powering an entirely different circuit that has a separate grounding wire in its OEM install. If you haven't looked at the color wire diagram yet it's here in the DIY section for download. Take a look what held me up from answering last night, and still, is how the main body ECU plays into this when switching to the 10Series/Monogram setup. Going back through here if you pinned your 6 pin connector like his pictures are shown then your LED is grounded. Have you taken a multimeter out and turn the car onto accessory power with the headlights on and tested to verify your getting 12 volts? You say you tapped a solid green wire but earlier in the thread someone mentioned a white-green striped wire they tapped. Is it possible you tapped the wrong wire? I'm also confused from reading where they are tapping that wire they run from the resistor to. Did you pick up 10 series/monogram lights which are 6 pins in a 8 pin connector or the GT86 EDM spec with the 7 pins? This might make a difference to. Last edited by NahumCC; 03-18-2016 at 08:41 PM. |
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#82 | |
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. I'm currently ordering a voltmeter online so haven't tested but I did try reversing to the other black wire instead with no luck. On the resistor harness as mentioned on previous post, only has a green wire and a black wire no green/white wire. Also I was somewhat confused with which wire to tap; according to their wording is to tap the live wire of the resistor harness? I wired the DRL as they instructed on page 2 of this thread only difference is instead of connecting directly to the harness, I cut the resistor out first and connecting to the wires where the harness used to be (example on my second photo). Is there other way to connect the DRL if this doesn't work Last edited by steve4; 03-18-2016 at 10:44 PM. |
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#83 | |
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So unfortunately the FR-S diagrams won't show me the GT86 which have 7 pins going into them. What your base series shows is that the OEM has 4 wires running into your headlamp assemblies from the car harness. Now here is where things get funny and why I'm confused by what they are calling the hot side of the resistor circuit in this thread Looking at the diagrams the resistor looks like its in line with the flow after the high beam bulb and that both the resistor and high beam ground are shared. It's just a relay that determines which path the flow is going to...resistor wired ground for lower output of DRL and non resisted ground for high beam at full output. If I've read the diagram correctly this is how I think the power is flowing for your stock headlights and may explain what you need to do with the resistor. DRL's When you've got the power on and lights on auto and drop the E-brake pin 21 on the main body ECU is left open allowing the resistor to be part of the ground circuit for the DRL. The main body ECU then supplies 12+ via pin 23 to the DIM relay grounding out via pins 11 and 3 on the main body ECU which causes it to close its contact with 12+ from the battery circuit to the high beam fuses and grounds out via the resistor to provide the lower output DRL. Low beams: When you select low beams or the car does based on light level outside then the main body ECU grounds out pin 21 energizing the circuit on the DRL relay to switch over to ground without the resistor engaged. The main body ECU then cuts the 12+ via pin 23 leaving the DIM relay unenergized diverting no power to the high beam. The power that was going to the high beam fuses instead finds it was to the low beam fuses as now the main body ECU has supplied 12+ to pin 2 which completes the circuit with the Headlamp Relay energizing it and closing the circuit to the low beam fuses. High beams: When you engage the high beams the main body ECU leaves the DRL relay energized cutting the resistor out and takes the 12+ from pin 2 of the main body ECU and sends it back to pin 23. Personally, having seen the wiring for the resistor being inline with ground I don't understand why you wouldn't just jump the pins together in the car side of the harness for the resistor instead of running all this extra wire. Wish I had the diagram for the 7 pin's GT86 lights to give you a better answer on how to move forward. This is also independent of any thought toward programming of the main body ecu and if they differ between the cars. I think there would have to be for the car to allow power all the time on the low beam circuit for the HID vs. how a halogen set up shuts of the low beam halogen when a high beam halogen is turned on. |
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#84 |
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Does anyone know if it works if I hook the drl to the wire behind the cigarette lighter thing in the glove compartment or maybe the ignition wire? Since the resistor is not working for me
Last edited by steve4; 03-27-2016 at 12:36 PM. |
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