Got a track related question? I'll try to answer.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by BRZZZZZZZZZZ

I now have a Kraftwerks C38 blower on my car with the Skunk2 oil cooler tuned at 10psi. I don't go lapping much maybe 2-3 events each summer, and its generally cooler up here in Canada for lapping days (25 degrees Celcius). Should I seriously be looking for a aluminum radiator for the coming year?

How much power are you making?

[CSG Mike]

Here's another.

[BRZZZZZZZZZZ]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

How much power are you making?

258WHP. Less with my slightly detuned track tune.

[jvincent]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

Here's another.

To be fair, most of the people having issues with the OFT are either:

a. Doing something stupid or unusual.
b. Stupid.

That may sound a bit harsh, but when I read a lot of those threads, I shake my head.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by BRZZZZZZZZZZ

258WHP. Less with my slightly detuned track tune.

You *probably* don't need one at that power level.

Is there any reason you went with a C38? That's a C30 power level.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by jvincent

To be fair, most of the people having issues with the OFT are either:

a. Doing something stupid or unusual.
b. Stupid.

That may sound a bit harsh, but when I read a lot of those threads, I shake my head.

It's really no different from people doing the exact same things with EcuTek, particularly since EcuTek has more capabilities.

The difference is that the cost of entry is higher, so it filters out some people.

[Campo]

Hey @CSG Mike, we may be selling our streetbikes and investing more into the FRS to keep heading towards our long-range goal of NASA TT.


Right now we are tuned on e85 with an air filter and a muffler delete - power is fine for now.


We have an auto, so our next two items will be oil and tranny coolers.


Our only suspension change is the factory crash bolts to get a little negative camber.


My question is this:


What coilover setup would you recommend that is 2 way adjustable (comp and rebound), has spring rate options so we can experiment, is rebuildable so it will last, and is somewhere between $2-3k?




I prefer a car that tends toward overstear and will rotate easily.


Are there just too many options to even recommend something, or is my price range off kilter for my requirements? I've pretty much left suspension to be my last upgrade as I've learned the car, and want something that can grow with me as I get better with seat time - keeping in mind a goal of joining NASA TT in a year or so.

*edit* - I forgot to mention we're trying to avoid too many points against us in TTD, so we're trying to avoid anything with remote reservoirs. And we of course need camber adjustability...

Thanks!

[Andrew025]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

It's really no different from people doing the exact same things with EcuTek, particularly since EcuTek has more capabilities.

The difference is that the cost of entry is higher, so it filters out some people.

I'm not really sure how this pertains to the original question/suggestion of if the OFT is safe for track use.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by Campo

Hey @CSG Mike, we may be selling our streetbikes and investing more into the FRS to keep heading towards our long-range goal of NASA TT.


Right now we are tuned on e85 with an air filter and a muffler delete - power is fine for now.


We have an auto, so our next two items will be oil and tranny coolers.


Our only suspension change is the factory crash bolts to get a little negative camber.


My question is this:


What coilover setup would you recommend that is 2 way adjustable (comp and rebound), has spring rate options so we can experiment, is rebuildable so it will last, and is somewhere between $2-3k?




I prefer a car that tends toward overstear and will rotate easily.


Are there just too many options to even recommend something, or is my price range off kilter for my requirements? I've pretty much left suspension to be my last upgrade as I've learned the car, and want something that can grow with me as I get better with seat time - keeping in mind a goal of joining NASA TT in a year or so.

*edit* - I forgot to mention we're trying to avoid too many points against us in TTD, so we're trying to avoid anything with remote reservoirs. And we of course need camber adjustability...

Thanks!

There's only one option in your price range... KW V3/RCE T2. That doesn't include upper mounts/camber plates, so you'll also need to factor those costs in as well.

Realistically, you need to be looking at the 4-6k price range for a competitive 2 way damper. It sounds odd to most when you're talking about KW, but do you normally buy the *cheapest* option available? That's what the KW/RCE is.

The options I'd lean toward are JRZ RS/RS-Pro, or the Tein SRC. The JRZ RS has no reservoir, while the RS-Pro has a remote external. The Tein SRC has an attached reservoir, which doesn't cost as many points as a remote external. All 3 include camber plates, and rear top mounts, and have a WIDE range in spring rate.

You'll also probably want rear LCAs for camber adjustment in the back, and a LSD to put the power down (and promote controllable rotation, as per your preference, beyond what the spring rates do).

[Campo]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

There's only one option in your price range... KW V3/RCE T2. That doesn't include upper mounts/camber plates, so you'll also need to factor those costs in as well.

Realistically, you need to be looking at the 4-6k price range for a competitive 2 way damper. It sounds odd to most when you're talking about KW, but do you normally buy the *cheapest* option available? That's what the KW/RCE is.

The options I'd lean toward are JRZ RS/RS-Pro, or the Tein SRC. The JRZ RS has no reservoir, while the RS-Pro has a remote external. The Tein SRC has an attached reservoir, which doesn't cost as many points as a remote external. All 3 include camber plates, and rear top mounts, and have a WIDE range in spring rate.

You'll also probably want rear LCAs for camber adjustment in the back, and a LSD to put the power down (and promote controllable rotation, as per your preference, beyond what the spring rates do).

This may be the single most helpful suspension post I've ever read. Thanks Mike!


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[ja1217]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

There's only one option in your price range... KW V3/RCE T2. That doesn't include upper mounts/camber plates, so you'll also need to factor those costs in as well.

Realistically, you need to be looking at the 4-6k price range for a competitive 2 way damper. It sounds odd to most when you're talking about KW, but do you normally buy the *cheapest* option available? That's what the KW/RCE is.

The options I'd lean toward are JRZ RS/RS-Pro, or the Tein SRC. The JRZ RS has no reservoir, while the RS-Pro has a remote external. The Tein SRC has an attached reservoir, which doesn't cost as many points as a remote external. All 3 include camber plates, and rear top mounts, and have a WIDE range in spring rate.

You'll also probably want rear LCAs for camber adjustment in the back, and a LSD to put the power down (and promote controllable rotation, as per your preference, beyond what the spring rates do).

I also wouldn't necessarily rule out some of the better 1 way adjustable dampers as a cheaper but still competitive option. The Ohlins are great dampers and come with camber plates up front and only cost ~$3100. I've been running the Ohlins in TTD and doing very well with one 1st place finish and several 2nd place finishes. It doesn't help that I'm constantly running against the current lap record holders who have reset the lap record each time they ran, except once. I'm still very happy with how things went though, as it was my first year in time trials and only my 2nd year at the track.

I was on the OEM Ohlins spring rates (~343lbs all around) with 225 Hoosier R6's, AP Sprint BBK, and a 93 tune. For next year I am getting the Ohlins revalved and going to 650lbs in the front and 750 in the rear. Also going for an intake, header/overpipe/HFC frontpipe, and an LSD as well while also switching to 225 Maxxis tires. I'd like to keep running the Hoosiers, but I won't have the points unless I can get a dyno reclass (unlikely). I'm interested in seeing if I can at least somewhat maintain grip levels through the suspension and LSD upgrades while also dramatically increasing power (hopefully).

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by ja1217

I also wouldn't necessarily rule out some of the better 1 way adjustable dampers as a cheaper but still competitive option. The Ohlins are great dampers and come with camber plates up front and only cost ~$3100. I've been running the Ohlins in TTD and doing very well with one 1st place finish and several 2nd place finishes. It doesn't help that I'm constantly running against the current lap record holders who have reset the lap record each time they ran, except once. I'm still very happy with how things went though, as it was my first year in time trials and only my 2nd year at the track.

I was on the OEM Ohlins spring rates (~343lbs all around) with 225 Hoosier R6's, AP Sprint BBK, and a 93 tune. For next year I am getting the Ohlins revalved and going to 650lbs in the front and 750 in the rear. Also going for an intake, header/overpipe/HFC frontpipe, and an LSD as well while also switching to 225 Maxxis tires. I'd like to keep running the Hoosiers, but I won't have the points unless I can get a dyno reclass (unlikely). I'm interested in seeing if I can at least somewhat maintain grip levels through the suspension and LSD upgrades while also dramatically increasing power (hopefully).

Although they're great dampers, that's precisely why I don't recommend the Ohlins. For any experienced driver that doesn't like the push of the Ohlins from the factory, there is no leeway to change spring rates, and maintain proper damping. For the cost of getting the extra springs, and your Ohlins revalved, you could have gotten a 2 way JRZ (or really close to a Ohlins TTX) setup, and you would STILL have a more flexible damper in that you would still have flexibility to adjust spring rates as you see fit, within a window.

For example, the CSG-Spec Tein SRC allows for spring rates of 7-13k in the front, and 9-15k in the rear. 7k ~~ 500lbs, 15k ~~ 840lbs. Our default 10k/12k is about 560lbs and 670lbs.

[Campo]

Originally Posted by ja1217

I also wouldn't necessarily rule out some of the better 1 way adjustable dampers as a cheaper but still competitive option. The Ohlins are great dampers and come with camber plates up front and only cost ~$3100. I've been running the Ohlins in TTD and doing very well with one 1st place finish and several 2nd place finishes. It doesn't help that I'm constantly running against the current lap record holders who have reset the lap record each time they ran, except once. I'm still very happy with how things went though, as it was my first year in time trials and only my 2nd year at the track.

I was on the OEM Ohlins spring rates (~343lbs all around) with 225 Hoosier R6's, AP Sprint BBK, and a 93 tune. For next year I am getting the Ohlins revalved and going to 650lbs in the front and 750 in the rear. Also going for an intake, header/overpipe/HFC frontpipe, and an LSD as well while also switching to 225 Maxxis tires. I'd like to keep running the Hoosiers, but I won't have the points unless I can get a dyno reclass (unlikely). I'm interested in seeing if I can at least somewhat maintain grip levels through the suspension and LSD upgrades while also dramatically increasing power (hopefully).

That's not a bad idea, but I'm afraid that like you, I'll want to make changes in the future that a single adjustable won't allow. I know I'm not good enough yet, but the idea is to grow as a driver and car together. It sounds like you're doin great!
I wish I had the points available for Hoosiers, but we're starting with a 6 point car because it's auto. Technically it was a 10 point car when we drove it off the lot because we have a factory spoiler that adds 4 points too, but we'll probably remove that in favor of a diffuser or just nothing or a big wing that's worth the points.


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[JZA]

Hi all,
I am a new FRS owner. I'd like to know a recommended alignment for a stock FRS with TRD springs. If I am going to get the alignment bolts and plates, where should i start with alignment?

Thanks for your input!