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Old 10-29-2014, 12:43 AM   #113
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This thread is AWESOME!!!!!!!!!
...except for the Toyota hating Subaru apologists.
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Old 10-30-2014, 12:02 AM   #114
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if I have time, I will try and make an adapter spacer to go between the BRZ upright and the lexus hub. this was one idea I had, possibly with radial mounts for dual calipers on it as well



needs to be pocketed out to save weight, as a solid block it's super heavy. and it's only loosely similar to the parts I need, it's a good concept but I need to redraw it carefully with more accurate dimensions
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Old 10-30-2014, 06:06 PM   #115
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subscribed for more! this is interesting
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Old 10-31-2014, 11:43 PM   #116
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Looking forward to the results of your design efforts. Keep up the fine work!
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Old 11-01-2014, 12:13 AM   #117
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RWD-only application with all the torque going to them
I lol'd.
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Old 11-01-2014, 11:38 PM   #118
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I lol'd.
yeah, sure the BRZ isn't exactly a torque monster, but you have to remember that in Subaru AWD drivelines, a stock WRX made like 170whp, of which 50% is supposed to make it to the rear end, but it has to make it through a pretty loose 4kg viscous coupling first. under hard launches the front chirps on those cars while the rear just kind of comes along for the ride. clearly, RWD-only is going to be harder on those components.
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Old 11-02-2014, 12:10 AM   #119
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Old 11-02-2014, 01:32 AM   #120
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yeah, sure the BRZ isn't exactly a torque monster, but you have to remember that in Subaru AWD drivelines, a stock WRX made like 170whp, of which 50% is supposed to make it to the rear end, but it has to make it through a pretty loose 4kg viscous coupling first. under hard launches the front chirps on those cars while the rear just kind of comes along for the ride. clearly, RWD-only is going to be harder on those components.
Oh...I'm with you 100%, it was just funny the way I read it.
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Old 11-02-2014, 12:07 PM   #121
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Props to all of this man!
Sub'd!!
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Old 11-02-2014, 05:59 PM   #122
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got a big wang because it was cheap and came with the solidworks files for me to easily make new risers. I think I'm gonna go with chassis mount risers out of the rear bumper or something that clear the trunk, then ditch the lame STi spoiler possibly for a duckbill trunk so I can just sell that dumb trunk. the best part is how mad people get that I'm buying aero before I got the car running for them to watch videos of on the internet.



then I borrowed my roomate's sawzall and got after what's left of the interior with some fire & rescue blades.





the interior side of the firewall is actually surprisingly not bad. seeing how the factory electric assist on the column works is kinda neat, too bad I have to yank all that garbage. it's nice that it's all manual a decent ways up though, I might be able to use the collapsible part of a stock column and then just weld on a solid shaft to the end to mount a bearing and racing quick release to, so that I don't have solid shaft all the way down, so that I don't get skewered in a crash. good stuff.
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Old 11-04-2014, 08:49 AM   #123
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figured I'd need more than just one set of SSR Viennas if I want to drift this thing ever, so I ordered a set of SSR Gartmaiers from Japan through Jesse Streeter. his commission is super low and he's awesome to deal with thus far, and came pretty highly recommended.



it's super fucked up how much people charge for used wheels here, because everyone thinks they can only go up in value. vrwheels buys them off yahoo auctions japan, marks them up a few hundred bucks, sells them to some kid, that kid turns around and sells them for a few hundred bucks more, so on and so forth. someone buys a pair of lips for $300 and reads a guide online on how to polish wheels, sooner or later they're on stanceworks being sold for $2500, plus shipping plus paypal, firm.

I *think* these are bent, I'm not really sure since I don't speak the language. Even if all four lips and barrels are damaged beyond repair (unlikely), I still only paid $170 for the lot. Depending on weight they should cost around $500 to get here, I guess we'll see if that's a waste of money in 6-8 weeks.
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Old 11-04-2014, 02:18 PM   #124
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then I borrowed my roomate's sawzall and got after what's left of the interior with some fire & rescue blades.

the interior side of the firewall is actually surprisingly not bad. seeing how the factory electric assist on the column works is kinda neat, too bad I have to yank all that garbage. it's nice that it's all manual a decent ways up though, I might be able to use the collapsible part of a stock column and then just weld on a solid shaft to the end to mount a bearing and racing quick release to, so that I don't have solid shaft all the way down, so that I don't get skewered in a crash. good stuff.
I did not think the fire damage was this severe but instead of just the engine bay its more than 50% of the car! Are you positive that the structure integrity of the shell was not compromised? Are you gutting it out or trying to restore it back to the original specs?

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Old 11-04-2014, 02:44 PM   #125
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@PhoKingCool

It's just steel, I'm sure it'll be fine. Normal cold rolled steel doesn't heat treat. Nobody has been able to come up with a convincing argument otherwise, and I've asked around. The only worry I have is getting all the surface rust and bullshit off the metal so new paint won't lift right off.

Interior plans:

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Old 11-04-2014, 02:55 PM   #126
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Also, could we all not quote pictures in my thread? Thanks.
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