Questions before I buy a 2013 FR-S

[sk47]

Originally Posted by RJasonKlein

I give you high marks for researching things so thoroughly before making your purchase. I just bought 2013 FR-S 10 Series new from a dealer last month and, like you, I read everything I could on this forum about issues with theses cars. Obviously, in the end indecided to buy the car - my decision being driven by substantial discounts and really liking Silver Ignition and the unique features of the 10 Series (aside from the backlit badges).

There are still a lot of 2013 cars on the lots, and even more 2014s. While I don't want to hijack your thread, discussing negotiated prices may be helpful for other buyers of these cars - I know it would have been for me. Scion dealers that I visited generally used their Pure Price policy as a reason to not to negotiate, but after visiting three dealerships in my search for a 10 Series, I finally found one that would. I paid $23,500 before tax, title, and license on a car with a sticker price of $28,300 that had 32 miles on the odometer and was still on the showroom floor. What price have you been able to negotiate so far?

Either way, good luck and enjoy the car!

Hello; $23,852 + a $399 doc service charge + $79 data doc fee+ Tax -tag & license fees MSRP $28,249. Looks like you negociated a better deal.

[Ultramaroon]

#dat13lyfyo

[pmj]

I have to wonder why a 2013 is still sitting on a lot. How many miles does it have?

I just bought my 2015 from Jim Barkley Toyota in Asheville, not far from you at all, sticker was $26,194, I bought it for $25,373. No dealer fees, no paperwork or admin fees. Unless you REALLY want a 2 year old FR-S, I would buy a new one for less money.

[sk47]

Originally Posted by pmj

I have to wonder why a 2013 is still sitting on a lot. How many miles does it have?

I just bought my 2015 from Jim Barkley Toyota in Asheville, not far from you at all, sticker was $26,194, I bought it for $25,373. No dealer fees, no paperwork or admin fees. Unless you REALLY want a 2 year old FR-S, I would buy a new one for less money.

Hello; Very interesting. A 2015 at that price is a much better deal with depreciation and trade in value factored in. Also any upgrades and /or fixes wil be in place in the later model.

Another factor to consider. Yes Ashland is not so far a way from me.

[kevman_101]

How many miles are on the car you are dealing for? if it was a demo car with a few hundred miles on it, I would make them drop the price more. They have to bend eventually, or the car will probably stick to the lot for it`s whole life. Also, call other dealerships and ask what they can do for you. Might have another dealer that is inclined to negotiating.

What ever you do, be patient. When you are comfortable and happy with the deal they give you, then you can go ahead and make it final.

[sk47]

Originally Posted by kevman_101

How many miles are on the car you are dealing for? if it was a demo car with a few hundred miles on it, I would make them drop the price more. They have to bend eventually, or the car will probably stick to the lot for it`s whole life. Also, call other dealerships and ask what they can do for you. Might have another dealer that is inclined to negotiating.

What ever you do, be patient. When you are comfortable and happy with the deal they give you, then you can go ahead and make it final.

Hello; I asked in an e-mail that the salesman send me the mileage and the build date this past weekend. So far no answer. Based on responses on this thread the sale price will need to be further discussed.

I agree with the notion of being patient. I do not quite see the "pure pricing" tactic working out well for Scion as it did not seem to for Saturn and others. These car companies could make such a strategy work if they made the starting price point reasonable and did not jack the price with inflated options and "added dealer profit" fees.

The dealer closest to me with the leftover 2013 and 2014 FR-S's is at least $1,700 over on the 2013 compared to the one I am talking with now. My guess is that they better get the information about what the leftover cars are selling for at other dealers. I do not wish to de-rail my own thread too much, but if someone knows more about this please feel free to comment.

[Davev]

While all this is info is calculated and evaluated- we're out driving our cars and adding and removing stuff. It's not always about getting the cheapest price.

Don't worry about paying too much- it's only money and you can make more.

[sk47]

Originally Posted by Davev

While all this is info is calculated and evaluated- we're out driving our cars and adding and removing stuff. It's not always about getting the cheapest price.

Don't worry about paying too much- it's only money and you can make more.

Hello; Interesting point of view, but not one I favor. I find satisfaction in avoiding cars with known issues and also like to feel I have made as good a deal as possible.
You may not actually be suggesting that I over pay and ignore potentialy serious reliability issues, but your comment might be taken that way. I imagine dealers are much more pleased to see customers with your attitude than with mine.

To me a sweet ride is all the more enjoyable if I have also made a good deal. To each, his/her own way. Good luck and enjoy your car.

[Bigbadvoodooguru]

if the price is within a few thousand dollars I would go for the 2015. In the end, when you resell it, you will be selling a car that is 2 years older. To the future buyer, it doesn't matter that it was new in 2015 and you have low miles. It will be cross shopped with other 2013 model vehicles and priced accordingly. Your KBB value will be lower. Insurance payouts in the event of a total will be lower. You'll miss out on any of the upgrades that came in the newer models (2014 head unit, knee pads, shark fin come to mind).
If you really wanted a 2013 then get a used car, you'll save thousands because the original owner took the depreciation hit. I bought my 2014 used, with 4500 miles on it for 20,000. It was 6 months old, yet I'm ahead of the depreciation curve by quite a bit.

I know not all people buy cars looking ahead at the resale value (I do because I rarely keep a car for longer than 2 years). The only car I have ever lost money on was a used 2002 S2000 (quite a bit too :/). Everything else was either equal or I made money. I typically buy cars at the lowest interest rate possible for the longest time possible with 0 down. This means I have almost no money out of pocket at time of purchase besides tax and registration, and that money can make more money for me while I am paying the vehicle off. Overall, payments are low because of 72 months, I barely pay any interest (banks are losing money on my loan), and all is good. Only way to mess it up is 1) buy a shitty car that tanks in value, before it tanked in value, or 2) crash/damage your car or put so many miles on it that you outpace the market value of the vehicle versus loan payoff.

[Fett4Real]

And this car didnt tank in value? It went down to 19k after a year of owning it...

[Bigbadvoodooguru]

All cars are depreciating assets, not investments. That's why I said I would recommend buying used. If he insists on buying new, then the lesser of the two evils is the 2015.
A 2014 new was around 25-26k. Six months later, I was able to purchase at 20k. That 5-6k hit is equivalent to depreciation over 2-3 years. So that means in 2017, my car should be selling for around 19k. If that is the case, then the 1000 lost, spread over almost 3 years is ~$27 for me to drive this car per month (More or less equal). If I keep the car pristine, which I will, and am able to sell over market value, then I could potentially make money, or come out completely even. Gas cost, insurance cost, mod cost, all all extraneous items not included in the calculation, as you would be spending that on another vehicle regardless. Mods especially are a never-get-it-back proposition unless you part out, have mods that are desirable, and have high resale.

[Bigbadvoodooguru]

If you want an example of tanking value, a 2006 Mercedes SLK 55 AMG new was ~$75k, and I bought one in 2011 for 18k. That car reached the bottom of its depreciation curve, and I sold it in 2014 with 30k more miles on it, for 17k. That is definition of tanking value (All AMG cars tank in value).

[sk47]

Hello bigbadvoodooguru; I follow you line of thinking and see how it works.

My tendency has been to keep a car/truck for around a decade or more. My current car is a 2001 model bought as new in 2002. I managed a decent discount on the purchase price. My truck is a 2004 model bought new about two months after the build date. (This was due to the prior truck I owned for 12 years being totaled and needing a quick replacement.)

Were I inclined to trade often, you practice would seem to work out well in terms of money spent. I am not sure that I come out much, if any, better. I do avoid the pesky tax costs and other trade fees. I also like knowing how a vehicle is maintained from early on.

One thing the responses to this thread has helped me consider is the fact a 2013 has spent a lot of time just sitting around. Having some experience with cars that sit around a lot, I know how damaging that can be. I have a friend who buys nice cars and puts them up, often for months/years at a time. He will just start them and allow them to idle for a few minutes every month or two. When they no longer start I get a call. I have revived some a number of times, but they all have problems.

These side discussions are of interest. I will from time to time ask if anyone knows if or when the DI seals and pre-ignition (detonation) issues were addressed by Scion.

[Pkush]

I'm not sure if I'm helping but I can give you a couple price points I've negotiated to. I wash shopping for a new brz. I bought one 6 days ago. Series.blue 2015 model. It was 27500 with a roughly 31k sticker pice. I've negotiated other deals and they are as follows:
2013 brz premium 23k
2013 brz limited 24k
2015 limited 25600

Hope this helps with the pricing