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Forced Induction Turbo, Supercharger, Methanol, Nitrous


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Old 09-26-2014, 10:54 AM   #5377
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I don't see how you guys are pulling the blower off with it installed on the car.
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Old 09-26-2014, 12:49 PM   #5378
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I don't see how you guys are pulling the blower off with it installed on the car.

Pretty sure you can remove the blower from the manifold easily.
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Old 09-26-2014, 01:24 PM   #5379
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Pretty sure you can remove the blower from the manifold easily.
not while the manifold is installed on the car.
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Old 09-26-2014, 01:25 PM   #5380
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well that could put a damper on things
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Old 09-26-2014, 05:18 PM   #5381
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Melted engine parts are usually from a lean mixture. Specs and pits are from knock (with accompanied bent rods or blown pistons). Stick with sub 12 AFRs for safety IMO. Also may be a fuel delivery problem. If you had this happen on just one cylinder, might be that or imbalanced air delivery. If it happened on 2 or more, then likely the mixture was too lean.

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My first failure looked very simular to yours, we found plugs had burnt and lots of oil in the manifold even down the intake as far as the airbox. We cleaned out did compression test all was ok, replaced plugs, started up ran fine.
About 100km cruising engine blew.
2 Pistons where finished hole and melted.
Don't mess around pull the motor and replace parts before you do more damage, could save yourself good couple of $$ if you have not damage the bore.
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Old 09-26-2014, 05:21 PM   #5382
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While my car is cold it stutters and misses a lot around 3-4k rpms. Maybe this is the start of what you guys are talking about above...?
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Old 09-26-2014, 05:23 PM   #5383
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Turbo kits pulling 14 psi close to redline are going to have some hot air delivery, and probably past their efficiency point. Hot air at 14 psi is less than the air mass when cold at the same pressure.

An (under)driven SC like the 335 will be delivering 14 psi at lower revs, and it will be nowhere near it's peak output. So the only heat gain there will be mostly just from compression. So 14 psi with 30-40 deg lower IAT will have quite a bit more power. Then figure the SC will have about 10% drag loss, 400 twin screw HP is more like 440 turbo HP, maybe more. You get the idea. I think the question is whether the motor will sustain 14 psi at lower revs even with retarded timing or e85. Just might be too much boost for the OEM rods. But maybe not...if it can be done we will do it. Hopefully without a frisbee sized pulley though.


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Aren't there turbo kits out there making 350-400 rwhp on stock internals? How is this different? I realize it's pushing things but people are doing it with success I think- not sure how this is different (maybe torque output)?
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Old 09-26-2014, 05:37 PM   #5384
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Definitely keen on seeing your progress with the 335.
Pretty sure it won't be 14psi down low though, granted that is my experience on old roots style blower although it is PD by nature.
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Old 09-27-2014, 03:09 AM   #5385
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Are people with the 70mm pulley running the Gates K061015RB blue belt, Gates K061015 black, or the smaller sized Gates K061010 (or blue)? I read that some use the smaller belt with the smaller pulley but it would be nice to hear an update from everyone as I'm starting to get some squeaks from what I think is the belt, more often on deceleration. I think the belt may be around 15k miles or more on it by now.

I track the car a few times a year and do a couple autox a year as well. Might be useful to know that.
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Old 09-27-2014, 02:29 PM   #5386
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All - looking for a little advice:

The other morning I went to start up the car and noticed a odd metallic/scraping sound coming from the pulley system - after examining the belt and taking it off and free spinning the pulleys I believe I've found the culprit, but I'm not sure proper procedure to repair: the pulley making the noise is the idler pulley directly below the supercharger pulley in this picture - when I spin it I can hear the scraping sound. Ideas on what to do to resolve? Do I need to source a new pulley from Subaru?
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Old 09-27-2014, 04:53 PM   #5387
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikalem View Post
All - looking for a little advice:



The other morning I went to start up the car and noticed a odd metallic/scraping sound coming from the pulley system - after examining the belt and taking it off and free spinning the pulleys I believe I've found the culprit, but I'm not sure proper procedure to repair: the pulley making the noise is the idler pulley directly below the supercharger pulley in this picture - when I spin it I can hear the scraping sound. Ideas on what to do to resolve? Do I need to source a new pulley from Subaru?

Idler pulley is cheap, and can be found at your local auto parts shop (about $10). You want Gates 38018.
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Old 09-27-2014, 04:55 PM   #5388
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Idler pulley is cheap, and can be found at your local auto parts shop (about $10). You want Gates 38018.
Part number was what I was looking for - thanks
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Old 09-27-2014, 06:43 PM   #5389
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He's referring to the metal one not the one with innovate/sprintex kit. Probably dealer part.
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Old 09-27-2014, 06:45 PM   #5390
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He's referring to the metal one not the one with innovate/sprintex kit. Probably dealer part.
Right I am referring to the stamped metal part - ended up sourcing a set from raceseng - should sort me out.
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