RCE Tarmac 2 - top nut adjustment

[milhouse]

Does anyone know whether Tarmac 2s require a top nut adjustment when installed? I'm planning on installing myself but I don't have a GearRatchet. So either I will need to pick a set up or else have my local shop do the install.

Also, does anyone have a link to installation instructions? Can't find them anywhere (at least if they are specific to the BRZ/FR-S).

Thanks.

[gramicci101]

I can't speak to the top not adjustment question, but here's @GrimmSpeed's DIY coilover install guide.

Are you going with the OEM top mounts? Or something like HVT or RaceSeng?

[milhouse]

Originally Posted by gramicci101

I can't speak to the top not adjustment question, but here's @GrimmSpeed's DIY coilover install guide.

Are you going with the OEM top mounts? Or something like HVT or RaceSeng?

OEM. I don't plan on running more than about -1.2 camber so I don't know what benefit would be provided by having more adjustable camber than the SPC bolts provide (at least at my skill level).

And I looked at the DIY which is what gave me the confidence to do the install myself, but it looks like each coilover is different with respect to the top nut adjustment. Maybe @Racecomp Engineering can chime in?

[Racecomp Engineering]

I'm not sure what your specific question is about top nut "adjustment"? With the coilover assembled off the car, we recommend torquing the top nut while using a strap wrench to hold the shaft in place. Don't put anything metal on the shaft. Do not use the rebound adjuster allen key to hold the shaft in place.

Feel free to give us a call pretty much any time (weekends too) and we can help with the install. We are still working on a nice set of instructions.

- Andy

[milhouse]

Originally Posted by Racecomp Engineering

I'm not sure what your specific question is about top nut "adjustment"? With the coilover assembled off the car, we recommend torquing the top nut while using a strap wrench to hold the shaft in place. Don't put anything metal on the shaft. Do not use the rebound adjuster allen key to hold the shaft in place.

That's exactly what I was asking, so thank you for the response! I'm trying to figure out whether I need to do something like this:



By the time I buy the tools I need for that, I am 1/3 of the way to the cost of an install by a shop, so I may just have them do it (I already need them to do a corner balancing and alignment anyway).

While @Racecomp Engineering is here, can you say whether the Tarmac 2s will prevent me from getting to 0 toe? Right now I'm not too concerned about a lot of negative camber, but I don't want my toe to be off. The shop recommended an SPC LCA but if the only benefit in getting that done now is camber, I may wait to do that.

Thanks.

[gramicci101]

Originally Posted by milhouse

While @Racecomp Engineering is here, can you say whether the Tarmac 2s will prevent me from getting to 0 toe? Right now I'm not too concerned about a lot of negative camber, but I don't want my toe to be off. The shop recommended an SPC LCA but if the only benefit in getting that done now is camber, I may wait to do that.

Thanks.

Zero toe as in, the rear toe gets tweaked when you lower the car?

Rear toe can be a little off after you lower the car, but probably not by much. The RLCA does only affect camber, but SPC also has a toe bushing that replaces the OEM bushing in the toe arm and can give you a little more adjustability if you need it. Plus several companies offer aftermarket arms. The OEM toe arm is adjustable already; it's just a matter of exceeding its limits that would drive an upgraded arm.

[milhouse]

Originally Posted by gramicci101

Zero toe as in, the rear toe gets tweaked when you lower the car?

Rear toe can be a little off after you lower the car, but probably not by much. The RLCA does only affect camber, but SPC also has a toe bushing that replaces the OEM bushing in the toe arm and can give you a little more adjustability if you need it. Plus several companies offer aftermarket arms. The OEM toe arm is adjustable already; it's just a matter of exceeding its limits that would drive an upgraded arm.

Thanks. It sounds like I can proceed with the coilover install with the expectation that rear toe should be able to get to 0 with the OEM RLCA and toe arm, and camber should be reasonable. And if for some reason it is not, at that point I may want to consider an RLCA and/or toe arm.

Thanks for all your help - excellent support from RCE!

[gramicci101]

You're right, it all should work. If you end up with an RLCA for camber adjustments, just keep in mind that using the RLCA will affect your toe, so it will need to be adjusted too. If for some reason you've exceeded the maximum range of the OEM toe arm, SPC has their offset bushings and multiple companies offer replacement arms. I know of one user with RCE T2's and SPC RLCAs that has found the toe bushings to be unnecessary.

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by milhouse

That's exactly what I was asking, so thank you for the response! I'm trying to figure out whether I need to do something like this:



By the time I buy the tools I need for that, I am 1/3 of the way to the cost of an install by a shop, so I may just have them do it (I already need them to do a corner balancing and alignment anyway).

While @Racecomp Engineering is here, can you say whether the Tarmac 2s will prevent me from getting to 0 toe? Right now I'm not too concerned about a lot of negative camber, but I don't want my toe to be off. The shop recommended an SPC LCA but if the only benefit in getting that done now is camber, I may wait to do that.

Thanks.

Right, don't do what's pictured there. The allen on the top is the rebound adjuster so you don't want to use that to keep the shaft still. A strap wrench is the proper tool in this case to keep the shaft from spinning.

You should be able to get 0 toe no problem.

If you're near AZP Installs in NJ, they're a good shop (no idea on pricing, but they'll do it right).

- Andy

[milhouse]

Originally Posted by Racecomp Engineering

If you're near AZP Installs in NJ, they're a good shop (no idea on pricing, but they'll do it right).

Exactly who I am planning on going to...

[Racecomp Engineering]

You're in good hands then.

[DarkSunrise]

Originally Posted by Racecomp Engineering

I'm not sure what your specific question is about top nut "adjustment"? With the coilover assembled off the car, we recommend torquing the top nut while using a strap wrench to hold the shaft in place. Don't put anything metal on the shaft. Do not use the rebound adjuster allen key to hold the shaft in place.

Feel free to give us a call pretty much any time (weekends too) and we can help with the install. We are still working on a nice set of instructions.

- Andy

Andy,

I noticed the directions call for a strap wrench to hold the shaft when tightening the top nut (both front and rear). On my RCE T2's, I was able to use a strap wrench for the fronts. But on the rears, only a small part of the shaft is exposed at the top and gets covered by the spring perch and top hat.



Is the proper way to tighten the top nuts on the rears to use a 17mm pass-through and an 8 mm extended socket to hold the shaft?

Also on one of the rear shocks, I noticed a tiny amount of oil coming out from where the 1 mm rebound knob would fit (just enough oil to rise to the top of the hole). I cleaned it out and left it overnight, and it's dry this morning. Assume this shock is fine to use, but let me know if I should have it checked.

Thanks!

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by DarkSunrise

Andy,

I noticed the directions call for a strap wrench to hold the shaft when tightening the top nut (both front and rear). On my RCE T2's, I was able to use a strap wrench for the fronts. But on the rears, only a small part of the shaft is exposed at the top and gets covered by the spring perch and top hat.



Is the proper way to tighten the top nuts on the rears to use a 17mm pass-through and an 8 mm extended socket to hold the shaft?

Also on one of the rear shocks, I noticed a tiny amount of oil coming out from where the 1 mm rebound knob would fit (just enough oil to rise to the top of the hole). I cleaned it out and left it overnight, and it's dry this morning. Assume this shock is fine to use, but let me know if I should have it checked.

Thanks!

Do NOT use the rebound adjuster to hold the shaft steady. Maybe I'm misinterpreting what you're asking? Feel free to give us a call...I'm not in but Larry or Myles can help.

Make sure you push the bumpstop/dustboot all the way down the shaft and you can adjust the spring perches to get a little more clearance for the strap wrench.

A little bit of weeping is normal when the shocks are new.

- Andrew

[redlined600]

Originally Posted by Racecomp Engineering

Do NOT use the rebound adjuster to hold the shaft steady. Maybe I'm misinterpreting what you're asking? Feel free to give us a call...I'm not in but Larry or Myles can help.

Make sure you push the bumpstop/dustboot all the way down the shaft and you can adjust the spring perches to get a little more clearance for the strap wrench.

A little bit of weeping is normal when the shocks are new.

- Andrew

I think what he's saying is using a socket on the actual shaft (at least mine is hex shaped on top) not the adjuster.