Raybestos ST43 brake pad review!!!!

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by rice_classic

Centric makes some of the absolute best rotors money can buy. They are worth 2x what we pay for them. Just outstanding.

I will let you know how the 45's do regarding rotor wear. To me, rotors are $35 a piece so I only care that they last just 1 weekend. The 42's say they're almost identical in hot rotor wear but that's not true at all the 42's almost seem like they add material to the rotor, they really are the friendliest race pad to rotors I've ever run. Tim said the 42 is the most expensive compound for Raybestos to produce too. The 45 is the successor of the 41. Tim said if the 43 isn't enough then you should jump the 45 as opposed to the 41.

Have you ever looked into the metallurgy of the rotors, and how rotor alloy can interact with the brake pads, ultimately affecting braking performance/feel?

While centrics are very good street rotors, I'm not a fan of them on track. They're the best *value* for the dollar though.

[rice_classic]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

Have you ever looked into the metallurgy of the rotors, and how rotor alloy can interact with the brake pads, ultimately affecting braking performance/feel?

While centrics are very good street rotors, I'm not a fan of them on track. They're the best *value* for the dollar though.

Well, I race in ITA/Honda Challenge so exotic brakes, BBKs and fancy rotors aren't legal.

If the class designates you cannot run anything other than an OEM equivalent blank, what is your rotor brand of choice?

edit: I should add, that I have tried the expensive rotors and they last just as long as the cheap NAPA/Autozone/PepBoys Chinese fare. Only the Centric can take the abuse we deliver and last more than 1 weekend. I used to change rotors every weekend, sometimes twice a weekend regardless of brand or price until I discovered the centric premiums.

[solidONE]

Rotors only lasting 1 weekend?!? You guys are crazy. I think I'd probably hurl if I rode shotgun in your cars.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by rice_classic

Well, I race in ITA/Honda Challenge so exotic brakes, BBKs and fancy rotors aren't legal.

If the class designates you cannot run anything other than an OEM equivalent blank, what is your rotor brand of choice?

edit: I should add, that I have tried the expensive rotors and they last just as long as the cheap NAPA/Autozone/PepBoys Chinese fare. Only the Centric can take the abuse we deliver and last more than 1 weekend. I used to change rotors every weekend, sometimes twice a weekend regardless of brand or price until I discovered the centric premiums.

I'm not talking about fancy rotors. Rather, I'm talking about OEM replacements, where the ONLY difference will be the metallurgy.

If the Centrics are lasting longer, then it's because the metallurgy of the Centric rotor mates well with the pad you're using

For example, Carbotechs and Raybestos like hard rotors like the Centric, while Project Mu likes softer rotors like Brembos and Project Mu rotors.

OEM rotors are generally softer.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by solidONE

Rotors only lasting 1 weekend?!? You guys are crazy. I think I'd probably hurl if I rode shotgun in your cars.

Small brakes, race pads, sticky tires... heat stress fractures the rotors.

[rice_classic]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

I'm not talking about fancy rotors. Rather, I'm talking about OEM replacements, where the ONLY difference will be the metallurgy.

If the Centrics are lasting longer, then it's because the metallurgy of the Centric rotor mates well with the pad you're using

For example, Carbotechs and Raybestos like hard rotors like the Centric, while Project Mu likes softer rotors like Brembos and Project Mu rotors.

OEM rotors are generally softer.

Makes sense, I get what you're saying but I don't think it's applicable here.
The metallugy to pad interface isn't the issue. The issue is heat, massive massive heat, generated by huge R-comps and 9.5" rotors on the front of a FWD car. Give me a carbotech (actually don't because they're terrible) or anything else and all the rotors will fail quickly, except the Centric. Every pad I've ever run performed the same on a Centric rotor vs any other rotor but the Centric rotor out performed every other rotor regardless of pad/compound. I'm not having a metallurgy compatibility issue, but that doesn't mean it's not a thing.

Instead of metallurgy I think the difference is in the construction. The Centric has better uniformity of the veins. The rotor heats and cools much more evenly and the metal might not actually be superior but this uniform heating/cooling seems to be a significant player in longevity.

From their website:


Even the over priced Brembos look like the picture on the right.

[glamcem]

I have been also using Centric rotors with Carbotech ( 2 track events when NA and 5-6 events after adding the XP12s and FI) I still cannot see any sign of crack but I think I have to measure the thickness..

I previously used them with ST43s and Stoptech pads with no problem in my previous cars. I also used Cryo treated Stoptechs, OEMs ..etc and I have a friend who cracked his DBA 4000 at Sebring (NA BRZ) so even if there's a difference in quality I think it's just marginal and isn't really worth it imo..

$35 vs $200 , the choice is clear for me at least until I get a BBK with 2 piece rotors..and the any other rotors between the Centric premiums and the replacement 2 piece rotors (which come with the BBK) doesn't make a sense to me, from a financial standpoint ..to each his own

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by glamcem

I have been also using Centric rotors with Carbotech ( 2 track events when NA and 5-6 events after adding the XP12s and FI) I still cannot see any sign of crack but I think I have to measure the thickness..

I previously used them with ST43s and Stoptech pads with no problem in my previous cars. I also used Cryo treated Stoptechs, OEMs ..etc and I have a friend who cracked his DBA 4000 at Sebring (NA BRZ) so even if there's a difference in quality I think it's just marginal and isn't really worth it imo..

$35 vs $200 , the choice is clear for me at least until I get a BBK with 2 piece rotors..and the any other rotors between the Centric premiums and the replacement 2 piece rotors (which come with the BBK) doesn't make a sense to me, from a financial standpoint ..to each his own

Stoptech and Centric Premiums are identical except the box...

Cryostops are cryo treated centrics.

When giant heat impulses are your problem the answer is BBK... unless you're restricted by class rules.

[glamcem]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

Stoptech and Centric Premiums are identical except the box...

Cryostops are cryo treated centrics.

When giant heat impulses are your problem the answer is BBK... unless you're restricted by class rules.

and that's exactly my point...I didn't know that and was a little biased against to the cheap rotors just like many other people who were spending on $100-300 on a single rotor .(people still do) ...and ever since I learned that I started saving additional $45-50 a piece ($35 vs 85) and couldn't be happier

[86ft.lb]

Will cryo treated one last longer, i.e. more track days until crack? I prefer paying more if it means less frequent labor on my side. I got cryo centric rotor for replacement, but I am not sure it really prolongs the life.

[glamcem]

I finally installed my Raybestos ST43s and the Cryo treated Centric premium blank rotors and rear rotors (no cryo option for rears)
I put all the three pads that I currently own side by side so that you can see the differences ,, front Carbotech XP12s are almost gone after 5 track events as you can see and the ST43 pads are thicker than the OEM pads ( I didn't use the OEM pads FYI, those were replaced by the Stoptech pads soon after I purchased the car)

It was a perfect fitment and I am happy with have they performed over the XP12s
















old Centric rotors after 7-8 track days