Question on rear toe

[sidebrake]

Hi Fellow FT86 Owners,

I'm preparing to install 18 inch wheels with coilovers and adjustable RLCA. Is an adjustable rear toe arm necessary if I want to zero out the rear toe or will I be able achieve zero with the stock toe arms?

I'm aiming to dial around -1.5 degrees of rear camber and only lowering enough to eliminate the wheel gape. Thanks to anyone that can provide some info on this.

-SB

[Ubersuber]

Just BTW I'm running 1.6 degrees negative with just Subaru camber bolts in the LCA.

If you lower the car you'll get more negative camber to begin with.

Unless you want even more extreme camber you should need a LCA.

Can't help you with the toe question.

[JDKane527]

I didn't realize subaru made camber bolts for the rear.

Using upper control arms is the "preferred" method of adjusting camber without changing geometry.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

[wparsons]

If you're going to need toe arms or not will depend on how much the camber is adjusted from what it naturally is for your ride height.

If you're dialing camber back to ~1.5 from ~2, then the stock toe arm should probably have enough adjustment.

A ~1" drop will put you around -2* in the rear without any adjustment, so if you want less you'll need adjustable arms (upper or lower) for sure. Upper arms are nice because they don't screw up the toe setting, but are more expensive and not as easy to adjust on the car.

[sidebrake]

Thanks Wparson,

I know for sure I will need an adjustable upper or lower arm to properly correct the rear camber after lowering with the coilovers. I'm just concerned about the stock toe arms not having enough adjustments to zero out after lowering and adjusting the camber, but sounds like I should be able to get zero with the stock toe arms based on your reply right?

[Element Tuning]

You can handle toe corrections with the OEM links but camber can be excessive if you lower too much. Remember you don't need as much static camber with the FRS/BRZ as gain negative camber as the suspension compresses.

Aftermarket links are more about correcting the camber and reducing geometry changes from high load cornering.

I wouldn't rush to zero toe with the OEM arms however since there's a lot of dynamic toe changes. With aftermarket arms that will hold the geometry more true you can go straight there

Thanks,
Phil Grabow

[wparsons]

You *should* be totally fine without aftermarket toe arms. Keep it in the back of your mind that you might be limited to how much camber they can dial out just in case, but you really shouldn't have any issues at all.

[sidebrake]

Phil,

Thanks for your input, that makes a lot of sense. Basically I should be fine with stock toe arms and setting toe to zero shouldn't be a problem but aftermarket arms will hold the alignment/geometry more true when suspension is under load. Gotcha.

[sidebrake]

Ok, I see. The amount of camber that can be dialed back out will depend on how low the coilovers are set right?

[Element Tuning]

Originally Posted by sidebrake

Ok, I see. The amount of camber that can be dialed back out will depend on how low the coilovers are set right?

Exactly so if you run very low you will have too much negative camber for optimal grip. You'll be hellaflush doe