Coilover Settings Database / Thread

[glamcem]

I have been searching for this but I couldn't find something that has the specific information, and instead of digging through everyone's build threads (if exist) I thought it would be a good idea to gather some data about the coilover settings in one spot and learn more about the other people's preferences and impressions on different coilover setups and settings with their effectiveness..

• [Please only share your track/autox specific settings with aftermarket coilovers ( Not really concerned with the street setup or OEM Strut and springs..those might be good topics for another thread though)
  
  
• Please don't bash other people's setups and use phrases such as "you get what you pay for it" or "you have cheap XYZ made coilovers, that is your problem".. simply because it is very counterproductive, rude and alienating others thus defeats the purpose of gathering more data which can be very helpful for those who are seeking for answers
  
  
• Double Entries are OK, Meaning...say for instance you tested your coilover settings and shared your setup details and impressions then you made a change in your settings (different tires, tire size, damper settings, different settings) ..Please report back and share with others whether or not it was an improvement..
  
  
• Please pay attention to the format/naming convention so it would be easier to track and compare your setup with someone else's..You may simply use the below as a template and copy/paste

Let me start with my setup,

Car: 2014 BRZ Limited
Estimated/Dynoed Wheel HP & WTQ: 275whp
Wheels and Tires: Enkei RPF1 17x9 +35mm with 235/40/17 Nitto NT01

Coilover Brand and Model: Fortune Auto 500 series V5
Spring type and rates (Front/Rear): Swift springs 9k F/ 9k R
Damper settings (Front/Rear): Front 20/24 (20 clicks from full soft or 4 clicks from full stiff) / Rear 16/24
Ride Height (Front/Rear): -1" F/ -1" R
Alignment(F/R): -3.1 F / -2.3 R (O toe all around)
Others(Camber plates, LCAs etc): Yes Camber plates and radial bearing with the kit

Aero(Front/Rear): @FT-86 SpeedFactory Front splitter/ Driveway Labs V1 Rear diffuser (@Wonderbar)

Overall impressions for track use: Overall, I am pretty happy with my setup but as I am still learning and playing with damper settings and different tires and compounds I believe I have room for improvement. One thing to mention, when I was lowered about -1.5" I had some rubbing issues at some hard corners at Oregon Raceway Park also I only had the front splitter which added a more downforce in the front and made the car a bit tail happy, after adding the rear diffuser it feels more planted now ..adjusting the front damper settings to stiffer setting helped a little bit but I recently raised the car about half inch and took it to the alignment place again to be on the safe side.. I want to try different damper settings and if necessary wider tires (255s) to gain more mechanical grip, I learned that stiffer doesn't necessarily mean better in some courses like Pacific raceways where there are many bumpy sections

[glamcem]

Wow, I've just noticed, 78 views and no contribution..
maybe it's best to delete this thread entirely

[CSG Mike]

It's difficult to do when every car is different. There's just too many variables.

For example, I've dialed in the damper settings of multiple sets of the same damper, but the damper settings are not universal.

[Scooby South]

Agree with CSG Mike... way to many variables.. Tires/pressures... ride height/rake... etc..
Bill

[glamcem]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

It's difficult to do when every car is different. There's just too many variables.

For example, I've dialed in the damper settings of multiple sets of the same damper, but the damper settings are not universal.

agree but many other discussion forums have a similar thread and I find them pretty useful.. as I said double entries are OK and in the notes section you may include the reason for that specific setup...

and of course, there will always be many variables but I wasn't trying to achieve a scientific research it's pretty much impossible with the data in hand (since it will never be uniform/normalized data) and same applies to other informative threads such as "brake pad discussion" "exhaust sound" etc..one can always say "hey wait a minute how did you come up with performance figures like the ones in the scorecards?" but I think it would be a good benchmark and insightful

Originally Posted by Scooby South

Agree with CSG Mike... way to many variables.. Tires/pressures... ride height/rake... etc..
Bill

way too many variables of what? car's overall performance? I can always make that list longer or any thread that gathers a relative information practically impossible to be complete.."tires pressures, ambient temps, humidity, amount of headwind, willingness to complete a qualifying lap, the burrito I ate that morning, jizz in my pants...etc"

I mean.. really? when was the last time we saw an approach and a thread like that It's a simple "plug in your coilover settings" sort of thread.. sometimes it is easier to keep it simple and stupid so the things will be easier to digest

[CSG Mike]

The biggest variable is driver. Skill levels, preferences, etc.

[DriftHappens]

add a column for driver level. (then always remember to subtract one from whatever they say, haha, i joke i joke).

I like the idea, I'm looking at getting some coilovers myself shortly. It would be nice to see what some of the others are running (settings wise) so it gives me a base to start at. Then i can adjust according to my style.

[glamcem]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

The biggest variable is driver. Skill levels, preferences, etc.

yes but they are the variables of different clusters we're only concerned about the settings of the coilovers as the title reads

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by glamcem

yes but they are the variables of different clusters we're only concerned about the settings of the coilovers as the title reads

What I'm saying is that different drivers may use different settings on the exact same coilovers.

I had this exact conversation today actually, with another S2000 driver. He uses what I believe to be a "wrong" valving on his coilovers.

Barring the damping curves, he also uses what I believe to be the "wrong" damper settings on his coilovers.

"wrong" in quotes, because he is faster on his settings than on my settings on his coilovers. I'm faster with my settings, than with his settings on his coilovers. So, who's right? Furthermore, how many drivers on this board actually have the opportunity to perform this type of testing? How many locals do you have that you're willing to push your car to see how fast they can lap it?

I've been graced with the opportunity to drive a lot of different setups on a lot of different cars locally, but there are plenty of owners who will not anyone else drive their cars.

[Sleepless]

For reference There is a similar thread for the Ohlins

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=61661

[phastafrican]

If this was for the same single adjustable coilovers like the ohlins thread above (and further more at the same track), I'd be interested. Autocross shock tuning varies from road course tuning. Driver preference is a huge factor. Very few guys on here have the luxury to really play with bump and rebound at a track day. Like everyone else has mentioned, the broad nature of the subject would not prove to be beneficial.

Now some beneficial info:Here's the guide I follow when setting up double adjustable coilovers at any track, although I have come to prefer single adjustable over the years. It's from an old Koni guide, but works out great.

Adjusting The COMPRESSION (Bump) Damping Control (Very Important to do this FIRST!)
Bump damping controls the unsprung weight of the vehicle (wheels, axles, etc.). It controls the upward movement of the suspension as when hitting a bump in the track. It should not be used to control the downward movement of the vehicle when it encounters dips. Also, it should not be used to control roll or bottoming.

Depending on the vehicle, the ideal bump setting can occur at any point within the adjustment range. This setting will be reached when "side-hop" or "walking" in a bumpy turn is minimal and the ride is not uncomfortably harsh. At any point other than this ideal setting, the "side-hopping" condition will be more pronounced and the ride may be too harsh.

STEP 1: Set all four dampers on minimum bump and minimum rebound settings.

STEP 2: Drive one or two laps to get the feel of the car. Note: When driving the car during the bump adjustment phase, disregard body lean or roll and concentrate solely on how the car feels over bumps. Also, try to notice if the car "walks" or "side-hops" on a rough turn.

STEP 3: Increase bump adjustment clockwise 3 clicks on all four dampers. Drive the car one or two laps. Repeat Step 3 until a point is reached where the car starts to feel hard over bumpy surfaces.

STEP 4: Back off the bump adjustment two clicks. The bump control is now set. Note: The back off point will probably be reached sooner on one end of the vehicle than the other. If this occurs, keep increasing the bump on the soft end until it, too, feels hard. Then back it off 2 clicks. The bump control is now set.

Adjusting the REBOUND Damping Control
Once you have found what you feel to be the best bump setting on all four wheels, you are now ready to proceed with adjusting the rebound. The rebound damping controls the transitional roll (lean) as when entering a turn. It does *not* limit the total amount of roll; it *does* limit how *fast* this total roll angle is achieved. How much the vehicle actually leans is determined by other things such as spring rate, sway bars, roll center, ride heights, etc.

It should be noted that too much rebound on either end of the vehicle will cause an initial loss of lateral acceleration (cornering grip) a that end which will cause the vehicle to oversteer or understeer excessively when entering a turn. Too much rebound control in relation to spring rate will cause a condition known as "jacking down." This is a condition where, after hitting a bump and compressing the spring, the damper does not allow the spring to return to a neutral position before the next bump is encountered.

This repeats with each subsequent bump until the car is actually lowered onto the bump stops. Contact with the bump stops causes a drastic increase in roll stiffness. If this condition occurs on the front, the car will understeer; if it occurs on the rear, the car will oversteer.

STEP 1: With rebound set on full soft and the bump control set from your earlier testing, drive the car one of two laps, paying particular attention to how the car rolls when entering a turn.

STEP 2: Increase rebound damping three sweeps (or 3/4 turn) on all four dampers and drive the car one or two laps. Repeat Step 2 until the car enters the turns smoothly (no drastic attitude changes) and without leaning excessively. An increase in the rebound stiffness beyond this point is unnecessary and may result in a loss of cornering power. Note: As with the bump settings, this point will probably be reached at one end of the car before the other.

However, individual drivers may find it desirable to have a car that assumes an oversteering or understeering attitude when entering a turn. This can be easily "dialed-in" using slightly excessive rebound settings at either end.