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Old 07-24-2014, 03:52 PM   #1793
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Originally Posted by FRS Johnny View Post
What are the pros and cons of toe in the back? I remember reading about it, but don't remember much.
It'll help stabilize the rear and keep the car easy to drive fast mostly.

- Andy
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Old 07-24-2014, 03:53 PM   #1794
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It might poke a little.

I'm running 18x8.5 +48 with 225/40/18 tires and it looks pretty flush to me. I've got pics in the wheel directory.
What camber are you at front and rear?
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Old 07-24-2014, 04:02 PM   #1795
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-1.5* in the front and -1* in the rear. Stock springs and shocks.

There is a ton of clearance in the rear but I only have a few mm of clearance to the spring perch in the front.
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Old 07-24-2014, 05:18 PM   #1796
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I've always eyed -2.0 F and -1.5 to -1.7 R with ~0.1 R toe in.

I'm running Tarmac 0s (so, same rate F/R). I was considering getting a front sway only, one with a mild increase in stiffness, like a 20mm solid bar. Would it help keep the front outside tire planted or should I just keep the stock sways?
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For that price anyone could get a c6z and have money for a simple heads cam package and make a bunch more power and have a superior handling car. This seems overpriced to say the least. "Have it your way" is basically offering someone a massive dildo to shove up their ass BUT they have the option of choosing the method in which it is inserted....
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Old 07-24-2014, 05:34 PM   #1797
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It'll help stabilize the rear and keep the car easy to drive fast mostly.

- Andy
I've seen people say they run a hair of toe-in on the rear and about a hair and a half of toe-out on the front. What is the purpose of toe-out on the front?

I'm trying to make sure I know what all the parts do, so when I tell the alignment guy specific requirements I know what I'm talking about.
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Old 07-25-2014, 02:47 PM   #1798
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I've a strano bar and I think it needs a bit of aligning (it only bangs on the passenger side)


what's the best way to do this, loosen the clip bolt accessable from below the car (that holds the bushing in place), then loosen the "collars" and just use hand force to move it around?


I remember just trying to clamp it down while it was on the bench was hard... I wonder if it's something I'd be able to do while on my back
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Old 07-25-2014, 03:04 PM   #1799
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Originally Posted by unsurety View Post
I've always eyed -2.0 F and -1.5 to -1.7 R with ~0.1 R toe in.

I'm running Tarmac 0s (so, same rate F/R). I was considering getting a front sway only, one with a mild increase in stiffness, like a 20mm solid bar. Would it help keep the front outside tire planted or should I just keep the stock sways?
I wouldn't use a stiffer front bar to keep the outside front tire planted. It will help keep the rear planted though. What kind of improvement are you looking for?

- Andy
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Old 07-25-2014, 03:13 PM   #1800
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gramicci101 View Post
I've seen people say they run a hair of toe-in on the rear and about a hair and a half of toe-out on the front. What is the purpose of toe-out on the front?

I'm trying to make sure I know what all the parts do, so when I tell the alignment guy specific requirements I know what I'm talking about.
Toe-out in the front will make the car eager to turn-in. This can sometimes make the car feel darty or wander on the highway at the extreme.

- Andy
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Old 07-25-2014, 03:55 PM   #1801
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Racecomp Engineering View Post
I wouldn't use a stiffer front bar to keep the outside front tire planted. It will help keep the rear planted though. What kind of improvement are you looking for?

- Andy
Truth be told, I'm not quite sure. I just want to budget for mods. I've seen people upgrade the front bar only, or even take out the rear sway for autox.

I'm sure stock sways on T0s will be fine. I probably need to do more driving. I've only done a couple of autox and taken it to canyon roads. The car went wide in autox, but that's probably due to my driving.
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For that price anyone could get a c6z and have money for a simple heads cam package and make a bunch more power and have a superior handling car. This seems overpriced to say the least. "Have it your way" is basically offering someone a massive dildo to shove up their ass BUT they have the option of choosing the method in which it is inserted....
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Old 07-25-2014, 04:13 PM   #1802
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Quote:
Originally Posted by unsurety View Post
Truth be told, I'm not quite sure. I just want to budget for mods. I've seen people upgrade the front bar only, or even take out the rear sway for autox.

I'm sure stock sways on T0s will be fine. I probably need to do more driving. I've only done a couple of autox and taken it to canyon roads. The car went wide in autox, but that's probably due to my driving.
Gotcha. IMO don't worry about the bars just yet. Get some more seat time and feel the car out a little more.

- Andy
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Old 07-25-2014, 04:25 PM   #1803
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Originally Posted by Racecomp Engineering View Post
Toe-out in the front will make the car eager to turn-in. This can sometimes make the car feel darty or wander on the highway at the extreme.

- Andy
So,
-1.5-2.5 front camber based on the limits of my camber bolt, 0 front toe, OEM caster.
-1.7-ish rear camber based on the natural camber from lowering springs (yellow ones), -1/32 toe on each side for a total of -1/16.

And this will produce a car that is responsive and fun, but still settled and well-mannered on long highway road trips? And not follow grooves in the road?

Sorry for asking so many minor questions, I just want to make sure I've got it down.
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Old 07-26-2014, 10:42 AM   #1804
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gramicci101 View Post
So,
-1.5-2.5 front camber based on the limits of my camber bolt, 0 front toe, OEM caster.
-1.7-ish rear camber based on the natural camber from lowering springs (yellow ones), -1/32 toe on each side for a total of -1/16.

And this will produce a car that is responsive and fun, but still settled and well-mannered on long highway road trips? And not follow grooves in the road?

Sorry for asking so many minor questions, I just want to make sure I've got it down.
Yup! Rear camber might end up being a little higher but that's OKAY.

- Andy
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Old 07-26-2014, 11:00 AM   #1805
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Racecomp Engineering View Post
Yup! Rear camber might end up being a little higher but that's OKAY.

- Andy
Quote:
Originally Posted by gramicci101 View Post
So,
-1.5-2.5 front camber based on the limits of my camber bolt, 0 front toe, OEM caster.
-1.7-ish rear camber based on the natural camber from lowering springs (yellow ones), -1/32 toe on each side for a total of -1/16.

And this will produce a car that is responsive and fun, but still settled and well-mannered on long highway road trips? And not follow grooves in the road?

Sorry for asking so many minor questions, I just want to make sure I've got it down.
I have the Tarmac springs, which have the same drop as the yellows and I'm at ~-2* rear camber from the drop.
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Old 07-27-2014, 04:41 PM   #1806
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What are the "staples" for making the car handle even better, bracing included. For Fox body Mustangs it was sub frame connectors, front strut tower brace and better springs.

What's this car's secret to "slot car" handling?
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