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Tracking / Autocross / HPDE / Drifting What these cars were built for! |
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#15 |
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I can't imagine what the FRS will feel like with R1's....that should be impressive!!
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#16 |
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thanks for the review, should be trying them soon as my track pad is gone already!
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#17 |
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Hey,
I just got my ST43 brake pad and just found out that they are made by porterfield!? its using the Porterfield box but it said St43 on the side. is your like that as well? |
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#18 |
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I've just ordered my ST43 (couple days ago) and have been told that it will be custom made so I think it's normal
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i was going to install them then find out...they made a wrong size one..... its like one size bigger. Now I don't know what to do, track day in 2 days.... FML
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#20 | |
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#21 | ||||
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@glamcem: You guys running a race-only pad on the street just blows my mind! Anyway, after using the 43's, if you feel you need a step up, you should try the 45's. I plan on using the 45's at the Ridge w/ NASA in August I tell you how they work compared to the 43. The problem I have with the 43 is that half the time they put down an irregular transfer layer and I end up getting horrible shutter. Part of the reason I rarely have the luxury of actually bedding pads, I usually need to toss them in a GO! Tim at RaceBrakes (porterfield) said the 41s and 45 are much less prone to this.
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The Following User Says Thank You to rice_classic For This Useful Post: | glamcem (07-25-2014) |
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#22 |
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#23 | |
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Thanks for the info, I will definitely give them a call and make sure ahead of time.. in my previous cars I had no problem with using ST43 on the street as they are not too harsh on the rotors and operating temps were not an issue the only problem was the noise especially with the Corvette's padlet design, OMG it was the most annoying noise I've ever had haha but since I don't have padlets it should be ok.. In addition to that, I have a separate set of pads and rotors (OEM) for street but I am too lazy to switch them back and forth , I know I can easily changed them in like 30 mins but since I don't really put a lot of miles on the car I figured I can at least keep them on the car for the summer season and replace them with the OEM rotors and pads ![]() I am looking at the differences between ST45 and ST41 on Raybestos' website and ST-43 looks like the sweet spot since the ave wear on the ST-41 is looks very big and it doesn't look like the multi purpose pads like the ST-43 and ST-45.. and ST-45 looks like it destroys the rotors (hot disc wear looks almost double with a slight advantage of initial bite and higher temp durability) but it's worth to try since I have been running Centric rotors and they are so cheap to replace, haha
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#24 |
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The st43 are 'tolerable' on the street, just watch out for the last couple feet before complete stop. Being a DD, the pedestrians glanced at the car making the noise as I drop/pick up kids from school haha. Besides that last couple feet, their fine on the street. On the track or spirited driving, that's another story - grip!! And yes the st41 and st45 can do more but that's not what I was recommended if I wanted to save rotors and 1% chance of street driven. These are on Brembo's 4pot and apparently Raybestos had the measurements already existing. LPI Racing (NorCal) has provided sets for a few.
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#25 |
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Are you kidding me? That'd take me all of 10 minutes. The part in green probably doesn't need to be ground down if it doesn't touch the rotor hat.
I've done this very same thing with S2000 pads for my CRX. The S2000 pad is the same shape as my CRX caliper just slighter larger so I just grind it down to fit. http://honda-tech.com/showpost.php?p...4&postcount=15 Use a sharpie to outline what you need to remove and get to work. ![]()
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#26 | |
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I will let you know how the 45's do regarding rotor wear. To me, rotors are $35 a piece so I only care that they last just 1 weekend. ![]()
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#27 | |
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#28 | |
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Skills schmills.. Go buy a $50 grinding wheel from Sears, some safety glasses and have at it. Seriously. Mark what you need to remove with a sharpie and just hold it to spinning grinding wheel until that part is no longer there. It takes literally no skill at all. Even the part that may contact the rotor hat, take that off too. Don't trust yourself? Grab a metal piece of something you don't care about and start grinding to get a feel for it. The $49.99 one is all he needs 1/6th HP http://www.sears.com/craftsman-1-6-h...2&blockType=G2 Or for the same price get the 3/4 HP one from Harbor Freight: http://www.harborfreight.com/garage-...der-39798.html
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