CSG and RCE tag-team suspension Q&A thread! Ask us anything!

[7thgear]

Originally Posted by bfsnail

Blunt, I know, but I already ****ed up once and am working on fixing it and the standard "you need to spend 5k+ on the kw v3s, forged wheels, and the best tires you can buy" is getting old. Especially for my DD car.

you can also sell everything and back to stock springs and wheels and just get a very nice set of tires (which are a consumable anyway, and which are not all that expensive if you stick to 215/225 / in 17")

nothing looks as good as good handling feels

[bfsnail]

Thanks gents!

I think I'm going to get some decent coilovers first because while I want better than stock handling, I don't really want to give up the ride height. A 1.5 to 2 inch drop on this car looks great and from what I've read is within the realm of a competent suspension setup.

Pending on how that and another alignment affect the car I may just stay with that for awhile. If its still terrible, I might start looking at a different sized wheel. But I am planning on going FI in the future, so I might just get a wider tire in preperation for that.

[7thgear]

Originally Posted by bfsnail

I think I'm going to get some decent coilovers first because while I want better than stock handling

why? do you race? what is it about the stock handling (which you never quite dialed-in in the first place) that you don't like?

[bfsnail]

Originally Posted by 7thgear

why? do you race? what is it about the stock handling (which you never quite dialed-in in the first place) that you don't like?

Nope, dont race at all. But I want to keep it around the same drop for looks and it sounds like the only way to be able to do that and still have decent handling is to use a decent set of coilovers, wheels and matched tires.

My end goal would be for the car to handle as well as it did stock or better (which I loved) without it looking like its stock (which I did not love).

[jvincent]

I think you are going to find that you'll be in one of those "choose two" scenarios. I.e. looks-handling-inexpensive, choose any two.

From my reading if you go with a 2" drop, or even 1.5" you have changed the suspension geometry enough that you need to start correcting for the drop, which means $$$.

[blackhawkdown]

I do not plan to track or auto cross my car. However I do want a better suspension setup for the streets and dd. Do you recommend just springs or springs and shocks?

[7thgear]

Originally Posted by blackhawkdown

II do want a better suspension setup for the streets and dd.

Better in what way? What is it that you mean by that word?

[ZionsWrath]

Originally Posted by bfsnail

The printout is from a local Firestone and just has the Toe listed as +0.10 degrees. I don't know what that is in inches or if that is in or out...

The specs I was trying to go off of are in this thread http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=11016

My previous alignment had 0 toe in the rear and had a lot of the same behavior

Looking at that post the guys stock alignment doesn't really make sense. That is way out of whack. Plus it doesn't look like the OEM parameters either. Mine doesn't look like that at all. This is the alignment I got, look at the parameters and my stock settings. This is just after I installed the OEM camber bolt.

[bfsnail]

Originally Posted by ZionsWrath

Looking at that post the guys stock alignment doesn't really make sense. That is way out of whack. Plus it doesn't look like the OEM parameters either. Mine doesn't look like that at all. This is the alignment I got, look at the parameters and my stock settings. This is just after I installed the OEM camber bolt.

Actually all your specs, except your front camber, are within the stock alignment.

I also found this post that lists the same numbers for the stock alignment parameters:
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=25001

I have almost the exact same alignment that the second OP ended up with except I have 0 toe in front.

[7thgear]

just generally wondering..


hoosier makes an A6 in a 345/35/17 (or 40/18)


that's just fucking nuts


I assume for this to be usable on a conventional car you'd need a complete aero setup (super high rates) to keep the wheels flat

and power... lots of power..

would a 345 even be considered to mount on the front wheels of an FRS? would it even turn. Jesus.

[ButtonMasher]

My friend has an FR-S and it's exactly like mine but with 2x as many miles. However when I drive it, it feels so much better. It stays flat in the corners while mine leans. And I'm able to break traction easier in his car. Overall his just feels stiffer and feels like it has better suspension even though it's bone stock. What's up with my FR-S?

[emutcfut]

Originally Posted by ButtonMasher

My friend has an FR-S and it's exactly like mine but with 2x as many miles. However when I drive it, it feels so much better. It stays flat in the corners while mine leans. And I'm able to break traction easier in his car. Overall his just feels stiffer and feels like it has better suspension even though it's bone stock. What's up with my FR-S?

Is his car a 2014? I notice a big difference in suspension feel after I put in the new subframe bolts.

[ButtonMasher]

Originally Posted by emutcfut

Is his car a 2014? I notice a big difference in suspension feel after I put in the new subframe bolts.

No it's also a 2013 like mine. Both cars are exactly the same

[gramicci101]

So, I don't track or autoX my car; it's purely my daily driver. When lowering with RCE yellows, how important is it to be able to adjust rear camber? Lowering will give me somewhere around -1.5 to -2 rear camber already. Everyone's immediate answer is rear LCAs, but are they really necessary at this level of expected usage?