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Old 07-15-2014, 02:47 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by Roadcone View Post
so the front doesnt have anywhere near as an aggressive camber curve as the rear? thats what i was wondering. I was considering leaving the rear at 2.whatever and figuring out how to deal with the front. i have ZERO chance of running a camber bolt up front if i lower with springs as i'm sure i can BARELY fit a sheet of paper between my tire and spring perch now. the car def needs more front camber after a drive this weekend on super sports.
You aren't changing the clearance. The wheel bolts to the hub, the hub/spindle bolts to the strut (is it even still called a spindle? I'm not sure, but that's what I'll call it). These do not move towards/away from each other. There is a tiny change in camber through the motion range on a strut suspension (our fronts), but it's not just the wheel that is tilting, it's the whole strut because they're essentially one piece. They pivot at the top hat and both ends of the LCA. Only camber bolts or slotted strut holes will have an effect on tire-perch clearance.

The rears have both upper and lower control arms, the shock/spring is mounted on the LCA and is independent of camber. Camber changes through the motion range because of the short upper and long lower control arms.

Factory spec is blegh, and probably not at all consistent side to side. Get some cheap camber bolts for the front and add a 3-5mm spacer if really needed. That won't blow anything up. Then get rear LCAs, they aren't all $500, just look around. As stated, the camber bushings are not really a DIY job and they are only good for a small range of adjustment. I hear alignment shops really don't like messing with them, but no personal experience with that myself.
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Old 07-15-2014, 02:51 PM   #16
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sounds like you got things backwards... camber bolts are used to GAIN extra camber up front, not to make it 0.
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Old 07-15-2014, 03:05 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by BRGT86 View Post
sounds like you got things backwards... camber bolts are used to GAIN extra camber up front, not to make it 0.
Well, both/either. They are for changing camber one way or the other. It's up to you what you want to set it to.

For instance, the "crash bolt" gets its name from correcting camber back to factory spec after a crash knocks things out of alignment.

Actually, your own wording is backwards from the point I think you're trying to make. "Gaining" camber implies an increase. Increase is towards positive. For performance, you want negative camber...so the idea is to LOSE it, not GAIN it.

I know, semantics...but if you're going to point out someone's mistake, at least get your own wording right.

Edit: I should point out, I'm not trying to be an ass. Shoulda put a smiley in there somewhere...
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Old 07-15-2014, 03:45 PM   #18
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yeah semantics. all good. meant to say "gain negative camber" as in "negative camber" being treated as one thing, not so much the neg/pos aspect of it. but thats just semantics too lol.
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Old 07-15-2014, 05:38 PM   #19
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Old 07-17-2014, 09:25 AM   #20
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i've just decided i'm doing camber bolts and 10mm spacers up front so i can get a degree and a half or so. i really dont want to hammer out the stock studs and press in the new ones :/
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Old 07-17-2014, 09:58 AM   #21
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I put Tein S-Techs on my car. Should I even bother correcting the camber? Just a DD, going more for looks than anything else.
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Old 07-17-2014, 10:25 AM   #22
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I put Tein S-Techs on my car. Should I even bother correcting the camber? Just a DD, going more for looks than anything else.
YES you should bother. Camber isn't the issue here.
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Old 07-17-2014, 12:28 PM   #23
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Will be getting mine aligned today or tomorrow. Just put on the Sportlines and SPC LCA's this week. I turned the toe all the way in on the factory adjustments in the rear and pulled the camber all the way in as well. Didn't mess with the front.
Without doing this the car felt like it was gonna wander in the lane. just back and forth horribly. After the Toe/camber adjustment it tracks nice and straight.
I'm also on H&R 25mm r/15mm f spacers.
So what I'm reading here is, for a spirited driver/ no track time or DD, I should try for -1.5* to -2* in the front and around -2* in the rear?
Thanks in advance to whoever pitches in. Completely new to suspension alterations.
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