My BRZ seems to be going airborne

[Fr-s.h]

Originally Posted by Createddeleted

It needs it even if you lower the car just 3/4" ...

Here's a few tidbits from toyota:

Perform VSC sensor neutral memorization

- While obtaining the zero point, keep the vehicle stationary and do not vibrate, tilt, move, or shake it. (Do not start the engine)

- Be sure to perform this procedure in a level surface (with an inclination of less than 1 degree). DO NOT PERFORM THIS PROCEDURE UNLESS YOU CAN CONFIRM YOU ARE ON A LEVEL SURFACE LIKE A CALIBRATED ALIGNMENT LIFT.

When VSC sensor neutral memorization is performed, the yaw rate and acceleration sensor and the steering sensor zero point calibration are performed at the same time.

(E) connect the techstream to DLC3

(h) enter the following menus: chassis/ ABS/VSC/TRAC / Utility / VSC Sensor Neutral Memorization

So I can ask for this to be done at my dealer ship next time I take it in? I havent had these issues really after my sportlines install but I can break traction easier, since im planning on adjusting my setup to include coils, lcas and toe arms, I wanted to be prepared for what to expect.

Good luck OP.

[Jive Turkey]

why so much rear camber, you absolutely do not need that. i keep trying to take more out and add more in the front. currently i'm at -1.5 rear -2.1 front. rear toe in, front toe out. car handles like an animal.

i'm also running 6k front 7k rear (AST) and have zero issues at high speeds. seems like something is off here for you...

[Fastbrew]

Rechecked - it's running -2.5 camber at rear. The Racecomp (not whiteline) was set at full firm in the rear. Pulling that back to midway to match the front.

The front camber is tapped out on the Feals at about ~-1.7/8 - I am looking to add Vorshlags to get it to more closely match the rear.

Why this much camber? I like the way it corners / feels /looks (other than my inside tire lifting due to the overly stiff rear sway which should be tweaked this afternoon) - I like the way it handles without needing to brake. I just don't like losing traction when accelerating out of corners! (Or at high speeds over contoured pavement!) It looks really good too

Tow is 1/2 degree out at front and 0 at the back.
Caster is currently not adjustable in my current setup. I believe the Vorshlags add in a degree of positive caster on the front plates.

It's fun playing with this stuff. Once I get the rest of the car dialed in with the turbo, etc - I am looking forward to corner balancing it to dial it in perfectly.

Thanks to everyone in this thread who has responded and offered advice. Suspension is something I am just learning. I know what I like but how that translates into physics, mechanics, settings etc is really awesome to dig into.

[juliog]

Stating the obvious here perhaps, but have you checked your tire pressures in case they're over inflated? Also -2.5 rear camber is quite a lot for a street car that doesn't see the track often.

[Fastbrew]

Originally Posted by juliog

Stating the obvious here perhaps, but have you checked your tire pressures in case they're over inflated? Also -2.5 rear camber is quite a lot for a street car that doesn't see the track often.

TP is good. I spoke with Odi at Feal and he mentioned a couple of things -
1) the amount of camber in the rear is not a great matchup for cone dodging.

Basically, he said that if you ran the car through the cones with limited camber and the factory sway bar - he is guessing that the time would be faster than with the current setup. I believe he is right!

He also pointed out that there is a little extra front camber adjustment at the bottom of his setup with the little cam bolt.

Anyway - I had the rear sway bar set to medium (may go to totally soft later). I am going to adjust his one way system to have more rebound - that should stick the tires down better.

I am going to drive it awhile as is and then modify as needed.

The car is beautiful as is from the factory. It is soooo much fun to play with!

I will probably end up reducing the camber rear and front, softening up the rear a bit to increase traction and get ready for adding the turbo. I want the rear to be planted for that. It will be an interesting puzzle to get dialed in for daily driving and "just for fun" cones and tracks.

[wparsons]

Originally Posted by Fastbrew

Rechecked - it's running -2.5 camber at rear. The Racecomp (not whiteline) was set at full firm in the rear. Pulling that back to midway to match the front.

The front camber is tapped out on the Feals at about ~-1.7/8 - I am looking to add Vorshlags to get it to more closely match the rear.

You want less resting camber in the rear than the front. If you're going to go with ~-2* up front you'll want about -1.25* to -1.5* in the back. The reason is that the front struts don't gain any real camber during compression but the rears do, so under cornering you'll be getting even more unbalanced camber.

[Jive Turkey]

toe in the rear...it will make it more stable. put the bar to full soft in the rear (it will still be stiffer than stock)

take out rear camber to like -1.5 and dial in front to somewhere around -2/2.3. toe out the front. i promise you that will handle really well. i thought the car handled like crap when it had more than 2 of camber in the rear...at one point when my old suspension was settling i was at -3.1 and i did not like that at all.

[Createddeleted]

Originally Posted by Fr-s.h

So I can ask for this to be done at my dealer ship next time I take it in? I havent had these issues really after my sportlines install but I can break traction easier, since im planning on adjusting my setup to include coils, lcas and toe arms, I wanted to be prepared for what to expect.

Good luck OP.

Yes.

[Fastbrew]

Originally Posted by Createddeleted

Yes.

As a side note - I stopped in to the dealership (Subaru) today to let them have a crack at cricket removal. I brought up this procedure and they looked at me like I was from the moon. One of the managers stepped in and said he was interested in learning more (Amazing!) and thought this might be a Toyota thing.

I am going to send him some info and see what they say. (I am sure that whatever applies to the GT/FRS goes for the BRZ.)

[Fr-s.h]

Originally Posted by Fastbrew

As a side note - I stopped in to the dealership (Subaru) today to let them have a crack at cricket removal. I brought up this procedure and they looked at me like I was from the moon. One of the managers stepped in and said he was interested in learning more (Amazing!) and thought this might be a Toyota thing.

I am going to send him some info and see what they say. (I am sure that whatever applies to the GT/FRS goes for the BRZ.)

I was expecting the same type of response followed by "it will void your warranty" lol

We shall see I guess.

[Fastbrew]

Originally Posted by Fr-s.h

I was expecting the same type of response followed by "it will void your warranty" lol

We shall see I guess.

I sent him the link to TechStream on the Toyota site. Also - the info that someone provided earlier in the thread. I asked him - "Do you have the tool and a level surface?" He said he would get back to me. I told him not to sweat it too hard as I could probably figure this out with Toyota/Scion and a phone. Or - just not worry about it