My BRZ seems to be going airborne

[totopo]

are you sure everything is installed correctly? I would be suprised if a 1" drop would cause in-lift with a stock rear sway bar.

With more significantly lowered cars, roll center is usually to blame for inlift.

don't try to fix in-lift with tender springs. Get better/longer main springs if your springs are too short and don't get you to full droop.

[Captain Snooze]

Have you tried playing around with the damper adjustment? If the adjuster only alters rebound I am guessing that would be a good place to start. It's free and easily repeatable.

[Fastbrew]

Originally Posted by Captain Snooze

Have you tried playing around with the damper adjustment? If the adjuster only alters rebound I am guessing that would be a good place to start. It's free and easily repeatable.

That's where I am going to start. Also totopo, it's not a stock sway bar. It has an adjustable Whiteline + the brackets. It's setup pretty stiff. I think between these two items the rear wheels will stay down a little better...

[Createddeleted]

You can also reset the system in tech stream as you're supposed to do when you lower the vehicle. might make the difference.

[Fastbrew]

Originally Posted by Createddeleted

You can also reset the system in tech stream as you're supposed to do when you lower the vehicle. might make the difference.

Wouldn't it show up with a warning light just rolling around 'regular' if it needed it? I have a trip to the dealer planned for a stab at cricket removal. I will ask them if that needs to be done too...

Thanks!

[totopo]

Originally Posted by Fastbrew

That's where I am going to start. Also totopo, it's not a stock sway bar. It has an adjustable Whiteline + the brackets. It's setup pretty stiff. I think between these two items the rear wheels will stay down a little better...

uhhhhh..... aren't those spring rates like double the stock ones? If so why are you running stiff anti-roll bars? Definitely loosen that rear anti-roll bar. If you want to change the balance, then I would think it's better to loosen the front anti-roll bar.

[Fastbrew]

Originally Posted by totopo

uhhhhh..... aren't those spring rates like double the stock ones? If so why are you running stiff anti-roll bars? Definitely loosen that rear anti-roll bar. If you want to change the balance, then I would think it's better to loosen the front anti-roll bar.

I think they are 2.7K front and 3.5K rear as stock on the BRZ.
And these are 7K and 6K. So, quite a bit of difference.

I want it flat as hell in tight cornering so I guess I am getting what I wanted. It's job is to lift my inside wheel and that's what it is doing.

I will take it out and run some cones and take it to the track, I think.

Honestly, this is the most dialed in sports car I have ever owned so some of what I am experiencing is probably driving a properly setup car for the first time.

It just threw me for a loop at higher speed. I hadn't thought about that yet!

Tweak and learn, I guess.

Can't wait for my first HPDE at the track.

[Captain Snooze]

Originally Posted by Fastbrew

I think they are 2.7K front and 3.5K rear as stock on the BRZ.
And these are 7K and 6K. So, quite a bit of difference.

Given the motion ration at the rear OP has gone much softer at the rear than front.
Standard f/r spring rate at the wheel is approximately 2.4k/1.97k.
After market is 6.3k/3.4k which is quite a difference f/r. I would have thought that a stiffer rear bar would have been appropriate in this case.
I understand this is not addressing OP's problem.

[Fastbrew]

Originally Posted by Captain Snooze

Given the motion ration at the rear OP has gone much softer at the rear than front.
Standard f/r spring rate at the wheel is approximately 2.4k/1.97k.
After market is 6.3k/3.4k which is quite a difference f/r. I would have thought that a stiffer rear bar would have been appropriate in this case.
I understand this is not addressing OP's problem.

You know, I have been thinking about it this evening and I am not sure this is a problem. It's just different than what I am used to and I am not used to a suspension dialed in like this. I think playing with the Feal settings a little and taking it out to the track with an experienced driver (friend happens to be an instructor - woot) and letting them give it the once over on the track and around some cones will be more beneficial than me making guesses.

I think making sure that the options are set correctly in TechStream is a good idea. I will check with someone who has it running (dealer or my tuner) or maybe delve into it myself. Looks cool and I am an IT guy by trade.

[totopo]

Originally Posted by Fastbrew

I think they are 2.7K front and 3.5K rear as stock on the BRZ.
And these are 7K and 6K. So, quite a bit of difference.

I want it flat as hell in tight cornering so I guess I am getting what I wanted. It's job is to lift my inside wheel and that's what it is doing.

I will take it out and run some cones and take it to the track, I think.

Honestly, this is the most dialed in sports car I have ever owned so some of what I am experiencing is probably driving a properly setup car for the first time.

It just threw me for a loop at higher speed. I hadn't thought about that yet!

Tweak and learn, I guess.

Can't wait for my first HPDE at the track.

Anti roll bars are more important in autox w frequent transitions that road courses. Roll doesn't really do much for road courses. Don't sacrifice real traction for subjective roll. The stiffer suspension you have, the lighter anti-roll bars you need. Taking out your rear Anti-roll bar to prevent inlift will help traction more than having less roll.

Roll does not equal weight shift. It means nothing in static cornering and only really has meaninings in transitions and driver subjective preference.

Did you ask the feal people what antiroll bar you should be running? I have a feeling those spring rates are set up for stock Frs antiroll bar.

Super flat handling is NOT ideal, or else race cars wouldn't have suspension.

[Fastbrew]

Originally Posted by totopo

Did you ask the feal people what antiroll bar you should be running? I have a feeling those spring rates are set up for stock Frs antiroll bar.

Super flat handling is NOT ideal, or else race cars wouldn't have suspension.

That's a great point - I am going to get the car parameters set straight in techstream - do a little driving to be able to reproduce the behavior - there is an exit ramp near home that has done it twice - see if it changes after the techstream. In the meantime - I will fire an email off to Odi at Feal and tell him the config/behavior and see what he says too.

Thanks for the responses!

[wparsons]

Originally Posted by Fastbrew

I want it flat as hell in tight cornering so I guess I am getting what I wanted. It's job is to lift my inside wheel and that's what it is doing.

Are you coming from a FWD car? The last thing you want to do on a RWD car is lift the inside rear tire. Lifting an inside wheel on a FWD car isn't ideal, but it's usually the only way to get them to rotate.

Forget everything you know about setting up a car if your only experience is FWD, you're working with a totally different beast here.

[Fastbrew]

Originally Posted by wparsons

Are you coming from a FWD car? The last thing you want to do on a RWD car is lift the inside rear tire. Lifting an inside wheel on a FWD car isn't ideal, but it's usually the only way to get them to rotate.

Forget everything you know about setting up a car if your only experience is FWD, you're working with a totally different beast here.

No - a Jeep and before that a WRX. I think the bar in back might be a tad big. Fun stuff! Cool to have a car that is adjustable.

[Createddeleted]

Originally Posted by Fastbrew

Wouldn't it show up with a warning light just rolling around 'regular' if it needed it? I have a trip to the dealer planned for a stab at cricket removal. I will ask them if that needs to be done too...

Thanks!

It needs it even if you lower the car just 3/4" ...

Here's a few tidbits from toyota:

Perform VSC sensor neutral memorization

- While obtaining the zero point, keep the vehicle stationary and do not vibrate, tilt, move, or shake it. (Do not start the engine)

- Be sure to perform this procedure in a level surface (with an inclination of less than 1 degree). DO NOT PERFORM THIS PROCEDURE UNLESS YOU CAN CONFIRM YOU ARE ON A LEVEL SURFACE LIKE A CALIBRATED ALIGNMENT LIFT.

When VSC sensor neutral memorization is performed, the yaw rate and acceleration sensor and the steering sensor zero point calibration are performed at the same time.

(E) connect the techstream to DLC3

(h) enter the following menus: chassis/ ABS/VSC/TRAC / Utility / VSC Sensor Neutral Memorization