Got a track related question? I'll try to answer.

[ZionsWrath]

Originally Posted by jvincent

You'll probably have to run a pretty low offset to run 9" up front if you want to stay flush or less.

Check the wheel fitment thread for the offsets that end up being flush.

I know it wont fit stock with camber. That is kind of my point and reason for asking. What size can fit with stock or strut/spring and use 245 and not be mexiflush. 8.5 would be good i think but there is hardly any choice in that size

[jvincent]

Originally Posted by ZionsWrath

I know it wont fit stock with camber. That is kind of my point and reason for asking. What size can fit with stock or strut/spring and use 245 and not be mexiflush. 8.5 would be good i think but there is hardly any choice in that size

I feel your pain. I went around this circle many times in the last week or so trying to decide on wheels that would fit a 245, not rub, and not look like ass.

In the end I just said fuck it and I'm going with 8" wheels and 225 tires.

[dradernh]

Originally Posted by jvincent

I went around this circle many times in the last week or so trying to decide on wheels that would fit a 245, not rub, and not look like ass.

Assuming it would help with fender rub, how big a drama is it to roll the fenders on a twin?

[jvincent]

Originally Posted by dradernh

Assuming it would help with fender rub, how big a drama is it to roll the fenders on a twin?

More drama that I would be will to undertake.

As much as I thought I wanted 245s, in the end common sense took over.

[nyfries]

Doesn't lighter rims really make that much of a difference to a beginner? Have a chance to grab a set of 17x9 rota torque. Seems to be slightly lighter than stock but def heavier than the rpf1 I wanted. It is also half the price. Does the weight saving of the rpf1 warrant another $600? Money that could be use to put towards nice tire?

[7thgear]

Originally Posted by nyfries

Doesn't lighter rims really make that much of a difference to a beginner? Have a chance to grab a set of 17x9 rota torque. Seems to be slightly lighter than stock but def heavier than the rpf1 I wanted. It is also half the price. Does the weight saving of the rpf1 warrant another $600? Money that could be use to put towards nice tire?

RPF1s will outlive their investment (unless you bang them) and you can always re-coup their cost later in life.




I've a set of Kosei K1s that I bought in 2005, they are still alive, money well spent.

[CSG David]

Originally Posted by 7thgear

RPF1s will outlive their investment (unless you bang them) and you can always re-coup their cost later in life.




I've a set of Kosei K1s that I bought in 2005, they are still alive, money well spent.

Bent so many RPF1s...now I just spend time making sure I don't hit certain spots. It's okay to lose a couple tenths just to preserve wheels...hahahah

[7thgear]

Originally Posted by CSG David

Bent so many RPF1s...now I just spend time making sure I don't hit certain spots. It's okay to lose a couple tenths just to preserve wheels...hahahah

have they always been like that?


nowdays I really don't know which brand to trust, seems like everyone is cutting corners.

[nyfries]

How about rota? Seems like a lot of ppl track their rota without problems?

[kavanagh]

Originally Posted by nyfries

How about rota? Seems like a lot of ppl track their rota without problems?

I can't really quantify it, but I seem to recall seeing more busted Rotas than Enkeis posted around the interwebs...


Rotas have a tendency to shatter, while Enkeis tend to bend which is safer.

[dradernh]

Originally Posted by 7thgear

nowdays I really don't know which brand to trust, seems like everyone is cutting corners.

That's when you begin to consider what it would take to acquire forged one-piece wheels.

[D K]

Originally Posted by CSG David

Bent so many RPF1s...now I just spend time making sure I stay on the track

[gramicci101]

Originally Posted by dradernh

That's when you begin to consider what it would take to acquire forged one-piece wheels.

Volks are forged, and I see a lot of people running those. So are Advans, but they're pricier. Mach V wheels are less expensive, but they're flow formed.

If I were genuinely building a track car I'd have to do some research about the different forging, casting, and flow forming techniques before making a decision, but lightweight high end wheels would be somewhere on my list of things to buy. As it is, they look awesome, but I won't be buying them.

[Kiske]

Had my first track day today. Really re-fell in love with the car. For my first time out I decided to keep the stock equipment and tires. I was really suprised with how well the car did on them in a track enviorment.

Went out with all off (hold down trac for 3+seconds) and am glad I did. The car was very predicitible and I felt much better. Only had the tc light flash once when I had to yeild to another infront of me completely screwing up my rythem and line.

My question. On the track I was at there is one turn in which you come out of a "S" into a very slow left hand turn (around 30 degree angle.) In this turn I could hit the apex however to do so I had to drop into 2nd gear. All the instructors told me to just waste the turn, throw it away and just focus on getting through it slowly and back on the gas as quickly as possible. Making it though the turn I come put somewhere low 2500-3000 rpm range way out of the BRZ's idea rpm range. Should I go ahead and dropped into first gear? Comming out of the turn felt like the slowest thing on the track.