In for the long haul Ultimate NA build thread.

[Fear]

So you're gonna run an fb25 crank for more displacement and 90mm bore to match the 90mm stroke. Custom (probably higher comp) pistons..

What rods are you going to use? Fa20's have larger rod bearing journals than fb25(correct me if im wrong) so would you have a hybrid custom rod, basicly an fa20 rod with fb25 rod bearings?

This would basicly be an hks stroker kit...

[jebuwh]

I'm way interested in the water pump! More info on that?

[w00t692]

The gains i've seen from electric water pumps aren't even remotely worth the hassle. Not even 5 whp. Granted it's on a k20, but still.

[protpibe]

Originally Posted by celek

Here is a HUGE announcement for the project.
I have been working on this for a LONG time. Lots of R&D. Specifically made for the 86 Chassis. Bolt on plug in play.

Did you make this yourself? Or what shop made it?

[arghx7]

Is the electric water pump going to be running at full speed all the time? From the perspective of power output improvement, to get maximum parasitic loss reduction you really need to tune the pump flow rate. That's a pretty involved process depending on how precise you want to get. The simplest way to do it is to turn the pump speed down on the dyno and see if you even pick up any power.

Otherwise you now have this aftermarket waterpump that you better hope doesn't fail, or your gazillion dollar long haul build will be in jeopardy. It's a pretty risky move.

[Roadcone]

water pump should pick up 5-10hp. on LS1's it seems to be about that much and thats only turning 6500rpm. you can run a pump controller to slow it down in traffic and during street driving. one issue we ran into was it moving too much coolant while stuck in traffic or on the highway and causing the car to run cold.

[arghx7]

The simplest way to run it is full on all the time (or at least when the engine is firing). If you have a controller maybe turn it down for WOT in an attempt to maximize parasitic loss reduction for better output. The problem then is you can overcool as mentioned above.

If you look at how electric and other types of controllable waterpumps are run on vehicles that come with them from the factory (BMWs for example), you'll see flow rate varying with speed and load and also turning off during a cold start. They can work with the thermostat to control water temperature and also the temperature rise across the engine by varying flow rate.

[Turdinator]

Davies Craig sells a EWP controller but it looks as though most of its control algorithms are based around warm up and once the car is up to temp it is on full the whole time.

http://www.daviescraig.com.au/Electr...0-details.aspx

[Grip Ronin]

i know how these na civics are. i have a turbo gsr, 45k on it, Just sits around now but going boost really killed the car personality. not to mention its way too fast lol i want to keep the frs na but i seriously need to stop losing to s2ks

[celek]

Originally Posted by w00t692

The gains i've seen from electric water pumps aren't even remotely worth the hassle. Not even 5 whp. Granted it's on a k20, but still.

HP is not always the only reason

Cavitation:
Formation of vapour bubbles within a liquid at low-pressure regions that occur in places where the liquid has been accelerated to high velocities, as in the operation of centrifugal pumps, water turbines, and marine propellers.

I plan on exceeding 9000 RPM

[celek]

Originally Posted by Turdinator

Davies Craig sells a EWP controller but it looks as though most of its control algorithms are based around warm up and once the car is up to temp it is on full the whole time.

http://www.daviescraig.com.au/Electr...0-details.aspx

Small problem there trying to work a pump at slower speed/votlage against fluid is not going to work.

I ran this same pump on my Civic for 5 years not a problem

[celek]

Originally Posted by arghx7

Is the electric water pump going to be running at full speed all the time? From the perspective of power output improvement, to get maximum parasitic loss reduction you really need to tune the pump flow rate. That's a pretty involved process depending on how precise you want to get. The simplest way to do it is to turn the pump speed down on the dyno and see if you even pick up any power.

Otherwise you now have this aftermarket waterpump that you better hope doesn't fail, or your gazillion dollar long haul build will be in jeopardy. It's a pretty risky move.

Pump should be good for 90k miles rated on advertised hour expectancy

[celek]

Originally Posted by protpibe

Did you make this yourself? Or what shop made it?

I built it the harness and designed the bracket/blockoff plate and pump location.

[celek]

Originally Posted by Fear

So you're gonna run an fb25 crank for more displacement and 90mm bore to match the 90mm stroke. Custom (probably higher comp) pistons..

What rods are you going to use? Fa20's have larger rod bearing journals than fb25(correct me if im wrong) so would you have a hybrid custom rod, basicly an fa20 rod with fb25 rod bearings?

This would basicly be an hks stroker kit...

Custom rods and custom pistons to retain a good rod to stroke ratio. (Which the HKS kit can not do and that's probably a $4500 kit