SCCA Solo C Street Discussion

[vroom4]

That would require physical ability, of which I have none.

Heck, I already got out of chasing cones after like 5 events by "taking on more responsbility". Chief positions saved my life.

[TRev]

I was speaking at Spring Nationals to a multi-time National champ and the 370Z came up in the conversation. I asked him what he thought and his answer made me ...he said, you put all the keys in front of me for C Street cars and I would be picking up the keys to the Z.

Looking forward to seeing how things shake out

[travisb]

Originally Posted by travisb

Ok. I ordered two front camber bolts, part 90100039, and I should have them Friday.

FYI - Make sure you also get nuts for these bolts. I was getting my alignment done and at first they said these are not alignment bolts, just normal strut bolts. Then I found out that they replace the top bolts which are 16mm and these are 14mm. So they look the same, but are smaller, and that allows the adjustment. And since they are 14mm and not 16mm, you also need extra nuts for them.

==============
EDIT
Ignore what I said above. Merchant's Tire had an amazingly difficult time getting this done. At first they were confused (and I was too) because it was not a typical "camber" bolt. Then I explained that the top bolt is 16mm and the new one is 14mm. That's where the "requirement" for a different nut came in. Then @goncept below explained the issue with the nuts. I told Merchant's. Then they took out the bolt and said it was the same as the ones I brought. They even measured both to compare. I was like WTF is going on. Then I asked if they pulled the lower or upper bolt. They had pulled the lower. I asked them to pull the upper. He said he can tell by looking at them that the upper and lower are the same. I asked him to do it anyway. He did. And then they completed the alignment. This involved two technicians who do alignments several times a day and the service manager. They were all dumbfounded by this configuration.

Anyway, I ended up with
-1.2 camber FL/FR
0 toe FL/FR
-0.9/-1.2 camber RL/RR (was already like that)
0.05 toe RL/RR

[qoncept]

Originally Posted by travisb

FYI - Make sure you also get nuts for these bolts. I was getting my alignment done and at first they said these are not alignment bolts, just normal strut bolts. Then I found out that they replace the top bolts which are 16mm and these are 14mm. So they look the same, but are smaller, and that allows the adjustment. And since they are 14mm and not 16mm, you also need extra nuts for them.

No you don't. The upper bolts have a 16mm shank but it tapers down to 14mm threads. Same nuts.

[Sccabrz192]

Originally Posted by TRev

I was speaking at Spring Nationals to a multi-time National champ and the 370Z came up in the conversation. I asked him what he thought and his answer made me ...he said, you put all the keys in front of me for C Street cars and I would be picking up the keys to the Z.

Looking forward to seeing how things shake out

I'd be very much tempted to grab a set of 2000 BMW M-Roadster or coupe keys myself....

[travisb]

Since I anticipate sliding all day again on the stock tires, is there any advantage in leaving traction or stability turned on? Last time out I just held the button a few seconds to disable both. I have not tried the pedal dance.

After the last autox, I was wondering if I would have been faster if I had tried going slower. Maybe not pushing as hard will help stay within the limited grip of the tires and end up making a faster overall time. If that makes any sense.

[renfield90]

Originally Posted by travisb

Since I anticipate sliding all day again on the stock tires, is there any advantage in leaving traction or stability turned on? Last time out I just held the button a few seconds to disable both. I have not tried the pedal dance.

Leave it off. The electronics will hamper your learning of this car's habits.

Originally Posted by travisb

After the last autox, I was wondering if I would have been faster if I had tried going slower. Maybe not pushing as hard will help stay within the limited grip of the tires and end up making a faster overall time. If that makes any sense.

Yes and no. If you slow down too much, well...it just becomes slow. But if you're too aggressive you absolutely will hurt your times because you won't be able to stay on the optimal line. This is largely why driving fast is hard.

I liked 45f/43r on the OEM tires. Bring a water sprayer, they do NOT like heat.

[xwd]

Originally Posted by Sccabrz192

I'd be very much tempted to grab a set of 2000 BMW M-Roadster or coupe keys myself....

I drove one some time ago at an autocross. The issue with the car it is it's porky at >3000lbs, and the chassis isn't very good. It's horribly floppy and the car just doesn't feel right at an autocross. It feels like you are driving a 3500lb car. The motor is great though.

I wouldn't take one over a BRZ/FR-S and certainly not over a 370Z.

I'm sort of hoping the 370Z dominates at nationals and gets moved, but if Fenter's driving the NC Miata I'm not sure that's going to happen.

[travisb]

Originally Posted by renfield90

Leave it off. The electronics will hamper your learning of this car's habits.


Yes and no. If you slow down too much, well...it just becomes slow. But if you're too aggressive you absolutely will hurt your times because you won't be able to stay on the optimal line. This is largely why driving fast is hard.

I liked 45f/43r on the OEM tires. Bring a water sprayer, they do NOT like heat.

Today was a practice autox. Tomorrow is the real one.

I got about 10 runs. The first 5 runs or so I alternated between everything off and VSC sport mode. Each time I was a few tenths faster in VSC sport. Then I was finally able to get faster and faster with everything off. The key seemed to be to take some of the harder turns slower so I slid less and was able to gt back on throttle earlier and under control.

My tires started at 35 PSI and increased to about 39 all around.

Here's a picture of my tire with a chalk line to show the wear.

small - http://i.imgur.com/vR6dSTLl.jpg
full size - http://i.imgur.com/vR6dSTL.jpg

And a couple videos:
[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y7n0ZEEBSFg"]2014 Subaru BRZ VMSC Practice Autox 2014-06-07 - YouTube[/ame]
[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0MGF1dDUMuM"]2014 Subaru BRZ VMSC Practice Autox 2014-06-07 - YouTube[/ame]

I know I need to get better tires, but they are not in the budget right now and will have to wait a few months.

[JB86'd]

Some footage from this Sunday at El Toro. 3rd autox for me, still on stock tires and suspension.

Took a bad line towards the end of the course in this one-

[ame]http://youtu.be/1bYosvBcVec[/ame]

Think I improved it here..

[ame]http://youtu.be/8t0OH55BJXY[/ame]

Really fun weekend, can't wait to get some camber bolts and Z2's.

[Sccabrz192]

Originally Posted by dwx

I drove one some time ago at an autocross. The issue with the car it is it's porky at >3000lbs, and the chassis isn't very good. It's horribly floppy and the car just doesn't feel right at an autocross. It feels like you are driving a 3500lb car. The motor is great though.

I wouldn't take one over a BRZ/FR-S and certainly not over a 370Z.

I'm sort of hoping the 370Z dominates at nationals and gets moved, but if Fenter's driving the NC Miata I'm not sure that's going to happen.

You thought it was that bad? I've driven a friend's 00 M Roadster a little while back and thought it was quite a good package. Certainly portly compared to the miata/86/RX-8 but significantly better on torque and lots of tire available from the stock wheel setup. The car is also narrower and shorter than the rest of the bunch, so it has that going for it as well. I've never driven the two back to back, or even in the same season for that matter. But I thought it had quite a bit of potential.

[vroom4]

I think Im going to finally break down and add some toe out to the front. Ive been running 0 toe all season, thinking my over driving was the cause of the complete lack of turn in.

Well, I drove my buddies cheater package miata and it turns right in even with severe over driving.

Guess Ill start with 1/8" total and leave the back at 0. Could probably benefit from a little toe in in the back, but I kind of like how much it rotates coming out of a fast section into a tight corner.

[7thgear]

Originally Posted by vroom4

I think Im going to finally break down and add some toe out to the front. Ive been running 0 toe all season, thinking my over driving was the cause of the complete lack of turn in.

Well, I drove my buddies cheater package miata and it turns right in even with severe over driving.

Guess Ill start with 1/8" total and leave the back at 0. Could probably benefit from a little toe in in the back, but I kind of like how much it rotates coming out of a fast section into a tight corner.

if this was a highschool science experiment you'd get an F for procedure alone...




toe out may help you, but don't expect to it handle like the Miata just from that little change.

[vroom4]

Im not saying oh I have to copy his setup, he actually has 0 toe. Im saying, holy crap, made me realize how bad my car turns in.