CSG and RCE tag-team suspension Q&A thread! Ask us anything!

[fooddude]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

Both can handle more spring than OTS; the nod to engineering goes to Ohlins. I don't know the exact range since we haven't done enough testing to determine, but I'd guess a +100 is viable for both, perhaps more.

I didn't mean "than OTS"..I meant, which could handle more? ..in the damper's original OTS state.

[solidONE]

Originally Posted by fooddude

I didn't mean "than OTS"..I meant, which could handle more? ..in the damper's original OTS state.

RCE Andy has posted dynos for both of the systems you are asking about. On this very thread I think. Do a search and you will see that the RCE T2 will offer you more damping and damping adjustment range therefor ability to accommodate different or higher sprig rates. than the Ohlins. Another thing to consider is one system is a twin tube (KW) and the other is a mono tube (Ohlins). Again the benefits and drawback of the two types are probably already covered in this very tread. While I have 0 experience with either system on this car, I think it's safe to assume that the Ohlins will offer better accuracy of the 2 while the KW's will offer a much broader range. But then you have to consider the independent adjustability of the KW 2-way can offer you in terms of tuning over the singles. Can't go wrong with either, IMO. Ask yourself what you value more in a coilover system, then pick your poison.


Whatever happened to wanting Fortune Auto dampers? lol

[Racecomp Engineering]

We ran them back to back. Street, track, backroads, suburbs, downtown, everything. Advantages to each of them but yes I'd say OTS you have more headroom with RCE T2s and the 2 way adjustability gives you an edge in dialing them in with stiffer springs than a 1 way. But Ohlins are Ohlins...fast, fun, and simple. We ran them stock and with 8k springs all around...they did well.

- Andy

[Malt]

Going in for another alignment tomorrow and I vaguely remember something about advantages/disadvantages to getting camber with camber plates vs camber bolts. Am I crazy or was there a benefit to using camber plates over the bolts?

[ayau]

Originally Posted by Malt

Going in for another alignment tomorrow and I vaguely remember something about advantages/disadvantages to getting camber with camber plates vs camber bolts. Am I crazy or was there a benefit to using camber plates over the bolts?

Yup, camber at the hub (crash bolt) is ideal because it doesn't change the steering angle inclination (SAI). However, you'll be limited to only about -1.5 max, which isn't enough if you're pretty serious about tracking the car. For more camber, you'll need camber plates.

[solidONE]

Originally Posted by ayau

Yup, camber at the hub (crash bolt) is ideal because it doesn't change the steering angle inclination (SAI). However, you'll be limited to only about -1.5 max, which isn't enough if you're pretty serious about tracking the car. For more camber, you'll need camber plates.

That is a lot of camber considering it's just stock crash bolt.

[Malt]

Originally Posted by solidONE

That is a lot of camber considering it's just stock crash bolt.

To be fair, I'm running RCE T2's which have a slotted top hole along with raceseng camber plates. I'm sure I can get all the camber I want from either choice, I just wanted to be sure I was telling the shop where I wanted the alignment performed at.

[Turkish]

Originally Posted by solidONE

That is a lot of camber considering it's just stock crash bolt.

Originally Posted by ayau

Yup, camber at the hub (crash bolt) is ideal because it doesn't change the steering angle inclination (SAI). However, you'll be limited to only about -1.5 max, which isn't enough if you're pretty serious about tracking the car. For more camber, you'll need camber plates.

I got -1.2 up front with just the crash bolts. I was pretty impressed with that.

[Malt]

Originally Posted by Racecomp Engineering

K. Not knowing much about using bolts to adjust camber in the rear and how much adjustment they have, I'd just be worried about you buying toe arms and then finding out that your camber bolts are maxed out anyway. Can you peek under and see if there is much adjustment in the bolts left?

- Andy

Semi old reply but info for those that are curious. Went in for the alignment this morning after I installed my toe arms and while it was on the rack the tech showed me the range of adjustment for the camber bolts in the rear. Roughly 0.3 degrees. So not enough to get the camber dialed in with the toe I wanted in the rear.

Let this be a lesson to those of you who lower your car. Don't cheap out and do everything to avoid buying lower control arms. I've spent well over twice what it would of cost me to just buy them now in alignments/parts that I didn't use or didn't work.

Buying LCA's now and finally going to put this to rest

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by Malt

Semi old reply but info for those that are curious. Went in for the alignment this morning after I installed my toe arms and while it was on the rack the tech showed me the range of adjustment for the camber bolts in the rear. Roughly 0.3 degrees. So not enough to get the camber dialed in with the toe I wanted in the rear.

Let this be a lesson to those of you who lower your car. Don't cheap out and do everything to avoid buying lower control arms. I've spent well over twice what it would of cost me to just buy them now in alignments/parts that I didn't use or didn't work.

Buying LCA's now and finally going to put this to rest

That's what I was afraid of. Thanks for updating!

- Andy

[enivid]

Originally Posted by ayau

Yup, camber at the hub (crash bolt) is ideal because it doesn't change the steering angle inclination (SAI). However, you'll be limited to only about -1.5 max, which isn't enough if you're pretty serious about tracking the car. For more camber, you'll need camber plates.

I got 1.5 with stock bolts. I'm going to switch to the crash bolts to get - 2.

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

[was385]

This is really for anyone with experience, including the RCE guys:


How big is the performance gap between a stock dampers/RCE Yellow setup and a Bilstein B8/RCE Tarmac setup? This would mainly be for autox (locally, never going to spend enough to be nationally competitive) and the occasional track day as well as DD duty. I'm trying to decide if it's worth the cost to jump up to the next level.

[Turkish]

Originally Posted by was385

This is really for anyone with experience, including the RCE guys:


How big is the performance gap between a stock dampers/RCE Yellow setup and a Bilstein B8/RCE Tarmac setup? This would mainly be for autox (locally, never going to spend enough to be nationally competitive) and the occasional track day as well as DD duty. I'm trying to decide if it's worth the cost to jump up to the next level.

I will say, that completely OE to B8/Tarmac I have LESS problems bottoming out in dips in the road. Steep driveways and really tall speed bumps present the usual challenge for lowered cars. I realize that this doesn't necessarily answer your question, but the stiffer shocks and springs really firmed up the driving, at the expense of a touch of bounciness.

[was385]

Originally Posted by Turkish

I will say, that completely OE to B8/Tarmac I have LESS problems bottoming out in dips in the road. Steep driveways and really tall speed bumps present the usual challenge for lowered cars. I realize that this doesn't necessarily answer your question, but the stiffer shocks and springs really firmed up the driving, at the expense of a touch of bounciness.

I'll be going into a purchase blind based on what I read on the internet so any and all first-hand experiences are very useful even if they're not exactly what I asked. Thanks.