Full Blown Turbo Kit Owners Topic

[mike the snake]

I'm running the Crawford AOS but it is set up for VTA.

The Full Blown intake doesn't have the fitting for where the hose from the catch can would normally go, so I just have a small filter on the can. Any oil produced still goes back into the engine.

This is the best of both worlds IMO.

[Reaper]

maybe im visualizing this wrong but...but there is still the chance of condensation in the crawford. They ened up running coolant lines to the WRX version because of this. The can gets hot with oil vapors then cools after you shut it down and it can suck in moisture now thats its acting as a VTA. Then that moisture drains back into the engine.

[Ironsquid]

Originally Posted by King Tut

I could have saved you all that time. 7 to 8 inches is way too close for it not to cause issues. Remember it isn't the air coming in that is causing the issue, it is the turbulance of the air and it not being pulled straight across the MAF sensor. No different than the turbulance created by a poor MAF placement on a curvy piece of pipe.

A lot of people don't even know what a MAF actually does and why it needs to be a straight flow column of air with zero disruption.

For those that want to know. It's typically a 5v wire sensor that measures the resistance (in this case airflow) of the heated wire exposed to the intake air volume. Certain metals will cause resistance in voltage based on the temperature of the wire. So the ECU can now "see" airflow based on voltage - minus resistance. This is a very precise measurement of airflow.

[ame="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thermal_resistance"]Thermal resistance - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia[/ame]


So imagine now a heated exposed wire in your intake, the airflow blows across it to cool it down, the more airflow the cooler the wire gets and the least amount of resistance, less airflow the wire becomes hotter and causes more resistance. Again this is a very precise method of measuring airflow.

Therefor any slight curve, or angle of position not suited for this type of precision measurement will cause your MAF tuning to be wrong and hard to dial in. Also any disruption in airflow will also cause havoc. It is recommended in the industry to have a minimum of 12 inches of undisrupted airflow prior to the MAF sensor and the sensor must be mounted in an upright position to avoid water condensation. This means you can't put a blowoff valve flange closer than 12 inches either, even if it is a straight pipe it's still a disruption in airflow.

For example if you were to measure FBM intake pipe prior to the MAF, it's longer than 12 inches before the first bend AND blowoff valve flange. The MAF is mounted vertically, straight, and with no rotational angle.

[mike the snake]

The Crawford can for the BRZ/FRS does not have the coolant lines, it's just a straight AOS/catch can. It runs oil back into the engine, and may or may not run the vent from the can to the intake.

Originally Posted by Reaper

maybe im visualizing this wrong but...but there is still the chance of condensation in the crawford. They ened up running coolant lines to the WRX version because of this. The can gets hot with oil vapors then cools after you shut it down and it can suck in moisture now thats its acting as a VTA. Then that moisture drains back into the engine.

[Reaper]

Originally Posted by mike the snake

The Crawford can for the BRZ/FRS does not have the coolant lines, it's just a straight AOS/catch can. It runs oil back into the engine, and may or may not run the vent from the can to the intake.

Yes. I know. They had to do it on the wrx.

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[Reaper]

factory fans put in.

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[Dipstik-sportech]

I assume you relocated the rad?

The Frozen North

[mike the snake]

Ahhh, I see what you were saying.

Originally Posted by Reaper

Yes. I know. They had to do it on the wrx.

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[Reaper]

I removed the upper mounts and pushed it all the way forward until it touched the corner of the headlights. Then made a little bracket.


I had to trim the sides of the factory fan shroud but that was just out of convenience since I just fixed a manifold leak and didn't want to remove the exhaust manifold again. I touches a redundant support as you can see in the picture but I doubt its a fire/melting hazard. My air filter also had to be shimmed out since the top of the AC condenser hits the bottom of it pretty good.

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[John Rambo]

Sorry if this has been brought up already, but has anyone had issues with the slim fans that come with the base kit breaking? I only have a few hundred miles on the kit and they seem to have broken, and I wanted to know if it's a common thing before I talk to full blown...

Edit: found my answer a few pages back...

[Reaper]

yup that's my stock fans in the picture above....because my slims died and I needed to get the car somewhere.

[carlossanchez89]

Originally Posted by Reaper

yup that's my stock fans in the picture above....because my slims died and I needed to get the car somewhere.

Upgrade your spal fans and make a custom heatshield for the motors. thats what I did. I can send u pictures if youd like.

[Reaper]

Stock fans work awsome. And are free.

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[blackfireball5]

Originally Posted by carlossanchez89

Upgrade your spal fans and make a custom heatshield for the motors. thats what I did. I can send u pictures if youd like.

I'd be interested to see what you did.

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