Looking for new pad suggestions.

[wparsons]

At my last track day I noticed some smearing of pad compound on the rotors, and they were smoking after a couple sessions. I didn't get serious pad fade, but they definitely lost some bite. Now I'm looking for another pad that'll take a bit more heat, but have similar initial bite and pedal feel as what I currently have.

I'm currently running Ferodo DS2500's and have zero complaints, just need more heat capacity now. Does anyone have suggestions for what will feel the same (or similar)?

I'm considering Carbotech XP8's, something in the Winmax range or Ferodo DS3500's, but am totally open to suggestions.

The car is primarily a street car, and does see a lot of street miles (I'm at just over 65k km's, took delivery mid July 2012). I'd prefer to not be swapping pads, but if there aren't any daily tolerable pads that'll take the heat then I'll have to consider that.

I'm also not running any ducting yet (it's on the to-do list, but I'm a slacker), would a good ducting solution (touge factory) drop temps enough to keep the 2500's happy?

[CSG Mike]

It's time to graduate to a race pad.

I'd recommend Carbotech XP10, or Project Mu Club Racers. Both of these pads are proven to make minimal noise, once properly bedded in.

You'll have a similar experience to your DS2500 with other "hybrid" pads.

[wparsons]

How's the feel and bite on the XP10's or club racers? Ideally I want something that is very similar in bite and pedal feel.

[speargunsandracecars]

http://www.essexparts.com/shop/brake...-pads-162.html

Take a look at the CL RC5+ pads. They're sintered pads much like the ones found on sportbikes. I had them on all 4 corners of my old DD/AutoX/Track NC MX5. They are absolutely THE BEST pads I've ever had on any car. They provide the same stopping power in the dry and and wet. Worked amazingly in freezing temps as well. Stopping power is akin to having a BBK, without having a BBK. Pedal feel is firm and easy to modulate. Maximum operating temp is above 1800 F. I don't believe I've ever reached that. You'll have to run racing brake fluids. And despite the incredibly high temperatures, I have never boiled my brake fluid. I have never had any hint of fade. Ever. Initial bite is similar to stock pads, and progressively and predictably provides more stopping power as you push the pedal harder. Getting it to temps is easy and takes absolutely no time. 2 or 3 hard stops from 40-60 MPH will get them to near ideal operating temps. And the fronts lasted me a good 25,000 miles. The rears were still above half. And absolutely no bedding in required.

Cons:
Price. But for a dual duty track/street pad, I couldn't imagine anything better for the price.

Dust. Can be a little dusty on street and track use. I just said F it and stopped washing my wheels.

Noise. It doesn't squeal as bad as semi-metallic pads. When it does, it actually isn't too bad. The only times it really squealed on me were when it was really cold outside and when the pads were low. Also, since it's essentially a full metallic pad, it shrinks a little when cold. You may hear some thunk noises coming from the brakes until you get it up to temps when it expands and the thunking noise disappears.

Rotor wear. Since it is a full metallic pad, there will be a little more rotor wear than other pads. In 25,000 miles of use, the pads ate through about 1.5-2MM of rotor surface on the fronts.

Heat radiation. The pads get the brake system hot. You can feel the heat radiating from the wheel well after hard runs.

I suggest looking in to these pads. There are even more hardcore pads such as the RC6 full race and RC6E endurance pads.

I plan on putting a set of front and rears on my BRZ in the near future.

[RehabJeff86]

I run PMu 999 cant be happier


Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkfQ

[Doozer]

Previously we used Ferodo. Now CL-5+ for daily driver and track days.

Races we use CL-6 but very noisy

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by wparsons

How's the feel and bite on the XP10's or club racers? Ideally I want something that is very similar in bite and pedal feel.

All race pads will have substantially more bite, and also respond more to modulation (more sensitivity).

Going from street pads to race pads is a one way street... once you drive on race pads, you won't want to drive on street pads.

I daily drive on Project Mu 999.

[dradernh]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

It's time to graduate to a race pad.

Originally Posted by wparsons

Ideally I want something that is very similar in bite and pedal feel.

I wonder if the Ferodo DS1.11 isn't the pad you're looking for, assuming it's tolerable under DD conditions; pads from the same manufacturer frequently have similar bite & release characteristics:

Originally Posted by wparsons

I'm also not running any ducting yet...

Definitely time to schedule that.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by dradernh

I wonder if the Ferodo DS1.11 isn't the pad you're looking for, assuming it's tolerable under DD conditions; pads from the same manufacturer frequently have similar bite & release characteristics:

That's an enduro pad... I wouldn't recommend it for street use at all. Within Ferodo, DS3000 or DSUNO would be a better match.

[Dezoris]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

All race pads will have substantially more bite, and also respond more to modulation (more sensitivity).

Going from street pads to race pads is a one way street... once you drive on race pads, you won't want to drive on street pads.

I daily drive on Project Mu 999.

I could never pull that off or I would do the same. After mowing through 7 different pad option, including the DS2500s and DSUno. I have to run a dedicated street pad and track pad. My favorite combo has become the Carbotech 1521s for street and PMU999 for track by a large margin.

You can actually get heat in the 1521s for situation like autox, or panic stops on street.

[dradernh]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

That's an enduro pad... I wouldn't recommend it for street use at all. Within Ferodo, DS3000 or DSUNO would be a better match.

Is there a way to understand that just by looking at the chart (e.g., the high Mu at low temps)? The data make the 3000 & UNO look like they would be very similar on the track - is this the case?

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by dradernh

Is there a way to understand that just by looking at the chart (e.g., the high Mu at low temps)? The data make the 3000 & UNO look like they would be very similar on the track - is this the case?

Unfortunately not; you'd have to dig a big deeper into the compound and metalurgy.

Feel free to mention me in any post with a @CSG Mike. If I don't know off the top of my head, I can probably get the research done for you, and so that I can answer future questions for other people

[husker741]

Playtex?

Oh shit, wrong forum and wrong kind..

[gramicci101]

Originally Posted by husker741

Playtex?

Oh shit, wrong forum and wrong kind..

What are you even doing on those forums in the first place?