Dezoris | FR-S Build | Supercharged & More

[Dezoris]

Essex Parts Tour and Interviews

[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vz8usUhhzgQ"]Brake Tech and Interviews | AP Racing Essex | SE0203 - YouTube[/ame]

Most of us who enjoy a performance car usually have to deal with some type of brake upgrade or at the very least pad changes for autox and track.




SUPPORT

After spending the past 10 years with sporty cars one thing I absolutely have to say is that no matter what brand or product you are loyal to, when it comes to key components on your car once you modify them your warranty is long gone.





One of the critical things to choosing a brand or product is that you can get help, replacement parts and tech support with minimal BS.

Essex is the North American Distributor for AP Racing products which is actually owned by Brembo. However AP Racing operates completely separate much like how Hyundai and Kia do. They even compete with each other. The difference is they share technical resources, which is why you will see Brembo dust boots on an AP Caliper.

Much like our trip to Ohlins, we found your product is only as good as your support network. As it relates to this platform a majority of the key players on this forum run AP Racing brakes and the one major reason for it is because they work and have some of the cheapest consumables and pad choices.

For example if you happened to be at a track weekend, and realized on Friday you had a cracked rotor or a caliper failure, you could call Essex and they could have you parts shipped to the track next day or to your hotel with no drama. They have the stock and parts to make sure you don't sit with the car parked for a week or two waiting on parts from over seas.





This sometimes can be the case with more esoteric kits from brands like Alcon or Project Mu. The bottom line is a place like Essex has a long standing history of supporting race teams in America and have been around for a long time. This is not some internet drop ship establishment that disappears in 2 years.

Even though Essex is the distributor you can also get these parts from credible vendors on this site like CounterSpace Garage, RaceCompEngineering and get full support from them.





BURNISHING/BEDDING SERVICE

One area we saw that was unique to Essex was a computer controlled burnishing machine. Its for customers who want their pads and rotors pre-bedded before they use them. They place the rotor of your choice on a machine with the pads you will use, and run it through a series of computer controlled bedding. The result is a perfected bedded pad a rotor set they ship to you so all you have to do is put it on your car and start lapping. The service was between $50-$75 per rotor.





CHOOSING A KIT

The biggest thing to walk away from when choosing brakes for this car or any car is to know exactly what you are actually going to be doing.

WINTER AND COLD CLIMATE ISSUES

The other massive consideration is climate, if you are choosing a big brake kit, and see cold climates with road salt you can count on having to remove the brakes in the winter to avoid destroying the finish/caliper or seals. Even if you choose a street caliper with a power coated finish you will likely have a two piece rotor. As soon as that road salt gets in between that iron disk and aluminum hat it starts to corrode the hardware and hat. Again with all performance parts we have the fine print you have to deal with.





Pad choices carry similar trade offs:

"There is no unicorn brake pad that will have a 2000F operating range that will also be usable on the street."






CONCLUSION

If you are in the market for a brake upgrade the best thing to do is talk to people about brakes for your platform who actually have experience with on the track and street. Places like Essex have massive experience with multiple platforms. Companies like CSG have the practical experience on the 86 platform. And people like use try and gather information from multiple sources to show different perspectives.

Between all of this drivers should be able to make a more educated choice on what will work and what the trade offs are before dumping money on something that may not work for your needs.

"Remember there is no magic bullet for all climates and all drivers in the world of brakes."

[Dezoris]

Radium Strut Brace
Install and Review

VIDEO DIY
[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AOfcKqJYYMc"]Scion FR-S BRZ Radium Strut Bar Install Review | S02E04 - YouTube[/ame]


Install Instructions:
http://data.radiumauto.com/PublicDocs/19-0071.PDF

_________________________________________________

The truth is I have not installed a strut tower brace since I had my 90s Civic. That bar was a complete joke, pivot points and the fastest color possible. (yellow)

That $60 piece of junk was nothing more than something to fool myself into thinking the car was somehow a Fast and the Furious showcase car.

Fast forward maybe 17 years and here I am with my first strut tower brace since then.







INSTALLATION: (See Video)

Installation instructions included are about as good as you can get. Included are torque values for all fasteners and helpful hints written in plain English. However I did run into a few minor issues I put in the video and also emailed Radium to update. But overall this will be a straight forward 25 minute or less process with very little drama.

TOOLS NEEDED:

• 19MM OPEN END WRENCH
• TQ WRENCH | 10-50lbs
• 4MM ALLEN SOCKET
• 6MM ALLEN SOCKET OR 6MM ALLEN HEAD WRENCH
  
• 12 MM SOCKET, SOCKET WRENCH AND SHORT EXTENSION
• ADJUSTABLE WRENCH OR ALUMINUM WRENCH (OPTIONAL)
  

AREAS OF CAUTION:

• If when tightening large countersink bolt, using caution near battery terminal.
• DO NOT jack up car when installing bar and removing 12mm strut mount bolts.
• Hand tighten 4mm allen screws don't trust consumer torque wrenches at 10lbs as you may strip these bolts easily.
• Bar does not fit cars with Innovate Supercharger, with or without IC.
• Bar does does not fit with cars that have their hood prop rod relocated to fender, prop rod has to be removed. (Vortech Cars.)

ADJUSTING PRE-LOAD:

This is the first bar of it's type for the FRS/BRZ with pre-load adjustment.

Now at the price point this adds some value for those looking to tune out chassis flex from extreme lowering or very hard core track suspension.


You rotate the bar with the locking nuts loose which moves the rod ends towards the corner of the car which exerts pressure against the shock towers, pre-loading force on them. Which depending on your application could potentially remove the load already placed on the towers from lowering or high spring rates. Alternatively this could help reduce more extreme flexing from track cars.


The reality it's not much use for the common man or woman with more stockish cars.


But Radium radium assumes this will be installed on more performance oriented vehicles.




PRICE POINT AND OVERALL IMPRESSIONS:


Radium does not design products to a price point. With that said it's the most expensive strut bar for the car. GrimmSpeed, FT86SpeedFactory and Perrin all make solid bars with no Pivot Points which are cheaper alternatives. There are plenty if cheap strut bars around the $150 price point however don't be fooled as they have those pivot mounting points which make them glorified appearance pieces.


I think Radium did a good job designing a bar with a few extra features like pre-load adjustment and also a higher height so you can get at your map sensor if needed. So in this regard it may be worth it for more users with modified setups.


This big issue becomes is all this worth the extra cash for most buyers?






PROS

• Excellent built quality
• Made and engineered in USA
• Adjustable Pre-Load
• Extended Height for access to MAP and IM.
• Top notch documentation including TQ values.
• Good Support

CONS

• Price.
• Shape interferes with prop rod relocation on some FI cars.
• Can't access camber plates without removal.

[Dezoris]

Perrin Oil Cooler Install Tips and Tricks

What is a thermostatic oil cooler setup?

Its a liquid to air cooler that uses a thermostatic plate to mechanically control oil flow to an oil cooler. The thermostat inside this sandwich plate can open at a specified temperature to allow full oil flow to the cooler. Most of these plates go full open at 185F. Although this depends on manufacturer, also the thermostats and plates can be custom ordered.

THERMOSTATIC SANDWICH PLATE BY MOCAL (185F FULL OPEN)


PERRIN MOCAL PLATE FILTER AND LINES INSTALLED:










Why do I need an oil cooler?

The short answer is the FRS/BRZ/GT86 in stock unmodified form tend to have higher oil temperature when the vehicle is run hard on track or autox, and tends to have very slow temperature recovery times Running forced induction means you need to keep the oil at normal levels 170-220F on 0w20 oil for street driving. That can be very hard to do in hot climates or those who tear through the gears often.

If you drive this car on the track with the Vortech kit without an oil cooler your oil temps will reach near dangerous levels within 10-15 minutes. 270F+. From most research after the past year optimal track oil temps are 220-250F (265F being the acceptable upper limit)

What thermostatic oil coolers fit?

• Perrin Oil Cooler with some minor modifications.
• Full Blown Oil Cooler with cooler bracket mods
• Mishimoto with more serious bracket modifications

Tips and Tricks for making the oil cooler lines fit properly:


If you are running a thermostatic kit the biggest problem is line clearance over the Vortech airbox bracket, ABS module, airbox, headlamp assembly and bumper beam.

VORTECH BRACKET TOUCHING OIL LINES:

• During or after Vortech install remove drivers side headlamp by removing the four 10mm bolts and one clip on top of headlight.
• The Vortech instructions call for you to grind off the wiring harness bracket off the headlamp, removing the headlamp allows you to completely remove it and save headaches later.
• Remove headlamp and completely remove bracket pictured:

• Removing plastic will allow for more discharge pipe clearance and oil line clearance.
• Grind down Airbox bracket as pictured to allow for more oil line clearance to prevent cutting lines

• Sand and grind brackets smooth and repaint with black high temp paint if so desired.

• This is a great time to check your down pipe position and adjust it on bracket to make sure it had clearance by the bumper beam as well.

Tips and Tricks line and AN Fittings:

• Buy aluminum AN wrenches as they are softer and will not destroy the fittings having these in your arsenal will ensure you can pretty much handle all AN fittings on oil lines as well as catch can and other specialty fittings you will likely deal with.
• Buy a GOOD bag of zip ties with high and low temp ranges usually made in America and more expensive, these will not get brittle and break from the underhood heat or winter cold like the cheap zip ties.

Set of 5 AN Wrenches:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003BZLLUE/ref=oh_details_o08_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Adjustable AN Wrench:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003BZR6E4/ref=oh_details_o08_s01_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

• Running Oil lines down the bumper and making it clean and tidy can be easy. The issue is attaching the AN fittings to the threads on the plate and the cooler.

• When attaching the lines to the cooler adjust the lines so when you thread the fittings on that they thread very easy with no effort, this may require you to keep pulling the lines so that there is very little pressure on the line so they continue to thread with no resistance, this can be challenging but is critical to a good seal.

• Once the fitting thread smoothly by hand, tighten them by hand as hard as you can.

• The lines at the sandwich plate can be very frustrating, while insuring the lines are not pressed against the ABS unit, Vortech airbox or bracket.

• Make sure your fittings are positioned as pictured:

• Once positioned again hand screw fittings onto threads and make sure they screw easily, if you feel resistance they are not threading smoothly, back off, adjust line and try and re-thread. This maybe very difficult as you need to keep adjust line to adjust angle.

• Once threaded smoothly, hand tighten as hard as you can and check all clearances.

• Take your AN aluminum wrenches and tighten until they feel tight then snug another 1/4 turn, you don't have to go very tight.

• When you do the starting procedure as instructed the vendor make sure you allow time for the oil temp to reach the temp of the plate. If the plate goes full open at 185F wait for it to reach 185F and check for leaks at all the fittings.

• If possible safely drive the car with the bumper off temporarily to check for leaks after before re-installing bumper, will save you major pain in ass.

• Carefully run your fingers under fittings at sandwich plate for oil leaks after car cools.

FINAL TIPS AND ADVICE:

• Thermostatic oil coolers always have oil flow to the oil cooler to prevent air lock according to Mocal. So your oil will not get up to temperature as fast as the liquid/oem style coolers.
• Winters weather requires monitoring of oil temps, cold oil is just as bad as hot oil. If your oil take over 10 minute to get above 110F, consider disconnecting sandwich plate or blocking off the front air dam. Disconnecting plate requires plugs in oil lines to prevent leaks of residual oil or debris:

• Oil coolers in the front grill can be damaged by rocks or debris. Keep an eye on it for leaks.

• Liquid to air coolers with external lines raise risk of leaks if there is a failure.

• Install Oil Pressure gauge for help with early warnings of pressure drop.

WARNINGS AND EFFECTS OF LEAKS

1. Oil will pool on bypass valve if plate is leaking.
2. Oil will pool on skid plate




3. Oil can contact drive belt
4. Oil can cause fire if enough collects on exhaust
5. Oil can leak out of skid plate and coat tires and cause loss of control

[Dezoris]

Oil Pressuring Testing Part 1


Interesting initial data collection, its clear oil temp plays a major roll in pressures.

0W20 Redline (Fresh Change)
IDLE OIL PRESSURES

175F = 19PSI


190F = 15PSI



198F = 11PSI



210F = 9PSI

[thill]

Man you have some great stuff in here. Awesome job.

[Gopherboy6956]

Quick Question -

I have my Vortech Kit on Order. I have already acquired the Perrin Oil cooler. I will get a Radiator and Catch cans or AOS.

I am going to install everything at once. Any tips for installing all of that together?

Thanks!

[wootwoot]

Any chance you can measure your clearance from strut bar to engine cover? Curious if it would work with Crawford power blocks...?

[kiichiro]

Originally Posted by Dezoris

In stock for it barely made any power. It's pretty, looks nice but for 1k, hard to justify. (headerback)

Cool thread

I simply removed the bracket that interferes with oil path
My car tracks just fine without it FYI air box stays where it should be

If you don't put a header in front of it's hard to justify. Once you go catless header it makes total sense tho.

Oil pressure in my ride varies relative to temp and it will vary more as you use different oil cooler setups. Adding the robispec oil water cooler was awesome for me in my climate, hotter the oil lower the off track idle pressure so keep an eye on that, don't shut down just after a hot lap.

Fwiw near 100 psi on cold startup presented some challenge for my oil fed setup but thanks to Jeff Perrin and the in line restrictor he sent me it's fine now.

[Roxy86]

Nice reviews...

I literally spent like 2.5 hours skimming.

[Dezoris]

Originally Posted by wootwoot

Any chance you can measure your clearance from strut bar to engine cover? Curious if it would work with Crawford power blocks...?

Yes PM me if I don't post back tomorrow.

[Dezoris]

Originally Posted by kiichiro

Cool thread

I simply removed the bracket that interferes with oil path
My car tracks just fine without it FYI air box stays where it should be

If you don't put a header in front of it's hard to justify. Once you go catless header it makes total sense tho.

Oil pressure in my ride varies relative to temp and it will vary more as you use different oil cooler setups. Adding the robispec oil water cooler was awesome for me in my climate, hotter the oil lower the off track idle pressure so keep an eye on that, don't shut down just after a hot lap.

Fwiw near 100 psi on cold startup presented some challenge for my oil fed setup but thanks to Jeff Perrin and the in line restrictor he sent me it's fine now.

Yeah pressures are high on cold starts, saw almost 120PSI this morning. And I noticed pressures very low during idle at around 8-9 PSI after oil was hot. But lets face it, a stock car would have the same issue so it has to be designed that way. But it is alarming. Perrin is a great group and team very grateful to them for support.

I have to use the bracket for the discharge pipe or mine starts banging around on the bumper beam, tried it already. I am sure I could bracket it in the wheel well but, tired of ****ing with things.

Why is your car apart you building motor? Are you still using Pentosin?

[Dezoris]

Originally Posted by Gopherboy6956

Quick Question -

I have my Vortech Kit on Order. I have already acquired the Perrin Oil cooler. I will get a Radiator and Catch cans or AOS.

I am going to install everything at once. Any tips for installing all of that together?

Thanks!

Break up the install to like 2-3 days if possible. Take the time to do the detail work properly, like adjusting the pipes and moving things around where you have zero clearance issues, things you would rush through if you try and do it in one day.

Thinks like the washer fluid tube, make sure your hose clamp is not digging into frame while also making sure its not rubbing on your oil line or discharge pipe like mine was here:




Also another little thing is to make sure you don't over tighten that hose clamp on the washer fluid neck because anything more than even remotely snug will crush it like pictured and will leak, something not mentioned in instructions:



My oil cooler thread above has some tips on how to get clearance and install. Get your catch cans first so you can do all the hose work right away its much easier that way namely the breather tube, and so you have to cut the PCV hose so its better to do the PCV can right away.

I don't believe in the Crawford AOS it separates the unburned fuel and blown by oil and dumps it back into the block, which will help to contaminate oil on a street car. The two cans I recommend are
Saikou Michi and Radium, as they are pressure tested for boost etc.


Finally when you change SC oil, the easiest way I found to get the right amount without ****ing around was to leave one bottle laying around at the level it took to get the dipstick at the middle mark. So when I drain and refill, I just fill to the bottle was at the level of my tester bottle as pictured.

[kiichiro]

Love my pentosin, it's in both cars

Car is fine
I'm at the track this weekend

I'm think I gonna commit to a full build up soon motor wise. Yeah, I think that makes one of them a keeper, let me figure out the heat management thing a bit better before I really put money where mouth is.

[Dezoris]

Originally Posted by wootwoot

Any chance you can measure your clearance from strut bar to engine cover? Curious if it would work with Crawford power blocks...?

Here you go from the higher point of the manifold pictured and the top cover.